urethane or water

[doubleE]

I been practicing and trying to get better using Createx water base while using it, I have a nice thin line going then it stops spraying so I pull back a little more on the trigger and I it makes a fat line and runs.
every so often I have to point away from project and pull trigger all the way back till sprays then proceed

I was using lacquer paint I bought from pepboys for practice and I feel I have better control

I cant get and detail with water. Should I stick using urethane

What do people think of the Createx wicked Candy2O compare to House of Kolor candy

 

[markjthomson]

That is normal for AB's. Keep the needle clean, reduce the paint will assist. Waterbased are more prone to this than solvent based.

 

[JackEb]

People get detail with waterbased paint, the proof is on the forum.
Practice, good cleaning of your brush and learning the right reductions is key.
Maybe try some E'tac for awhile until you learn more. Createx illustration caused me problems when I was learning, I tried E'tac EFX and it all started to make sense.
Now I know how things SHOULD work I get on much better with Createx.

 

[haasje dutchairbrush]

I use both waterbased and urethanes (depending on the surface I'm working on) and can get equal results with both types of paint (and I tend to do pretty detailed work). I'd advice against sticking to urethanes as they are not suited for all surfaces and not knowing how to handle waterbased paints will limmit your options.

This doesn't mean both types of paint behave in the same way though (not going in to all the differences here ). As stated above waterbased paint is more prone to tipdry and if you treat it like a urethane (amount of reduction, air pressure etc) you'll probably have a lot of tipdry. Especialy if you are using wicked which (in my meager experience with that brand) requieres a very high amount of reduction to flow nicely (through an iwata cm-sb I had to go 10:1 or something like that).

Observing students and reading posts has led me to believe that the main reason people have problems with a paint or dislike a certain paint/brand is that they expect it to behave and treat it as the paint they where used to. The moment it doesn't do what is expected of it (without altering stuff like reduction airpressure etc to suit the new paint) it is regarded as crap and put aside.

Paint like an airbrush itself needs some practice and getting used to and it will probably take a bit of time and experimenting to get it to react the way you want/are used to. That being said there probably are some paints you will just not get along with so at a certain point it might be an idea to just put 'm aside and try another brand


In regard to the 2O candy, I haven't used it myself but did some reading up on it and have yet to come across a negative review of it.

 

[musicmacd]

Sounds like a little more reduction may be required?
Always have a scrap piece of paper to constantly blow off the needle,
Do what makes you happy

 

[twood]

I love the Candy 2O....All I have used in candy though, was the pigment based AutoAir. Now I use the old type as a transparent....
I have great results though....This was my first thing using the 2O...Blood Red...and black and white Wicked Detail. Used the AutoAir white sealer after prep....The helmet was black...

.

Cheers

 

[RebelAir]

To be fair it could also be the paint LOL..The grass isn't always greener but this is a case where sumtimes it is but it is also as mentioned a learning curve thing..If it takes a yr to really learn the basics of airbrushing well, it takes that same year to begin to understand your paint..and ultimately agree with hassje, but sometimes one paint just suits better than maybe another will..Sometimes simply changing or trying different brands and finding the one you like..For example..Many amazing pieces around here done with Etac, others though hate it with passion and that goes for all brands and into uro's..I think using each for their own is also the best thing atm, until at least they fully remove uro's from the market which likely will happen sooner than later..but for auto i wont use water based, uro for me is 10x more supreme in many ways..There is a reason why they now add mild solvent to many water based or bourne paint..They want it acting more like uro's..Some are getting close..but yer if you want to do canvas..get used to waterbased or focus on auto whilst uro's still abound......or make your canvases metal

 

[Mr.Micron]

My main question is do you have a professional paint booth? If not water based is you best option.
Being I have no ideal where you live on this big old planet due to I only saw this post and one about problems with a badger airbrush and no introduction.
I can only tell you that spraying urethane in a neighborhood without a professional paint booth with full filter system is not only harmful to your health but to the health that lives anywhere around you.
Isocyanate aka ISO's are in urethane paint and causes some serious health issues . There are a few companies that are working on an Isocyanate free urethane paint But somethings take time to get it right.
Safety first.
I have a full paint booth to use when the customer is dead set on urethane Kandies . But being Createx has came up with a true candy in their Candy02 I have been using that even more .
Now if you want to know is one better then the other that is all in who is using it . Both have to be reduced Both candies have to be added to a carrier (intercoat clear) and as Rebel kind of said here in the USA they are trying to phase out the use of urethane except on the clear coat . So far I have not seen a water base clear coat that holds up over long periods of time.

 

[Squishy]

More and more places are regulating against urethane paints, because of health and safety etc. So best to check the laws in your area before committing, and then having to re - learn later if you cant use them. Also as stated above, if you don't have all the safety gear, its a health risk.

Water based is great for detail, it just takes some getting used to, and experimenting to get your ratios right. I think most of the art here is water based.

Candies can be tricky in general, they can come out looking patchy or have banding until you get the knack. I haven't used HOK, but compared to others The Candy 20 is awesome. You need the 4030 additive. I had drying issues at first, but adding more than the recommended amount of 4030 fixed it.

 

[doubleE]

I live in Ct so we can get away using ur for now
I doing practice on a small IKEA metal file cabinet , I bought a Harley gas tank at a swap meet for $5 so that's nxt to practice on.

I did auto body work in the past and painted cars , so was just doing a garage paint job on my golf cart, then wanted to airbrush the hood and back end with skulls and flames.
I did a garage paint job last time came out good but no airbrush work just carbon fiber with spray gun
I went and tried more painting today clean ab really good I would get a spit and stop spraying every so often with the water base I deluded it more then it was to much.
I was getting some nice small lines (teeth of skulls) but the spit
I am trying 20-25 psi then 40-45 psi
I like lower

I am trying to get use to using the water base looking in the other brands
I been a web, graphic and 3D designer but want to move away and start airbrush more
I was looking into the cricket for cutting masking out, anybody try that not looking to buy a big vinyl machine