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Advice for Createx adhesion on lexan

Discussion in 'Airbrush Paints' started by lifeofbrian77, Aug 15, 2017.


  1. lifeofbrian77

    lifeofbrian77 Young Tutorling

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    I've tried a few test strips and I am fairly happy with the paint, I can bend the lexan and mask it with no problem, but it does scratch off easier than I'd like. I tried putting down clear Autoborne Sealer first but that made no difference. I have a piece that I painted three weeks ago and that comes off just as easy as the one I did today. I compared the Createx paint to a pre painted FTX bodyshell, and I'd say that the pre painted shell is twice as tough on scratches. Could it be that I'm putting it on too thick and not giving it chance to cure properly? I don't think I am but maybe Createx needs a very thin coat, every time I use Tamiya lexan paint in a spray can I just chuck it on and go.
  2. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    4030 will definitely harden the paint more.
    I know the thicker the paint is the easier it erases and scratches so maybe try just a dusting.
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  3. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Hmmm as far as I know the autoborne sealer should chemically bond (? may be an assumption on my part) with a surface and that is why it needs no primer etc. How are you reducing? Are you using 4012? This really helps dry the paint, and gives a tougher cure. I'm not as experienced with 4030, but I believe this helps even more. If layers aren't dry before the next goes on then it could come off I guess. Have you tried giving it a quick blast of air with the airbrush just to make sure? I've layed down some pretty thick paint before but admittedly not on lexan. Was it degreased etc first?
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  4. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    I have seen many recommendations for some additive when spraying on lexan... It might have been the 4030? I'd have to go hunt it down.
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  5. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    are you scuffing first ?
    1000 grit sand paper and just lightly scuff inside *not the windows*
  6. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    Thats a good tip as well- I think some people use a scotchbrite pad and get good results.
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  7. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    You paint lexan, if he is talking about RC body shells, on the inside so you can not scuff it.
  8. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    A mate of mine scuffs the inside of his rc bodies.. I'm not 100% sure what it's made of though
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  9. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    I did a quick search and I see people do scuff the insides. That is new to me. But some say that it needs to be done lightly otherwise you see the scuff marks.
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  10. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Ultra fine steel wool maybe ? The same stuff they use for French polishing?
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  11. lifeofbrian77

    lifeofbrian77 Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I forgot to mention that I'm painting radio control car bodies on the inside, so most of the time I'm looking for a super glossy look.

    Taking a look at the pre painted body I bought, I'd say it has been lightly scuffed, I also remember reading that 4030 can help adhesion. I'll try these two and see what happens. :thumbsup:

    Brian.
  12. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    @Brian the last coast airbrush live @ 5 (3rd August) had an rc lexan demo that may be worth watching, he used an auto air sealer amongst other things.
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  13. lifeofbrian77

    lifeofbrian77 Young Tutorling

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    Cheers, I'll check it out.

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  14. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    The gloss will come from the outside of the shell, not from what you paint on the inside of it. Unless you use coarse sandpaper your prep shouldn't show through
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  15. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    You don't want to use anything too harsh- most people I know use a scotchbrite pad and *lightly* scuff it. Also make sure to wash the body with dish detergent- mold release agents can really screw up a paint job. A good "basecoat" (painted after you do everything else) also helps with chipping.
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  16. lifeofbrian77

    lifeofbrian77 Young Tutorling

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    When I scuff the body, do I use circular motions or back and forth, or doesn't it matter?

  17. Jurien72

    Jurien72 Have Airbrush - Will Travel!

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    Hmm... thats a good question. I'd start off with a circular motion :)
  18. IPT

    IPT Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    Hm, I have done many bodies and never scuffed any of them. I use all Createx and then just rattle can clear to lock it all in. I have had bodies tear the paint just tore with it, never let loose or pealed. Just make sure you wash the in side to get all the model releasing oils off and you should have no issues. Also, yes, make sure you don't spray too much at once. Layers are your friend here (like most AB work).

    1_MG_2331_zpselrp85h3.jpg

    Blue-n-white_T2A5110_zpseb98e5bi.jpg

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    matte_MG_2748_zpsej9ez4zy.jpg

    Matte_MG_2771_zpsigvshijr.jpg

    photo 2_zps0fldvegc.jpg

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    True-fire-RC-2_zpsydzdr8vp.jpg

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    wheels_MG_2349_zps2jbohecw.jpg
  19. IPT

    IPT Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    A few more.....

    All tore up, but the paint stuck!

    trashed_zpsgtwgmpmz.jpg


    t_MG_2375_zps4mv7rbxk.jpg


    t_MG_1944_zpsp51ng8in.jpg

    Practice panel on 8x10 lexi from Lowes. Cost about 4 dollars I think and I just used tape to mask
    off small sections.

    test-panel_zps0wu9dfr6.jpg
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  20. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    They look fantastic and you painted them backwards?

    Lee

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