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Which airbrush do you use?

Discussion in 'Airbrushes' started by Malsograf, Mar 5, 2012.


?

Which Airbrush Do You Use?

  1. Passche

    16.1%
  2. Iwata

    55.6%
  3. Grex

    2.3%
  4. Badger

    28.3%
  5. Harder Steenbeck

    19.0%
  6. Master Series

    5.3%
  7. Knock Off's Made in China

    11.9%
  8. Richpen

    2.0%
  9. Olympos

    3.2%
  10. EFBE

    0.6%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Vladimir

    Vladimir Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    J000seph Nice arsenal!
    What could you say about the difference in performance of MP-200C and CM-C+?

    I also find that foam insert very good thing as I've got a lot of ABs and think to arrange them somewhere.
    Looks like the insert is laser cut. Laser cut isn't issue, but making good measurements of the airbrush is big question... I don't know how to do those measurements. Maybe Bigmike would answer.
    I'm not saying I'm not able to make the measurements:) I can, but how to do it so precise as above is shown, that's a question. I like how the insert looks.
    I know that for laser cutting one should prepare a CorelDraw file with the shape to cut. It's not an issue for me, but again the measurements!
  2. J000seph

    J000seph Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    I would say the MP-200C is comparable to the CM-C+. Definetly a good value for the price in my opinion. A couple people on here have done reviews worth checking out.
    Vladimir likes this.
  3. Vladimir

    Vladimir Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    Thanx!:) I've read those reviews but your opinion is also has value. All the reviews say that spraying is the same and I'm not interested in MAC, so there's no need for me to try CM-C+ for the reason of AAD as I have 200C.
  4. J000seph

    J000seph Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    I was interested in Olympos & I read everything about Olympos I could find. MP-200C is the only Olympos I've used. Mine have L3 head but supposedly S3 head is closer to Iwata Micron head. I doubt most people could tell real difference between L3 and S3. Even Olympos says the difference is subtle. The difference I noticed with the Iwata Micron is that it is quieter. The air coming out makes less air noise than my L3 head. I'm not sure if that affects performance but I would think it must. The L3 has bigger air holes than S3 and Iwata. You can adjust psi accordingly, but it must change the spray pattern or Venturi or something. The Iwata seems to spray slightly more delicate. CM-C+ is definitely more hefty in hand. And Iwata cup placement has more room for your trigger finger. The Olympos is slightly shorter body. I really like MP-200C but I prefer the CM-C+ a little more. I had CM-C+ first and my first impression after getting MP200-C was that it felt very "light". An exaggeration would be to describe the feeling of it seeming hollow or made of tin. I love mine & not saying anything bad. Maybe Iwata has thicker chrome coating or slightly thicker metal?
    Vladimir likes this.
  5. Vladimir

    Vladimir Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    I think the difference in noise exists because of the reason of slightly different holes in the air nozzles (very minute difference). I'd say Iwata's holes are made a bit better. As the technology is better now than at the time Olympos was produced. I've got all three types of Olympos micron's heads, one of them is identical to Iwata's.
    Try to change the air nozzles and say how noise is changed.
    But also Olympos paint nozzles have smaller diameter than Iwata's.
    I don't like finger position on the trigger, as you've said it has a little space for that.
    But MP-200A is very convenient as there's nothing on the finger's way. And it sprays great compared to C model, because of smaller nozzle. I mean it's a way better for detail work.
    J000seph likes this.
  6. SergioMisura

    SergioMisura Young Tutorling

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    Приветствую! Я работаю Iwata HP-с + и китайские сувениры. Эта работа, которую я сделал поддельные 0,3мм Китая. 12650859_187401138286310_1577408507380877706_n.jpg
    Shawnavin and jord001 like this.
  7. johnnyk

    johnnyk Young Tutorling

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    I m still a beginner. I use the Badger Patriot 105.....looking to buy something a bit more fine.....I hesitate a bit , I might go for the SOTAR 20/20....
    Saw quiet a number of good reviews out there on that brush.....
  8. Dale Wilson

    Dale Wilson Young Tutorling

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    I have both the Patriot 105 and the Sotar 20/20. I love both brushes. I do like Iwata and even have a hp-c+. But for the action alone, I reach for the Sotar every time. The cup is smaller, but the action is so smooth. The valve spring is very stiff, at least for my taste, on the Iwata. In short, if you like the Patriot, you will like the Sotar. I am just finishing all the painting on the Eneterprise 1/350 refit model. Did every last drop of paint with those two brushes. Just go for it!
  9. johnnyk

    johnnyk Young Tutorling

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    Enterprise 1/350 refit model! great project! must be fun! It looks fantastic anyway.Thanks dale for those advice. I m reading so much review out there at the moment...need to act! you might have finally convince me to act! :)
    All the best
  10. Dale Wilson

    Dale Wilson Young Tutorling

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    Good luck and enjoy. Some of my stencil work. 1701-2.jpg 1701-1.jpg
  11. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    Airbrushes.jpg HarderSteenbeckInfinity.jpg Well here's my little collection. Paasche HS and VLST, and my new Harder & Steenbeck Infinity.
    JackEb likes this.
  12. mike k

    mike k Young Tutorling

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    im new here, but i use my holbein toricon all the time! the best brush, i sold all my isatas, they werent for me, i also use grex xgs2, and mr. supreme procon boy .18mm i have a .23mm olympos head, and the needle and nozzle is comeing today so im going to try that out and see what the fuss is all about. i been researchig airbrushes for a long time, and i think holbein and meiji define complete control at your finger tips, i also have a y2 and y2 dash and they are basically microns with parts that will last you forever
  13. Juan96

    Juan96 Young Tutorling

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    How about the paasche vision is good for detail and is good in quality
  14. Juan96

    Juan96 Young Tutorling

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    ¿Qué hay de la visión de Paasche es bueno para el detalle y es bueno en calidad?
  15. Viking74

    Viking74 Young Tutorling

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    I have the
    Iwata CM-C+ CM-B v2 HP-BP HP-CS
    H&S 2x Infinity CRP Evolution Solo
    SATA Satagrsph 4B
    Hansa 381
    Badger krome, Renegade Velocity, 155, 2020
    T&H Vega 600
    Paasche Talon

    I use them for scalemodelling.

    If I should pick just one it would be the HP-CS. Great all purpose workhorse.
    The first I would let go is the Talon. I only use it for gloss and clearcoat with the 0.66 fancap set up.
  16. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    I have been debating on getting a talon just for that reason . Clear coating small object vs using my mini sata .
    How well does it coat ?
  17. Viking74

    Viking74 Young Tutorling

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    For smaller objects as cars in 1:24 scale its actually does a nice job. I have never tried a high quality hvlp though. It give a nice and predictable pattern at 20-25 psi. It outperforms the rattle cans I used before :)
  18. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Thank you for the information ,
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  19. Russ Allen

    Russ Allen Elite Member! Elite Member!

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    Really depends on the substrate and how much detail but most of my toys are listed in my signature!!! I use the Badger Krome probably the most, but I use the Iwata Eclipse CS a lot too, oh and my Badger Sotar 20/20 F for fine details and if more than one color of fine details my Iwata Micron CM-C+ and SB, and who can forget the new Badger Patriot 105 Xtreme for just about anything really, large coverage or fine details and for the Larger stuff Iwata WS400 or TF!!!
  20. Russ Allen

    Russ Allen Elite Member! Elite Member!

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    The Talon sprays nicely enough but is one heavy dude! I have horrible wrists (don't ask what from, lol) and the weight of that brush kills my wrist within minutes, just me personally but its built well

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