2k Clear

Hey wicked, I am doing a jeweled metal panel, and planning on putting a couple coats of clear to cover the grind marks then sanding with 800 grit for adhesion purposes. Instead of using my 2k clear to cover the grind marks, do you see any complications if I was to use acrylic lacquer instead and then use the 2k for my final clear coat?

I'd try it on a test panel first.
 
Agreed, thank you for all your help wicked. You cleared up of of questions for me! I have the link now for all the tech sheets and tech sheet for my Dupont clear too!
 
Wicked, one more question if you don't mind.. What kind of clear do you use? I was dead set on uc35 clear yesterday and the guy said HOK clear is quite finicky. He said personally, he doesn't like HOK clear cuz the price and its finicky. So.. I went with his suggestion of spot panel DuPont clear.. What is your opinion on these matters?
 
I put my acrylic lacquer down and it made the jeweled effect look very dull. Will that brighten back up once I lay the paint and final coat of clear? I'm kind of thinking the 2k would of layer smoother and kept the jeweled effect mom pronounced?
 
Wow that's something good to know! Well I laid my lacquer down, the jewel effect did come back after it dried.. Only thing is, I have some fish eyes.. I think I went too heavy perhaps on the 3rd coat. I'm going to keep layering clear over the fish eyes and hope it sands out.

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Well I was planning on Putting some Kandy paint and graphic on top of the clear.. I think I'm only supposed to go up to 800 grit then spray kandies and graphics
 
So the fish eyes are normal on Bare aluminum? Think it will sand out? Am I doing right by adding more clear to fill the fish eyes?
 
yeah just hit it with 800 then wipe good with oil and grease remover spray your candy and so forth you have a properly set up on your compressor along with one disposable one on the handle of the spray gun ? If not this could also be a cause of fish eyes.
 
I'm actually using spray can acrylic lacquer for this coat. I don't have anything disposable but a paint filter. I have the 2k but I haven't setup my gun yet.. Prolly going to do that tonight
 
My compressor is setup right I have two regulators and a water filter. One in line spray gun regulator
 
ok cool just wanted to make sure I get them now and again painting also they are not that big of a deal as long as you can get some material in those spots I never painted bare alluminum with clear so it makes me unable to say weather this is normal or not.
 
Oh ok.. Thanks attitude! I appreciate your help.. I'm in the trial and error phase right now.. Got bit by the AB bug in December and hopefully I will not have so many questions in a month or two.. Lol
 
Yeah, even with the answers it is hard! I can't imagine if I didn't have a place to ask questions.. I proally would of wasted a lot of money on wasted attempts.
 
Wicked, one more question if you don't mind.. What kind of clear do you use? I was dead set on uc35 clear yesterday and the guy said HOK clear is quite finicky. He said personally, he doesn't like HOK clear cuz the price and its finicky. So.. I went with his suggestion of spot panel DuPont clear.. What is your opinion on these matters?

I've used HOK products for nearly 20 years, with UC35 being my choice of clear for all motorcycle parts, and have never experienced "finicky" issues. I've never used Dupont products simply because my local jobber doesn't carry them. So, I can't speak on the differences between these two products. Provided you follow the tech sheets and stick to one system, you shouldn't run into problems.

When you're new to all of this, I strongly recommend sticking with one paint system. Learn the rules to your chosen system and then you can start experimenting with ways to break them. One of the easiest ways to run into problems is to start mixing different products. Some work fine together and some do not.
 
So.. I went with his suggestion of spot panel DuPont clear.. What is your opinion on these matters?

Also, "spot panel" clears are designed for the repair and refinish industry. They are generally high build, quick cure allowing body shops to get the job out the door faster. These clears are more difficult to get a good finish with from the gun because they tack up very quick. Not a problem for the refinsh industry that is trying to match the factory orange peel, but they are not the best option for a show room finish. They also don't have as many UV inhibitors. Just FYI...
 
yeah just hit it with 800 then wipe good with oil and grease remover spray your candy and so forth you have a properly set up on your compressor along with one disposable one on the handle of the spray gun ? If not this could also be a cause of fish eyes.

Agreed... the contamination could be from the aluminum itself as well if it wasn't properly cleaned before and after grinding it.
 
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