A couple of airbrush paint questions

M

MadAsA

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Hi all

1. My paints are kept in the garage which is quite cold at the moment. Should i store them in a warmer place or does it not effect the paint performance when i use them.

2. I was looking at getting some autoair candys just to have a play around but noticed Base Coat Sealers and Aluminium Base in Fine/Medium/Heavy..Do I actually need a base as i will be spraying over white Opaque.

Thanks
 
Paint viscosity will change with the cold, and being waterbased it can freeze, so storing indoors is recommended. If you just want to spray candy, over opaque white, it will look funny, unless that is what you are trying to achieve. Candy like effects are sprayed over aluminum base for that standard candy look. It just depends on the size of the metal flake you want, fine, med, coarse. I would use med or fine. The coarse needs a large nozzle to spray well, like a 1.4, but it is a nice effect.


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Where I live we occasionly get the odd zero or -1/2 degrees celcius and its never frozen any of my paint that I have noticed..But saying that I wouldnt be out spraying in that temp anyways LOL...Unless it gets really really cold, I wouldnt stress to much, or maybe just get a little polystyrene fruit crate to store em in if ya worried..if anything I do that to keep em in a dark place, not that that prob matters either but UV and paint are prob a worse concern for me, especially with paint colors I may not use a lot of and may sit for a yr or two.....

Quite regulary many of us do candy over white, its a pretty common thing to do, personaly if I plan to candy I use the same paint throughout..Some mix uro's over waterbased fine and in that essence what ya wanna do is just paint as usual your bases and white layer, then seal it with a mid clear uro or full clear uro and then candy over that and then reclear..Again many no doubt have not cleared in between the water based and uro as many waterbased paints today are designed to be oversprayed with uro clears so most times no issue doing so but I have had the odd prob here or there so try to stick with the same basic paint type throughout thesedays...GL
 
Thanks for the replies.

for the candys what i am after is the sort of lightning and plasma effects that you see in the vids by Tony D (Airbrush Tricks) but hes sometimes a bit vague (or atleast it seems to me) about the paints and process.

Maybe its just me :)

So if I am in future looking to use the candy on a cycle helmet as an example/practice....using the fine aluminium base would be as good as the medium and possibly flow a little better as well?

Thanks all
 
Tony vague? LOL...Won't touch that. LOLOL..

It really depends on the effect you want and what your wanting to do? when I candy I am generally not candying the actual car/bike itself if that makes sense, I'd call it more tinting the opaque white artwork..

For eg if your doing a helmet and not changing say the base metallic black its already painted..You do your white artwork on top, get say a red candy, paint that over the whole piece, it will barely change the look of the black but will tint/candy the artwork..

Say you want to do the same job on a red metallic helmet, you spray your white then again candy red over it, be aware the candy will also shade down the original red of the helmet a frag but again will achieve that nice candy look work...When doing this kinda work we generally candy in a similar color gamut to the base. So if the base is blue, likely we use a blue candy over white, red, use an orange or red etc etc..

What I think you crossing wires on is actually basing the helmet of such in candy, not so much the artwork as when we say candy a base it generally wants an aluminium or silver base coat, then layers of candy are painted on top for depth and the correct color desire..the silver or alumium underneth will give it a nice depth and kinda glow, the courser the metallic in the base aluminium the more the sparkley effect..But adding on multiple and multiple layers of candy and going real dark with it prob reduces the effect of that metallic anyway to some degree but I'd prob stick with the fine if doing such just for ease of spray...Then you know have this awesome candy base, you can then spray white on that and then recandy that again to set that artwork into the candy base...So it really depends on what ya doing....

Saying all that though if you spraying on a prepainted base you can use silver as well as white in your artwork or really any of the other metallic style colors to oomph it up, when candied over the difference in the whites and silvers and platinums etc can look pretty cool....

Hope that helps a bit and I'm not just rambling..Not enough morning coffee yet :)

But yer it kinda depends on what ya doing with the candy..
 
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Maybe vague isnt the correct way of putting it, but sometimes vids(a lot of youtube vids) seem to fly through stages as though ppl think "ahhh everyone knows this bit. moving on" which can be a pain if you dont know and are trying to follow and replicate.

I'll explain a test project i want to try:

I have a helmet which i have prep'd and primed (almost done thanks to a previous post on this forum), now i want the whole helmet to be just a basic colour say black. then i want to airbrush a name but have this name in a bright yellow candy. Would the choice of base then dictate how bright the yellow was and how it looked....for example...i assume that candy yellow on a white opaque background would look different to candy yellow on fine Alu base.

So what i am asking in a very long winded way :) is should i buy the Alu base and use it or will a opaque white do when all i want is bright yellow text or would a normal wicked yellow do just as well. I am only looking at candys due to reading so much net stuff saying how amazingly bright candy is and thinking ohhh that would look good. :D

thanks again for your help.
 
Hi all

1. My paints are kept in the garage which is quite cold at the moment. Should i store them in a warmer place or does it not effect the paint performance when i use them.

2. I was looking at getting some autoair candys just to have a play around but noticed Base Coat Sealers and Aluminium Base in Fine/Medium/Heavy..Do I actually need a base as i will be spraying over white Opaque.

Thanks

Paint has to be stored at least 65 degrees F , If it freezes it is shot.
Also is the paint in the garage urethane of water based?

The sealer is for mainly working on metal. works as a base coat. but you can use AutoAir candy with out it. As Cory Saint Clair shows in his vid on Coast Airbrush Tv Monochromatic Candy Portrait w/ Cory Saint Clair
 
LOL Soz, didn't mean to make you clarify what ya meant, was just having a laugh as me and Tony maybe arn't maybe the best of budz LOL..But onto more important things :)

On your project, my thoughts and maybe someone else can give ya some better idea..There are many ways to go about what your trying to do, but each has a difference pending on what ya after...

Painting a solid white base for your name/logo or a silver base will give you two varying results..The solid white base will actually be brighter, almost neon like pending on the yellow you use...On a silver base it won't be quite as bright as obviously white is brighter than silver but the metallic in the silver/aluminium will give you a sparkle to the yellow..It will still be bright but not as bright on the pure white base...

You could have also considered from the start doing the ali base first frisketing or stenciling of the name in yellow, reverse the frisket or stencil and base over the ali with black transparent until you build it to the depth you want so that would add a candy look to the base as well..peel off the frisket and you would have a candy look to both the yellow and black base..

You can also instead of say a solid white for the logo or name do a gradiated style so some of the background black still comes through a touch, add some silvers and paltinums and some bronzes or such metallics to that white layer, give it all a nice depth, then candy it yellow by again frisketing everything off..

Just a cple idea's, again there are heaps of other similar ways to go about it and each will look slightly different and as herb mentioned lots of good videos showing basic candy work as it is a staple of airbrushing, why not try out a few practice hits on a bit of primed black scrap metal and see what suits ya desire the best...GL
 
Maybe vague isnt the correct way of putting it, but sometimes vids(a lot of youtube vids) seem to fly through stages as though ppl think "ahhh everyone knows this bit. moving on" which can be a pain if you dont know and are trying to follow and replicate.

I'll explain a test project i want to try:

I have a helmet which i have prep'd and primed (almost done thanks to a previous post on this forum), now i want the whole helmet to be just a basic colour say black. then i want to airbrush a name but have this name in a bright yellow candy. Would the choice of base then dictate how bright the yellow was and how it looked....for example...i assume that candy yellow on a white opaque background would look different to candy yellow on fine Alu base.

So what i am asking in a very long winded way :) is should i buy the Alu base and use it or will a opaque white do when all i want is bright yellow text or would a normal wicked yellow do just as well. I am only looking at candys due to reading so much net stuff saying how amazingly bright candy is and thinking ohhh that would look good. :D

thanks again for your help.

Unlike true candies , AutoAir candies are pigment candies. which mean you will have to stay right on the area you want to have a candy look to it. The brighter the white you do the lettering the bright the Yellow will look.
Where as HOK Kandies (example) on the black base coat with the white letters , The more layers you lay down the richer and deeper the color becomes.
Hope that make sense.
 
Paint has to be stored at least 65 degrees F , If it freezes it is shot.

I haven't come across this before Herb in our type of paints (heard of it in latex paints) and have rarely had any of my paint freeze to find out and am interested in knowing why it would be buggered incase someone asks me in the future? :)
 
I haven't come across this before Herb in our type of paints (heard of it in latex paints) and have rarely had any of my paint freeze to find out and am interested in knowing why it would be buggered incase someone asks me in the future? :)

Well my first year of airbrushing , My wife came down with cancer and I dropped everything to be there for her and the kids. So needless to say my paints (the small amount I had then) stayed in the garage. and froze . When thing claimed down I went out and brought them in the house. let them thaw thinking they should be fine. But when I shook them up and poured them out it looked like I have seeds in it. the binders can not handle being frozen. is what Createx told me.
That is why it is listed on most paint products to store in temps above 65F
So I now use that as one of my golden rules.
 
Ah cheerz m8, didn't think about the binders..Maybe adding some glycol to the paint may help? Or break out an eyedropper of antifreeze LOL..
 
I can't really ad much on using AA candies, as it isn't a true dye it acts a lot different then HOK or any urethane kandy. With uro, if you spray over white base or a yellow base, it will be brighter and take less saturation of kandy for the effect. White will give you the same results as yellow, just take more passes. If you are looking for reflective in the the sun, You either need to spray a pearl over the base or use a silver or gold metallic base prior to the kandy. Kandy will still glow without a pearl, as that's how all my real fire is done, it just adds another dimension to it. Being uro uses dye, it will not show up sprayed over black and each pass gets richer and darker. It would take a ton of coats to ever see it over the black and would only be visible in pure sunlight. As far as AA kandy goes, I've never messed with it but from what i've seen it needs to go over a base that is similar to the color. For example if you are spraying a red "kandy" the base needs to be a pinkish color. So for yellow it would need to be a pastel like yellow, white with some yellow added. Since it isn't a dye, it will probably show up over black a lot faster so masking or careful application would be needed. Sounds like a test panel is in order.
 
ok thanks all...its making a lot more sense now.

Moving the paint into my study isnt a big problem as i have them in a box but if I keep buying paint i'm going to need a bigger box.

The helmet i am using now is an old one for testing so I can scrub down the primer i have on it and add an auto-air base to my shopping list which is getting longer and longer :)

Again thanks all.

PS just been reading this and they make the Alu base sound hopeless :)
http://www.graphicair.co.uk/products/Auto-Air-Aluminium-Base-%2d-Fine.html
Maybe getting the Metallic Silver would better suit me at the moment.
 
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I always keep all of my paint in the house (where my paint room is), and also out of direct sun light, im just anal like that :smile-new:
 
this biz about paint freezing etc..... marissa said/recommends that once a paint has been mixed with either a water or reducer/flow enhancer such as reduce air.... it should be kept in a sealed container in the fridge.... this will stop the polymers of the paint breaking down and should keep your paint well for up to 3 months.... dont get me wrong im not talking about fresh paint out of the bottle , this is only when it has been mixed up already
 
this biz about paint freezing etc..... marissa said/recommends that once a paint has been mixed with either a water or reducer/flow enhancer such as reduce air.... it should be kept in a sealed container in the fridge.... this will stop the polymers of the paint breaking down and should keep your paint well for up to 3 months.... dont get me wrong im not talking about fresh paint out of the bottle , this is only when it has been mixed up already
being most fridges do not hit freezing temps that might be true with certain paints . But the best thing to do if you have questions like this is contact the paint MFG. they should know how their paint will react to this.
I have been told over and over again by a lot of the pros not to do this . Again what works for some may not work for all.
 
There's a good reason to store your paints in the Fridge after being mixed with water, especially tap water as the bacteria within the water will grow and turn into your very own culture you can be a god of but most paint containers say store in a dark place below 25C so it could indeed also be due to other issues..but yer it may pay to check as each paint no doubt has its own differences...I personly would get in trouble if I took over the fridge aswell so these days I ensure not to pre-mix myself more paint than what I'll use in a week or so and haven't really had any issues with any bacterial growth since and I store my paints in a dark cool spot and have never really seen any more issues, even a year or two later when I finally need fluro pink again :)...
 
ok thanks all...its making a lot more sense now.

Moving the paint into my study isnt a big problem as i have them in a box but if I keep buying paint i'm going to need a bigger box.

The helmet i am using now is an old one for testing so I can scrub down the primer i have on it and add an auto-air base to my shopping list which is getting longer and longer :)



Again thanks all.

PS just been reading this and they make the Alu base sound hopeless :)
Auto Air Aluminium Base - Fine - Graphic Air
Maybe getting the Metallic Silver would better suit me at the moment.

Why not just use the bada bling silver, it is easy to lay and will look great under "kandy" I don't know why you are so bent on using the alumibase, I have heard it pulls easily with tape and it's not a requirement to use under kandy. Any silver will do, or gold, all you really need to be after is how much sparkle you want under it. If you want the red to really be flashy and dance in the sun, def use the bada bling, it nearly looks like flake paint.
 
lol i'm not bent on using the ali base...

But perhaps foolishly i assumed that if there is a base made for the paint i want to use then thats the base i should be using. But i do already have the silver paint on my shopping list so its all good now.
 
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