Wicked tricks

Thanks buddy.
I wonder if there is much in the way of 'clinical follow-up'.
That is, how people have gone with using it under clear coat and if there have been any issues.
I have to say though, it's hard to imagine W100 being much more than this, or W500 being much more than this with the amine from window cleaner in it.

I'll certainly give a try, thanks a bunch for the info.
 
teebonebrivegas, I use the base set, not detail.

So I started a new big piece on canvas and got out the Eclipse. So now I reduce it 1:4 (paint:reducer). Much better but I had to crank up the air to about 20 psi. I don't like that. The black covers great. But if I reduce it more, the black turns to grey and it spiders, even if I drop the pressure. And tip try is awful. Every 2 seconds and it is big build ups. I would like to try the W100 and see if that is not better.

I will only finish the darkest parts of this painting with it and do the lighter bits with Com-art. I'm totally out of my comfort zone with this paint.
 
Andeza, add some more paint to the mix. I use Wicked detail at 1:2 paint to reducer (4011) at 20 psi with the Micron and get some real fine detail. Works for me.

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Also I find that each color has its own requirements, a little more or less reducer. Need to keep picking the tip. I use a wet paper towel.

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Andre if you come from Etac ot comart you will have a very hard time using wicked. I too cannot get used to wicked or the illustration base from createx, i have tried nearly everything. I just do not get it ! And poeple make amazing things with wicked, I simply cannot.
 
Thanks Pat. It help knowing I'm not the only one. The other brands you mentioned are real easy to ge the hang off. But like you've said, others do amazing work with Wicked and the likes.
 
I got the W500 with my Primary set and I was disappointed to say the least I tried for 2 days with it reducing it in every way I could think and all i got after 40 seconds way tip dry and I even shot it through both my Kromes at about 15psi and all the way upto 35psi and nothing so I thought sod it I'll go back to using my homemade reducer and it was ruddy great I have used the Jason Jones recipe since I started ABing and it's been ok with Createx and the old pain in one backside with the white lol, but with the Wicked it was a ruddy revelation and it's cost very little to make and you never run out I would definitely give it a whirl it only costs a few quid and it gives you loads ;)

I told a friend about it he gave it a whirl and he's still using it now he went back from W500 to 4011 because it was such a pain he told me out of a full cup on one of his Iwata's he would normally pick the tip 40 to 50 times and when he shot Wicked with the Jason Jones recipe he only had to pick his needle once......Sorry rant over lol hope it helps ;) but try if you do to get Glycerin that is as close to 100% as it's what I use so you should get the same results but just add an extra drop or 2 depending on how much you make ;)

May I ask where you sourced Denatured Alcohol in the UK please, I assume you mean clear Meths? Also what clear ammonia free Window Cleaner did you use please?
 
May I ask where you sourced Denatured Alcohol in the UK please, I assume you mean clear Meths? Also what clear ammonia free Window Cleaner did you use please?

For Denatured alcohol.....I dont know about the UK, but in Canada go to the marina or outdoor store. It is the fuel you would use for stoves on a boat.
 
Thanks Pat. It help knowing I'm not the only one. The other brands you mentioned are real easy to ge the hang off. But like you've said, others do amazing work with Wicked and the likes.

I'm an E'tac user and have problems getting wicked to work for me too. I like some of their colors and sometimes it just seems easier to grab a bottle of wicked rather than trying to mix the shade I want, but they react so different than what I'm used to, it usually gets very frustrating trying to make it work. One thing that does help, is adding a few drops of the AG20/50 from E'tac. Its not a cure-all, but it does help a little.
 
For Denatured alcohol.....I dont know about the UK, but in Canada go to the marina or outdoor store. It is the fuel you would use for stoves on a boat.
Clear Methylated Spirits perhaps?
 
[h=1]Denatured alcohol[/h]From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



94% denatured ethanol sold in a bottle for household use​

Denatured alcohol or methylated spirits is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, extremely bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption. In some cases it is also dyed.
Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for spirit burners and camping stoves. Because of the diversity of industrial uses for denatured alcohol, hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. The main additive has traditionally been 10% methanol, giving rise to the term "methylated spirits". Other typical additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and denatonium.[SUP][1

[/SUP]

 
Ok As I mentioned I am working on some phone covers just to get some money. I thought just to some wicked again butusing my iwata cs. Now I must admit that i work good using that airbrush with wicked.I would not use it my portraits but zi dont have too, but for some small custom work I probably going to try some more , also not having to use inspire with that smell :(
 
I found what might be another ingredient, I could not find Eagle 1 in the UK but HAlfords sell this for £7.99 and in ASDA £3 !!!
The MSDS doesn't say there is any ammonia in it
238585_Large_1.jpeg
 
Wicked and Wicked Detail are awesome! Reduction of 4:1 seems a bit TOO reduced from my experience. As always it depends on psi, tip size, and what medium is to be painted. I usually reduce the Wicked a bit more than the Detail, probably 1:1 for Detail. Whatever the case, Wicked and Wicked Detail are my absolute favorite airbrush paints I've used. You can create just about any color in any viscosity by trial and error experimenting. Just make sure to take notes.
 
Well last night I pushed Wicked black through my Micron. I reduced it 1:6 (paint:reducer) and it was pretty good. Tip dry was still crazy and the black was more a sepia brown then black, but it worked great. Cleanup was a also quick.

I do have some W100/4011 reducer on its way and will see if it works better then the W500.
 
Well, I have only ever used wicked and auto air... so I don't know how this compares with other paints... I'm still a noob airbrush artist, got my first airbrush a little over a year ago so... I don't know if this is gonna help or not.

First I always put the reducer into the cup first. NEver put the paint in the cup and then the reducer IMO. It mixes much better if you add the paint to the reducer IMO... If you put the paint in first, the part near the needle takes forever to mix in as well as the paint on the sides of the cup (well... I guess you could put the cap on and give it a good shake and it will work either way but I never use my cap. I like to just swirl it in the cup and spray). It also helps when mixing colors to mix in reducer and the first color and then a drop or two more of reducer and then a drop of your next color. And I just keep kind of going like this till I get the color I want. If I'm having problems mixing colors in the cup... add another drop of reducer.

As far as ratios... For wicked, it's always AT LEAST 50/50... Probably more like 60/40 reducer/paint. I really don't know my ratios as it just eyeball it to the consistency I want. But there is always more reducer in there than paint. If I'm using opaque white... you better use like 80-90% reducer. Again I'm just eyeballing it but adding the paint to the reducer helps you eyeball it. I put in like 8-10 drops of reducer... add a drop of white and mix it in and keep adding a drop of white till I get it to where it's good. But seriously it's mostly reducer for opaque white...

What I would do to get used getting the paint right and just eyeballing it (I'm never exact), is add like 4-5 drops reducer... then add a drop.. mix it in. If it looks to thin, add another drop... spray a little on something to practice on and if it spiderwebs, add another drop of paint.

PSI... I think I have it at 35.... 30 or 35... I could probably try turning it down... but I don't know if it's not broke, don't fix it so I've just left it there =)

Anyway, I can get really fine lines with my HPC+ with the paint and pressure like this...

Sorry my numbers were so rough but that's how I do it. I NEVER let my paint sit for a couple minutes... just mix and go.

I do the same for auto air transparents and candies... probably use a little more paint for those since those are both kind of thin already but yeah.

Edit.. oh and I always use the 4011 reducer... That's the only stuff I've ever had so...
 
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I just can not work with pressure higher then 15psi. I just don't have that control. I got some pretty good results last night. It's like any other tool, you have to get use to it. I quickly changed between my Eclipse and Micron and with the first pull of the trigger on the Micron I almost emptied the cup because it is so sensitive. SO you just need practice.
 
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