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trying out automotive paints

Discussion in 'Airbrush Paints' started by neil villanueva, Mar 20, 2017.


  1. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    planning on trying diff kinds of paint - AUTOMOTIVE to be exact, correct me if im wrong.... but my understanding is when you say AUTOMOTIVE PAINT - its all SOLVENT BASE - (laquer, etc)... this will be my first time to venture to the realms of SOLVENT base paints.... im goin to need all the advices and tips i can have.... here are a few questions i had in mind

    • can i use LAQUER THINNER as a reducer for URETHANE paints?
    • whats the recomended PSI when working with this paints?
    • i love the gloss finish that automotive paints has, it adds dept, are all paints in this category has that kind of finish?

    pls understand that i dont have the luxury of having the brands always mention here ( createx, HOK, wicked, etc) ill be purchasing /mixing / prepping my own paint, and will be bought from one of a local auto paint shop here, if theres any mis info on my side pls be free to correct me...

    thanks and godspeed
  2. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    where are you located???

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  3. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Hey Neil. First of where in the world are you :) Someone may be able to recommend a good supplier, not just for paint, but spares, accessories etc.

    Second, what kind of painting are you hoping to do, and on what surface.

    As for using auto paint, from a health point of view, are you set up for it? Its not kind on the lungs at all, and is just all round dangerous, which is why sprayers wear full suits, gloves and respirators. You are going to need a well ventilated place, ideally with fans and filters. Also check your local laws as there maybe environmental legislation re pollution of water tables etc.

    You can reduce with lacquer thinner, but again this is nasty stuff, so you will need proper protection. Ask your paint shop if they have a water based option., or if they can get it. I'm in the UK and know a few places that use it here, and its becoming more popular as laws change.

    The deep shine of automotive is down to good prep and good quality 2k clear, then if needed buffing and polishing. You will want this for both Uro and water based paints, but again, you need the right set up. Some people who don't have the facilities to clear, go to a shop for this stage.

    So yes its do-able, but you need to be careful, and also have the right space to do it. A garage attached to your house for example is not good as fumes will get into the house.

    Hopefully someone can recommend a supplier with better options. I have to get all my stuff online, but if you are prepared to mix colours yourself, you can buy as little a 5 colours and make almost any thing you need. It's how I started and I only use 8 even now.
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
  4. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    hi nickkat1 first of all thanks for finaly answering, i was loosing hope no one would notice

    im from the philippines.... one of the rural provinces of it.... all i have here as my paints are ACRYLIC LATEX and the one ill be trying on - URETHANE paints... thats why im so interested in mastering this type of paint (urethane)
  5. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    well what I can tell you is to try and find a system! Inspire is a solvent based paint...you are very close to Australia which means you can also get DNA paint! I would caution you against mixing and matching this and that from this company or that company! These paints are very expensive (the inspire not so much) and to have a bad reaction and ruin a piece of art work because you were playing chemist is a hard way to learn.

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  6. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    :D ----> whoa.. never realize that it would be a turn around for my work place as my lil studio is located inside my house with ventilation yes... but i dont think it can handle such....

    BTW - you mention, theres another type of automotive paint that is waterbased?..... did i get that right? interesting.....
  7. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    [​IMG]

    this is a water based kandy under a 2 part clear since you mentioned shine. the paint isn't inherently shiny it's the clear

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  8. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    ---> thanks NICKKAT1 i;ll keepthis in mind ;)
  9. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    never in the house!!!!

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  10. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    fisrt - thats awesome artwork there, second - is that ok.... i mean ill be using acrylic paint(or whatever waterbase paint) then clear it up with the type of clear used in automotives? and third what do you mean by 2K CLEAR / 2 PART CLEAR? .... is that the same as CLEAR COAT or TOP COAT?

    sorry for asking too many questions..... is just now that i only had a chance to speak with someone knowledgeable to what i really want to learn:)
  11. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Yes, I'm afraid I don't know much about them, but I was asked by a paint shop to do some airbrushing tests on water based basecoats as they were switching from Uros. Paint laws are tightening up here so shops are starting to switch as some colours you can only buy now if it is for restoration purposes on an age related vehicle. I think some places in the US like California are similar.

    The internet might be a good option. Yes you will have to pay shipping, but auto paints can work out very expensive, so there may not be much difference, and you could get something safer.
  12. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Yes 2k is the same as 2 part or clear coat. You can also get a 1k clear, but in my opinion its not as good. 2k is gas proof, has better UV protection, lays down better giving a glasslike deep look, and cures tougher.
  13. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    the kandy is from createx....it's a polyurethane water-based candy! it can be cleared over with urethane clear. what I mean by 2k or 2 part is clear and hardener part

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  14. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    true story...lol

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  15. markjthomson

    markjthomson Very happy! Staff Member Mod

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    [QUOTE="AUTOMOTIVE to be exact, correct me if im wrong.... but my understanding is when you say AUTOMOTIVE PAINT - its all SOLVENT BASE - (laquer, etc)... Not exclusively the case. Lacquers are solvent based, enamels are different as are urethanes. Water based is a solvent based paint as well, using water as the solvent.

    this will be my first time to venture to the realms of SOLVENT base paints.... im goin to need all the advices and tips i can have.... here are a few questions i had in mind

    • can i use LAQUER THINNER as a reducer for URETHANE paints? - Maybe, maybe not. Use what the MANUFACTURER recommends and nothing else.

    • whats the recomended PSI when working with this paints? - This is a how long is a piece of string question. Many variables including needle size, type of paint and viscosity.

    • i love the gloss finish that automotive paints has, it adds dept, are all paints in this category has that kind of finish? - Has more to do with the painter than the paint, often there are clear coats over top of the finished work and these can be further cut and polished to achieve maximum shine.

    pls understand that i dont have the luxury of having the brands always mention here ( createx, HOK, wicked, etc) ill be purchasing /mixing / prepping my own paint, and will be bought from one of a local auto paint shop here, if theres any mis info on my side pls be free to correct me... Your common or garden automotive paint IS NOT designed for the airbrush. That is a trap for young players.

    thanks and godspeed[/QUOTE]

    Most importantly, automotive paints (especially urethanes) are very toxic to you, your neighbors and the environment, make sure you take all precautions during spraying to protect yourself.
  16. markjthomson

    markjthomson Very happy! Staff Member Mod

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    The 2k is a 2 part paint, any 2 part paint will be at the very toxic end of the scale, this is one that needs full protection and thought about where you spray it. Read up on isocyanates.
  17. neil villanueva

    neil villanueva Young Tutorling

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    well as expected i learned a lot from this forum.... and after all the discussions made ive decided to stick with waterbase paints and finish it off with a good CLEAR on it, i maybe ready for the URETHANE paints but im not sure about my location, actually the reason why im so eager to try it is because:

    • id like to have that glass like finish i see on auto paints
    • i really hate the fact that i always have this TIP DRY in my brushes (often happens on waterbase paints)

    as for the CLEAR, like one of you said... its not on the type of paint its on the "finishing"... and for the TIP DRY, i guess i need to learn to live with it..

    i just hope i can find a good auto paint shop here that has a good waterbase paints...but im positive i will, i know i cant use HOUSE PAINT / ACRYLIC on TUBES / ARTIST PAINTS specially in a nozzle .3 and below....it will just clog the hell out of it

    im very thankfull you guys replied... knowledge given will never be wasted
    thanks again....:thumbsup:



    BTW here are my brushes,....
    - BADGER 175 CRESENDO (S-M-H)
    - BADGER 150 (.2 fine)
    - PATRIOT 105 (.35)
    - PAASCHE VL (S-M-H)
    JackEb likes this.
  18. nickkat1

    nickkat1 Gravity Guru

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    Neil since you are in the Philippines might I suggest you try Trident paint...the are out of Australia! it is an excellent water based paint

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