2k Urethane - What have you used

D

Dylan

Guest
So...

I bought some of the ZeroPaints 2k Urethane, followed by reading up on isocyanates and realising my 3m disposable half mask wasn't adequate PPE.

For anyone who doesn't know, or is finding this via google the basic run down is that isocyanates have a cumulative effect on you, so if you skin is exposed repeatedly at some point you can develop a reaction to it, same goes for your lungs where you can develop an asthma type condition.

So for at home use you dont necessarily need a re-breather, but you do need the following:
3m 6800: This is the full mask, you can get the half mask (3m 7502) but consider the skin on your face and its exposure
3m 6051 filter + 5n11 filter + 501 cap
Plus remember you need to change these filters every few hours of exposure.

Then cover the rest of your skin, and make sure your in a well ventilated area.

Anyway with that out of the way I wanted to ask if anyone had used regular automotive 2k with thinners?

The Zeropaints stuff is great, but I'm selling some painted 3d prints at the moment and I'm going through it like no tomorrow, so in order to cut my costs I started googling regular automotive clears. Considering I can get 5L for £55 where the Zeropaints stuff is £18 for 100ml, there is a serious cost incentive for me here and I am prepared to put up with it being slightly harder to use in aid of the saving.
 
So...

I bought some of the ZeroPaints 2k Urethane, followed by reading up on isocyanates and realising my 3m disposable half mask wasn't adequate PPE.

For anyone who doesn't know, or is finding this via google the basic run down is that isocyanates have a cumulative effect on you, so if you skin is exposed repeatedly at some point you can develop a reaction to it, same goes for your lungs where you can develop an asthma type condition.

So for at home use you dont necessarily need a re-breather, but you do need the following:
3m 6800: This is the full mask, you can get the half mask (3m 7502) but consider the skin on your face and its exposure
3m 6051 filter + 5n11 filter + 501 cap
Plus remember you need to change these filters every few hours of exposure.

Then cover the rest of your skin, and make sure your in a well ventilated area.

Anyway with that out of the way I wanted to ask if anyone had used regular automotive 2k with thinners?

The Zeropaints stuff is great, but I'm selling some painted 3d prints at the moment and I'm going through it like no tomorrow, so in order to cut my costs I started googling regular automotive clears. Considering I can get 5L for £55 where the Zeropaints stuff is £18 for 100ml, there is a serious cost incentive for me here and I am prepared to put up with it being slightly harder to use in aid of the saving.
If you are painting at home and you have neighbors close to you . You will need a paint booth with full filter system. While in your post you are talking about protecting yourself you also must think of your family and the families of your neighbor.
Old school rule of thumb if you can smell it you are getting the affects of it . May not be as strong of the affects as staying right in front of it while spray but can do the same damage.

I use a full filtered paint booth , full painters suit and a good dual filtered mask when spraying 2K.
 
Completely agree,

At the moment I am spraying outside in the day with no neighbours about, my GF has Asthema and is commonly allergic to many things, in addition to having eczema which is triggered by anything irritating her skin... I mean you should take note of the safety precautions regardless, but this certainly drives home the point about other peoples health for me.

I will look into a filtered paint booth, if you have any links you can share with information to read about these that would be great.

Also looking at ISO free clear coats at the moment, but that is a lot more reading about all the other chemicals that take their place :)

Am I right to assume you are using these precautions because you are using ISO-based paints? Could I ask which ones you use and if you use them in a Airbrush rather than Spray gun?
 
Just been reading on spray booths, I dont have the kinda space needed for a 'walk in' type thing, and this is the info I'm finding.

I just wanted to find out your thoughts (or anyone who can add) on building a sandblasting type cabinet like this kinda thing:
CAEC39E3-BB2B-4A77-83BF-D53E8F6FCFC0-large.jpg


But fully sealed and with the needed organic filters.

This way I could fit it in my small attic workshop, and easily finish my small model parts.
 
Just been reading on spray booths, I dont have the kinda space needed for a 'walk in' type thing, and this is the info I'm finding.

I just wanted to find out your thoughts (or anyone who can add) on building a sandblasting type cabinet like this kinda thing:
CAEC39E3-BB2B-4A77-83BF-D53E8F6FCFC0-large.jpg


But fully sealed and with the needed organic filters.

This way I could fit it in my small attic workshop, and easily finish my small model parts.
I can see with some mods this making a nice spray booth , Mine is a Auto Booth that I bought at a fair price used from a friend who was putting in a bigger climate controlled booth. But what made it affordable for me was I uninstall it and move it myself. Which was a blessing due to I could know first hand how it came apart and tool notes.
I hardly use 2k in an airbrush if I have a need to I use an old Paasche VL due to if I muck it up I have a local shop that carries everything for Paasche airbrushes and the prices are very affordable. I use a mini Sata HVLP touch up gun for small items most of the time. I mainly use House of Kolor
USC01 with Ku152 and ru311 sometimes I switch out the ru311 for ru300 or ru301 depending on the weather. and depending on the job will add the AX02 . Also depending on the job and surface I will add some hardener KD3000 or a flex additive .

Airflow is the key , Move the over spray away faster while allowing it to pass through multiple filters to catch all those nasty things is important.
 
Great, thanks for that info.

What nozzle size do you use when spraying the HoK stuff? My compressor (an old Hansa HTC-25)can only really handle a 0.5mm nozzle for short work, which is fine for what I'm doing. Can the HoK stuff be reduced enough to work do you think? The Clear, reducer and catalyst would set me back £80 to get delivered here, I dont think I have a local stockist.
 
Mr Micron is covering the bases so I won't add anything - I want to say well done that man for doing his research! I worked with Isocyanates for many years and was happy to get away from them. That is nasty stuff and I can't agree more - you need to look after yourself and those around you. The guys who walked into my paintshop while I was spraying often got upset when I shouted at them and told them to P off... later when I explained it they were a lot more understanding!
 
I spent 4 years painting pottery with lead based glazes, i went on to paint tractors and machinery with 2k and urathanes etc, my skin hates everything, it over reacts to itself.. if you dont wear PPE it will one day catch up with you . it only took 6 ish years for me to react to everything, luckly i dont get any lung reactions its all skin related and i wear masks and PPE now. UK has a huge ban on 2k paint at the moment. i use solvents and 2k for laquer but i recon i will have to change soon to other bases. i just dont like waterbase though.
 
oh and i rent a booth for £100 a day when i need to clear coat stuff. just incase you were wondering about set up. i dont have my own booth i borrow one. :)
 
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