acrylic vs solvent white

T

triumph1050

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I'am realy tired to deal with the white paint in Illustration or Wicked line of painted for my automotive and motorcycle work. When i paint on a black background, i have to establish my foundation with white and i'am frustrated to always have to deal with clog and tip dry. I would want to try a solvent base paint like urethane white base and after that i could established my colors with Illustration or Wicked paint. But is solvent white paint work better than acrylic tip of paint? I would realy like to take paint mixed with 50:50 reducer and work whit the white as if it was water.....
 
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It should be better but it will still tip dry.


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HOK ,SEM , and most urethane will still give as much and sometimes more tip dry than the waterbased.
How long have you been air brushing?
Being I do not see an introduction with some back ground on you , I have to say you need more practice , Not only in dots daggers strokes and such but learning the paint system you are using.
From the threads you have started you seem to be looking for a magic paint that has no tip dry. It is not happening.
Air blowing paint drys paint. simple. Learning how the paint you have works is part of the practice time you have to do as well.

As for going to urethane , You need a good ventilated area , a mask rated for the paint you are using and in some cases even a full body suit depending on the ISO rating of the paint.
So I say pick 1 paint brand and learn it. Right now you have 4 threads 3 of which ask paint brand questions. Etac is a great paint and has the least amount of tip dry.
Com-art is great paint ready to shoot straight out the bottle
If I come across harsh well I guess I can be at time. But it does get old when you answer the same question over and over again and a search will pull up a lot of thread on each paint brand you have asked about.
 
Herb, thanks you but it would be easier for you to simply tell me: stop to disturb everybody here and practice. It's a forum and i think my question was clear and justificative. I know that i ask lots of question about paint, but this this one was a out urethane. First time i ask about that. Thank you very much......
 
Herb, thanks you but it would be easier for you to simply tell me: stop to disturb everybody here and practice. It's a forum and i think my question was clear and justificative. I know that i ask lots of question about paint, but this this one was a out urethane. First time i ask about that. Thank you very much......

You still did not get the meaning of my post ..

Post a introduction , tells us how long you have been painting. What equipment you have and are using.
These are thing that can help us help you. Asking random questions about paint is alright But with out knowing how long you have been at it. Well it is like beating a dead horse , No point to it.
With out knowing what air compressor you are using and at what air pressure you are trying to shoot at when you get the tip dry does not give us room to help you make correction to how you are trying to paint.
What is the weather like Hot and dry ? Hot and humid , Cold and wet .
All that plays into how any paint will react and how much tip dry you will get.

Now do you see my point.. Information is only as good as the details of the question. No detail can equal poor information.
And my answer was clear as well , Given the information you provided I answered you . Urethane paint still has tip dry . depending on the time of year I am using it here where I live it can be mild to extreme.
But you have to buy the equipment to make you and those around you safe when using urethane paint.
 
also dont use illustration paint for automotive!?!?!? its not light fast like wicked is, its intended for illustration and fine art
 
however with the right prep and base coats.... etac can be used for automotive
 
Herb you big meanie!! lmao

Seriously though, what Micron is so eloquently trying to say is all equipment is different in subtle ways and paints can be extremely different that is why when a person joins us we ask for an intro with where your from, what you paint or wish to paint and what equipment so we can answer questions better.

Now again as Micron stated each paint has different characteristics and sprays differently depending on what PSI you use, what needle and nozzle you airbrush is set up for, ect. So you can see why we ask so many questions.....it is only so we can do what we are here for.....to learn and help others along the way!
 
also dont use illustration paint for automotive!?!?!? its not light fast like wicked is, its intended for illustration and fine art

Yes Illustration is light fast. Go on the Createx web.
[QUOTE Createx Illustration Colors™ are a refined, water-based airbrush colors optimized for true fine-line, detailed performance while allowing for re-wettable effects and subtle erasing techniques. Illustration Colors are lightfast and durable. No reduction necessary. Illustration Colors atomize and spray excellent through small airbrush tip sizes down to 0.15mm at low psi settings straight out of the bottle][/QUOTE]

OK Mr. Micron. I'have been airbrushing since 5 years, but very sparingly. I airbrush about 2-3 week in a years, since the last 5 years. But this year, i have a new garage and i airbrush 3-4 night/week. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, HP-C, HP-B+ and a Micron CM-SB. The paint i use is Createx Wicked and Illustrator. I use ComArt too but just on Canvas. My compressor is a standard Campbell hausfeld with a 2 gallons tank, and 3 moistures trap inline. The temperature in my garage is always to 20 celcius and it's relatively dry air. I've try to reduce 1/1, 2/1 (reducer/paint), 5/1 and 10/1. but when i over reduce, i have to pass 10 time at the same place to have the cover i want. I've try to vary my air pressure, from 5 to 40 PSI, but at the begining of my session the tip dry is not so bad but after somes minutes, it's realy bad.
Et voila....

Thank you
 
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Yes Illustration is light fast. Go on the Createx web.

OK Mr. Micron. I'have been airbrushing since 5 years, but very sparingly. I airbrush about 2-3 week in a years, since the last 5 years. But this year, i have a new garage and i airbrush 3-4 night/week. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, HP-C, HP-B+ and a Micron CM-SB. The paint i use is Createx Wicked and Illustrator. I use ComArt too but just on Canvas. My compressor is a standard Campbell hausfeld with a 2 gallons tank, and 3 moistures trap inline. The temperature in my garage is always to 20 celcius and it's relatively dry air. I've try to reduce 1/1, 2/1 (reducer/paint), 5/1 and 10/1. but when i over reduce, i have to pass 10 time at the same place to have the cover i want. I've try to vary my air pressure, from 5 to 40 PSI, but at the begining of my session the tip dry is not so bad but after somes minutes, it's realy bad.
Et voila....

Thank you
Now was that so hard:D
You say your garage is dry meaning you either heat with a wood store or you run a dehumidifier?
I have just started painting in a temporary shop that I heat with Wood and I noticed a lot more tip dry due to the dryer heat. So I place a pot of water on the wood store and it cut out most of my tip dry problem.
Right now I am not thinking it is so much the paint being the issue as the dry air. Dry air will suck moisture where ever it can.
As far as having to make multiple passes to build your color to the intensity you want it , I call normal and most on here will agree.
But having not seen any of your art work I can only go by what I do and how I paint.
Is this only on White or all colors you are getting the tip dry on?
I do know that during the summer months when I use HOK or SEM or whatever Urethane I have at the time White still gives me tip dry. So I am trying to get an understanding of what you are talking about.
You have great airbrushes , You are using good paint . the main thing that sounds like it has changed it the location you are painting in. which is why I mentioned the humidity rating in the area and asked how it is heated.
I assume you did not have this problem when you were painting at the other location?
 
i will put in my 2 cents even though i love etac efx white i stil get tip dry a wee bit i think tip dry is something that wil always be a problem especialy with whites if your trying to make a dark collor white letsay turn a section of a red fender on a car white to do a portrait you ashould use a white sealer base like auto air has and that will have tip dry etac efx white is my favorite white of all but it has a semi transparent quality and is re wetable so on humid days if you paint a smooth surface like glass or slightly wet sanded auto surface you should hit it with a heat source like a blow dryer to dry it good before clearing . one last thing etac private stock is awesome paint you will get tip dry with it but one thing about etac is it lays down super smooth looks like wet sanded laquer so after you paint with it and clear it it should look beautifullike silk so not much wet sanding tip dry is something to get use to like tatoo artists dip there guns i keep a ball of cotton moist handy and just lightly wipe my tip constantly
 
Now was that so hard:D
You say your garage is dry meaning you either heat with a wood store or you run a dehumidifier?
I have just started painting in a temporary shop that I heat with Wood and I noticed a lot more tip dry due to the dryer heat. So I place a pot of water on the wood store and it cut out most of my tip dry problem.
Right now I am not thinking it is so much the paint being the issue as the dry air. Dry air will suck moisture where ever it can.
As far as having to make multiple passes to build your color to the intensity you want it , I call normal and most on here will agree.
But having not seen any of your art work I can only go by what I do and how I paint.
Is this only on White or all colors you are getting the tip dry on?
I do know that during the summer months when I use HOK or SEM or whatever Urethane I have at the time White still gives me tip dry. So I am trying to get an understanding of what you are talking about.
You have great airbrushes , You are using good paint . the main thing that sounds like it has changed it the location you are painting in. which is why I mentioned the humidity rating in the area and asked how it is heated.
I assume you did not have this problem when you were painting at the other location?

Mr. Micron, i use a standard electric heater like we find in our house (don't know how do you name it in english, i'am french). The humidity in my garage?...Hummmm, i don't know. Tomorow i'll gonna buy an hygrometer to check it, but my garage is a brand new consturuction from past summer, so i'am assuming that the humididy should not be so low.
I'am to paint an Harley-Davidson fearing at this moment. The fearing is black, and the skull and bike i paint on it is in color, so i build all my layout in white. I use Illustration, reduce 2/1 (reducer/paint) with my HP-C (not the plus model but the 50th anniversary, so the old one) and i have lot of difficulty to paint with the white. I don't know if it's just tip dry, because i can clean my needle with fingernail or a toothbrush, and as soon as i start again to paint, the paint don't want to flow.... i shake it, backflush it, nothing to do. I lost half of my paint in my airbrush bowl just by flush it every 10 second....
Don't know what to do. Tomorrow i'll try Wicked detail white and try to find a ''not so bad'' thined ratio...
This is the last portrait i've did with my CM-SB and illustrator paint. Not to much tip dry, not use white for this one....

 
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I use wicked opaque white, and wicked reducer at 3 to 5 drops reducer to one white, and between 15 to 20 psi depending on conditions. I get very, very little little tip dry, but do make a few passes to get the brightness of white I want. It took quite abit of experimenting to get the "feel" of using white, but now I find it better than black.
 
Your art work is outstanding.
Are you using the W500 or have you tried it yet?
But white has a lot of tip dry and it seems even worse the dryer the air . Electric heaters also can dry out the air as well .
But I do understand you problem , I mix the W100 and the W500 reducer into the Illustration white. It gives it better flow and almost no tip dry . But either one on their own seem to still have tip dry.
Might also give that a go.
Is their a local paint shop where you can pick up a small bottle of enamel white or urethane? Please make sure you wear a spray mask . But if it is a dry air issue that will make it really show up with a lot more tip dry.
 
Squishy, what are the diff between using wicked opaque or wicked detail? I was thinking that detail white would be better to flow in an airbrush.

Mr. Micron, thank you for your words on my painting. But here were i live in Canada, during winter the temp is in the -20 celcius outdore, so i don't have any choice to heat my garage. I,ll double check the humidity and if it is too low, i'll place an humidifier to raise it a little more.
 
Oh, negatif for the w500 reducer. Never try it yet. I don't want to taking chance to order them now, i will recieve it completly frozen. I'll wait until month of april, the weather here will be hotter. Hope this reducer will help a bit...
 
Yes Illustration is light fast. Go on the Createx web.
[QUOTE Createx Illustration Colors™ are a refined, water-based airbrush colors optimized for true fine-line, detailed performance while allowing for re-wettable effects and subtle erasing techniques. Illustration Colors are lightfast and durable. No reduction necessary. Illustration Colors atomize and spray excellent through small airbrush tip sizes down to 0.15mm at low psi settings straight out of the bottle]

ah excellent im glad you where able to prove me wrong....your portraits are excellent and have there own style to them
 
Squishy, what are the diff between using wicked opaque or wicked detail? I was thinking that detail white would be better to flow in an airbrush.

Mr. Micron, thank you for your words on my painting. But here were i live in Canada, during winter the temp is in the -20 celcius outdore, so i don't have any choice to heat my garage. I,ll double check the humidity and if it is too low, i'll place an humidifier to raise it a little more.

I just find the opaque easier to use, if you over reduce you can get the same sort of translucent look as the white detail if that's what you want, and it goes on satin smooth. I find the detail paints can have teeny gloopy bits, especially if it's been open awhile, and always filter them, but I usually prefer them to the opaque colours as the opaques can have that chalky look, and the detail is much brighter and cleaner. But it's not an issue with the opaque white. Also I really would recommend the W500 reducer. It is meant to combat tip dry better than the W100, (though I think they are very similar in that regard,) but it also has many other benefits such as quicker drying, harder curing, better paint flow. I think you would notice quite a difference.
 
Thank you Squishy, i've try wicked opaque white mixed 5/1 (w100/paint) at about 20psi, and it's not too bad. Better than with Illustrator paint. I'll wait until spring and order the w500 high performance reducer and give a try to the Trident paint too. Curious about trying it.

And Mr. Micron, the humidituy in my shop is 57%. Not too bad.

Here's what i did today
 

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Thank you Squishy, i've try wicked opaque white mixed 5/1 (w100/paint) at about 20psi, and it's not too bad. Better than with Illustrator paint. I'll wait until spring and order the w500 high performance reducer and give a try to the Trident paint too. Curious about trying it.

And Mr. Micron, the humidituy in my shop is 57%. Not too bad.

Here's what i did today

Dude that is killer work. I want to give the trident a go as well being I have heard from others who have used it that is sprays like urethane.
57% is not bad at all ,
On the W500 I was told by someone at createx that is you mix 1 part W100 to 3 parts W 500 that the paint would spray like a urethane. I have to agree with them being I get a lot better flow and hardly any tip dry when using both , vs just using one or the other.
 
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