Thoughts on my first airbrush setup

T

Toxic_Chem

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Paasche talon airbrush tg2l

Compressor badger tc910 aspire pro
 
If you want some input on this please also post what you want to use it for. There have been some more posts about starting equipment have a look at those as there is a lot of information there:thumbsup:
 
If you want some input on this please also post what you want to use it for. There have been some more posts about starting equipment have a look at those as there is a lot of information there:thumbsup:

And tell us if you are asking us or telling us what you plan to buy, if your looking for feedback we need to know what you think you need to know, I.E. maybe insert a question mark or be specific.
 
Oh I'm sorry im planning on buying these both, I'll be doing both automotive and paper
 
I was also thinking of the badger 105 patriot but chicagoairbrushsuppy.com is out of them, I would love to hear any all all opinions sorry my first post wasn't too detailed it was in the middle of the night my apologys, I'm really wanting to get into small automotive work and of course some paper, I really can't afford two brushes at this time but it may be an option in the near future, I'll be airbrushing paper way before automotive because I need to practice and get good at it before I go and paint someone's pride and joy, thank you all in advance!
 
Now we have a good idea of what you want to do you will get better advice.

I'm not familiar with the pasch but I hear good things about the badger, you are obviously looking for good all rounder, I think the badger suits your purpose as would the Iwata HP-C.

Your compressor choice seems fine.

I'm sure someone else will help you better over the pasch.
 
Do you know any other reliable suppliers with he badger 105 in stock , for a reasonable price? And thank you for your response
 
Do you know any other reliable suppliers with he badger 105 in stock , for a reasonable price? And thank you for your response

You are welcome:)

Where are you in the world, your location helps others to know where to send you, I don't have any badgers myself so don't really know the suppliers, but there are many here who do so I think you'll hear from them soon, have you tried amazon or eBay?
 
Yes I've tried both but they're msrp, I'm in Tennessee in the us, I've seen one at active powersports no idea if they're legitimate or not
 
I'm stuck! Either the badger 105 or the Iwata hp-c like a $50 difference for me I'm using a discount for the iwata of course
 
If you are going automotive then get a compressor with at least a 5 gallon tank. Bad thing about studio compressor is that they over heat if you try and do to much at one time.
 
This compressor has a tank, I'm not going to be doing big peices of automotive
 
But thank you for the information, if I want to do big automotive peices in the future, now that I know I'll buy a bigger compressor, as for now I'm going to stick to tanks and fenders and such on motorcycles! I'm stuck between brushes the talon, badger 105 pat, or the iwata hp-c
 
Don't know anything about that compressor, but a couple of thoughts. I read a review saying it kicks in every 3 -5 mins at 20 psi, so I would assume that spraying anything at higher psi would cause it to refill quicker, as it's oiless it's possible that may cause overheating. As a rule i spray at 20psi or less, (I do bikes, so similar to what you intend), but some spray at higher than that as their usual psi. And occasionally due to conditions or paint used, or effect wanted, I go higher, and like to go higher to clean the gun. Also you would have to be meticulous about emptying any water from the tank as that will obviously leave less room for air meaning it will empty and refill quicker, and risk overheating. It sounds good apart from that, nice and quiet etc, but if they have one with a slightly bigger tank I would go for that, it may suit you just as it is, but I would want a bit of wriggle room.
 
Don't know anything about that compressor, but a couple of thoughts. I read a review saying it kicks in every 3 -5 mins at 20 psi, so I would assume that spraying anything at higher psi would cause it to refill quicker, as it's oiless it's possible that may cause overheating. As a rule i spray at 20psi or less, (I do bikes, so similar to what you intend), but some spray at higher than that as their usual psi. And occasionally due to conditions or paint used, or effect wanted, I go higher, and like to go higher to clean the gun. Also you would have to be meticulous about emptying any water from the tank as that will obviously leave less room for air meaning it will empty and refill quicker, and risk overheating. It sounds good apart from that, nice and quiet etc, but if they have one with a slightly bigger tank I would go for that, it may suit you just as it is, but I would want a bit of wriggle room.
Thank you man! Great advise, there are currently no bigger compressors in my price range unfortunately, I will of course upgrade in the near future, as of right now I'll be mainly practicing and getting into the hobby as a whole, I've found one for about 265 with a 6gallon tank, I need it to be quiet for now until I buy my new house (fiancé will cut my throat with the airbrush if not) thank you for your response! And I can't wait to start airbrushing bikes, always been a dream of mine
 
Well there is always the option of fitting an additional tank later at some point if you find you need to. I believe you can get 7 litre ones, and if you look on youtube there are a few vids about them, although there are questions about how to drain moisture from them, I think many people do this.

It's a great feeling when you get a bike painted. Can't beat it. It took me way longer than I thought to get to the point i felt confident enough to do a good job, but well worth all the effort.
 
What are some of the paint brands you use while painting bikes and also what's a good paint to practice with?
 
I use waterbased paint for artwork and Like Wicked by Createx. But everyone has their faves. I like it because it is lightfast, and the colours in the trans paints (which they call detail) pop nicely when cleared. I recommend the W500 reducer for all the benefits it says in the description, which IMO is great for automotive - it doesn't reduce with water as some other paints do. (and I think it benefits from filtering which some people don't like about it). I clear over it with 2k, which is fuel resistant so good for bikes.

As for practicing, well I really recommend starting as you mean to go on whatever brand you choose, even if you just get one colour, as otherwise you will find you will get used to it, and then when you switch it will behave differently. (although different colours within the same brands of many paints can still vary slightly in how they perform due to pigments used,) For that reason I also recommend getting either some old tanks or something to practise on, or at least some metal panels prepped in an automotive basecoat. A hard surface is less forgiving, and more prone to spidering, so it's good to get used to using the surface you mean to work on later. Once you've got that down you can apply that to most any other surface, but it's not always the same the other way around, it may take some adjustment to go from paper to metal - but that's just my opinion. If you want to start out on paper then make sure it isn't too absorbant, something with a shinier surface will be closer to what you intend to do later.
 
Thank you Agian for the awsome advice! Now I'm stuck in a little delima, Which brush would you recommend honestly, the badger 105 patriot, the pashee talon, or the iwata hp-c
 
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