0.23 or 0.35

S

Smiler65

Guest
Hi all,
I'm really struggling to get consistency out of my CM-SB with a 0.18 setup in it. Some days I can get it spot on and can enjoy what I'm doing, but most of the time I'm constantly fighting spiders etc and just don't enjoy what I'm doing.
I'm using com-art and using transbase and reducer to thin the paint, although I am looking at possibly changing to etac, although I've been reading there's not much difference between the 2.

So I'm thinking of going to change my tip size by either buying a 0.23 set up for the micron or changing the brush completely to a HP-SBS with a 0.35 set up. And keeping the micron till my ability to use it improves.

I do have the AL PLUS but just cannot get on with it, I find it very stiff to use even after putting new parts into it. I also really like the side cup as I find my "aim" is a lot better with it hence why the choice of the HP.

What do you guys think, cheers.
 
@Smiler65
Morning mate, I read "Frustration" in your message. You are not alone! We all suffer from this, even the pro's.
Sometimes everything is sweet as a nut, paint flows beautifully, trigger action is spot on and all is well with the world :) Other days nothing seems to be right! Grrrrrrrrrr
There are loads of reasons for this but what I want to say to you (and others ) is this, If you only have one brush and one brand of paint you will use it all the time, you will get used to it and know it inside out. If you have two brushes then each one will be used less so it will take longer to get to know them. and the more brushes you have the less you will know them. Add multiple paints to the equation and the learning curve dive exponentially!
I Use Com Art as well as Etac and I think that both paints are about the same.
My advice for what it's worth is to stop chopping and changing things around. Stick with what you have and get used to your paint and equipment.
I painted for 8 years with a 0.5 with no problems at all, it wasn't until I joined this forum that I bought smaller brushes for working on Pictures. my main stuff is helmets and Bikes and I have never found the need for a small brush to paint flames and chains and Skulls because I can pull really fine lines with my 0.5.
Where the smaller brushes comes in for me is where I only want to paint with 1 or 2 drops of paint.
Save your money mate and really get to know the gear you have.
 
Like Odball said, you just need to get use to everything. I use Com-art and E'tac in all my guns. I just like the E'tac more because it cleans so much easier and obviously the colours. If Com-art had the same colours I would have sticked to it.
 
Morning Marty,
Frustration is a perfect word to use,it's like everything in life, good days and bad.
I do tend to stick with using just the micron and paint but as you pointed out that even with a 0.5 you can pull fine lines, I've already decided to change the size format upto A3 as I was trying to go to small for my ability, as a fine line at that size is obviously different to a fine line on A5 size,hence why I was looking at going bigger with the nozzle size.
I love the micron, I've changed springs etc to get the perfect feel for me, and don't really want to change but was just looking for that "easy" fix that probably don't excist.
As you say perseverance is probably the answer,
 
Like Odball said, you just need to get use to everything. I use Com-art and E'tac in all my guns. I just like the E'tac more because it cleans so much easier and obviously the colours. If Com-art had the same colours I would have sticked to it.
Colour choice doesn't come into it for me at the moment,still learning about colour etc so that wont be a factor for changing.
 
When I first got my H&S it was like starting over again after using the Veda, everything was different. I have only got the one decent AB so I do use it all the time..... Now I love it, it still gives me hassle now n then, but its not always the AB. Some days I just cant paint, nothing to do with paint or brush, it just doesnt work.... I have a day off lol
 
hmmmm com art and a sb, should work perfectly buddy! when you say trans and reducer to thin the paint, bare in mind trans is paint without pigment, so water or reducer thins the paint, trans thins the amount of pigment in the paint. so by adding the trans you are thickening up what you have just thinned down with reducer. try putting the trans aside for a little while and getting your paint to flow nicely that way, if you are getting spiders, leave the paint how it is but turn your pressure down a bit.
the way i work (marissas technique) its paint with a drop or 2 of water for the features.... a bit more water for the detail, and then only really using trans base for the very soft shading or co,lour glazing at the end
 
Hi all,
I'm really struggling to get consistency out of my CM-SB with a 0.18 setup in it. Some days I can get it spot on and can enjoy what I'm doing, but most of the time I'm constantly fighting spiders etc and just don't enjoy what I'm doing.
I'm using com-art and using transbase and reducer to thin the paint, although I am looking at possibly changing to etac, although I've been reading there's not much difference between the 2.

So I'm thinking of going to change my tip size by either buying a 0.23 set up for the micron or changing the brush completely to a HP-SBS with a 0.35 set up. And keeping the micron till my ability to use it improves.

I do have the AL PLUS but just cannot get on with it, I find it very stiff to use even after putting new parts into it. I also really like the side cup as I find my "aim" is a lot better with it hence why the choice of the HP.

What do you guys think, cheers.

What part of using the AL Plus do you find stiff? The trigger press for air is adjustable and the trigger pull for paint, I changed out the spring with one from an old pen that was laying around. It's right on par with my modified micron for smoothness and better than the micron trigger press was from the factory.
 
You have a mighty fine brush there Smiler, so I would stick with that, and remember that paint can behave differently on different days, and different colours within the same brand work better reduced differently too. So what was sweet yesterday, may need a tweak today. That is why I am thinking if you are happy with Com-art when it's all working well, then stick with it. You will get to know it inside and out, and those adjustments will become second nature. And remember if you are getting spidering then rather than adding transbase to thicken again, reduce the pressure and see if that helps. I know some so as low as 5 - 10 psi.
 
Smiler! What up bud! I am airbrushing now but when I first started tattooing some years ago I wasted so much $ on very expensive tattoo machines different inks.Nothing ever saved the day other than spending time at the wheel.Stay down with those bloody nice brushes you have. TiME! Could've saved my wallet.
 
As far as spidering something that helped me as noobie is- If a train is going 100 miles an hour=25 psi the paint is the train and you brake it at the trigger.Put the brakes down on that paint.CHOKE IT! So to speak
 
hmmmm com art and a sb, should work perfectly buddy! when you say trans and reducer to thin the paint, bare in mind trans is paint without pigment, so water or reducer thins the paint, trans thins the amount of pigment in the paint. so by adding the trans you are thickening up what you have just thinned down with reducer. try putting the trans aside for a little while and getting your paint to flow nicely that way, if you are getting spiders, leave the paint how it is but turn your pressure down a bit.
the way i work (marissas technique) its paint with a drop or 2 of water for the features.... a bit more water for the detail, and then only really using trans base for the very soft shading or co,lour glazing at the end
Hey up @ad fez
I use the reducer to thin out the paint so it sprays better, the transbase i use to "lighten" the paint meaning to me that i now need 10 layers to get to true opacity instead of 5 say.
I mix in the cup in this order
3 drops reducer( 4011)
3 drops transbase ( createx)
1 drop com art paint.
The above choice is a starting point found after another thread where i was asking about reduction in transparents and opaues.
I understand about airpressure, distance and trigger contol or relating to spiders, so that is partly my experience id say, but it doesnt explain why one cup used ok then followed buy second mix everything going pear shape.
Ill try leaving the trans out and see how it goes.
Thanks for replying.
 
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What part of using the AL Plus do you find stiff? The trigger press for air is adjustable and the trigger pull for paint, I changed out the spring with one from an old pen that was laying around. It's right on par with my modified micron for smoothness and better than the micron trigger press was from the factory.
Hi Jeff i can back off the air spring underneath my quick connect but once ive done that the air valve wont shut without liffting the trigger. I have stripped the air valve and cleaned it incase it was gummed up, put a new needle and needle packing seals(3) and still find it "tight to pull back"
Dont think i can adjust the trigger tension, i done the pen spring mod to the micron, so maybe i will have to try that with the AL
Thanks for imput.
 
Thanks @Squishy
When everything flows im like a kid in the sweetshop absolutely love it.
I looked at changing paint for several reasons, but the more i look at it the less convinced it will make much difference.playing with the air pressure i do quite alot but even if i have it just cracked on the mac valve i get spiders but as said thats prob me.
You have a mighty fine brush there Smiler, so I would stick with that, and remember that paint can behave differently on different days, and different colours within the same brand work better reduced differently too. So what was sweet yesterday, may need a tweak today. That is why I am thinking if you are happy with Com-art when it's all working well, then stick with it. You will get to know it inside and out, and those adjustments will become second nature. And remember if you are getting spidering then rather than adding transbase to thicken again, reduce the pressure and see if that helps. I know some so as low as 5 - 10 psi.
 
@Smiler65 I see you are using 3 drops reducer( 4011)
3 drops transbase ( createx)
1 drop com art paint.
I have no idea it this mixing of different reducers and paints works?
 
@Smiler65 I see you are using 3 drops reducer( 4011)
3 drops transbase ( createx)
1 drop com art paint.
I have no idea it this mixing of different reducers and paints works?
@Oddball i cant say for sure that they are working perfectly together but i also dont see any seperation of components, i also now this was based on others using the same.
Maybe i should try going back to just water and starting again?as Adam suggested
 
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Hi Jeff i can back off the air spring underneath my quick connect but once ive done that the air valve wont shut without liffting the trigger. I have stripped the air valve and cleaned it incase it was gummed up, put a new needle and needle packing seals(3) and still find it "tight to pull back"
Dont think i can adjust the trigger tension, i done the pen spring mod to the micron, so maybe i will have to try that with the AL
Thanks for imput.

The replacement needle packing seals seem to be a bit tight from the factory. I replaced the ones in my Infinity and it's was right for a while. A bit of SuperLube on the needle helped it until the seals broke in.
 
Hi Jeff i can back off the air spring underneath my quick connect but once ive done that the air valve wont shut without liffting the trigger. I have stripped the air valve and cleaned it incase it was gummed up, put a new needle and needle packing seals(3) and still find it "tight to pull back"
Dont think i can adjust the trigger tension, i done the pen spring mod to the micron, so maybe i will have to try that with the AL
Thanks for imput.

As for the the press for air, I adjusted mine to where it has just enough spring back at around 10 psi that it would return and not leak any air. It's about as soft as using one of the Zsolt springs on a Micron when adjusted that way.
 
As for the the press for air, I adjusted mine to where it has just enough spring back at around 10 psi that it would return and not leak any air. It's about as soft as using one of the Zsolt springs on a Micron when adjusted that way.
I use a Zsolt spring in the micron, but to get my Al springing shut i seem to have to screw it up about 1/2 way up the threads, i was thinking of getting the fpc valve for it to see if it improved things, as i do like the brush for other reasons.
 
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