Airbrush day 2 questions

R

Ryoko

Guest
Now that I have a few sheets of paper with lines and dots on them, I hoped to ask a few questions to all of the experts. My airbrush is a Master Airbrush G23. There are different adjustments, and some that were not documented in the 'instruction' pamphlet. the issue I ran into last night was with lines.

Ok, Ideally you start moving with air on, then paint on, finally keep moving with just air. Imagine if I started air+paint and THEN started moving. It would leave a blob/dot at the start. Now lets see what happened to me, I started correctly, moving +air first then paint then snap paint off air still on never stopping moving. Each time I snap the paint off I get a blob, exactly the reverse of the typical mistake I described above. I made many lines and concentrated on the technique and I'm certain that at the end the paint was cut off but air still on and I never stopped moving.

So do I need to adjust something, or do I have a bad airbrush? I tried thinning the paint with water but it did not change things. If it is a defect with the brush then I still have time to send it back and maybe go with another higher quality brand. The tutorial page lists the iWatta revolution and eclipse range along with the badger chrome as good beginner brushes. Would I notice a difference between them or are they pretty much the same in their range. I prefer a gravity feed and would like to graduate to fine line detail work at some point. Hoping one of these will do well there. Iwata Eclipse CS seems a very popular choice.


Now with air, do all of you go full air on/off or do you vary it? Maybe I did not get there in the tutorials yet for that answer.

Thanks again all.
-Ry
 
I reckon there's some crud in the nozzle, so the needle isn't seating properly, letting more paint out when you snap off. if the paint was a bit too thick when you first started running it through, or if there was a bit of goop (straining the paint with some panty hose is a good habit to get into) it could cause enough of a blockage to mess things up. A good clean should sort things out, and then when you think it's clean, repeat just to make sure. Nothing worse than getting frustrated because of an invisible speck of old paint that you couldn't see was there (experience talking lol)

Of all the cheapie brushes, the Masters seem to be fairly good, but if you are thinking about upgrading, I would definitely recommend the eclipse HP-CS. (although we all have our favourites) Until recently it was my only brush and it has never let me down, a real versatile work horse. It's .35 nozzle is very forgiving with paint compared to some of the smaller ones, yet it is capable capable of really fine detail when you get to know it. It's great to learn on, but you won't outgrow it either. Parts are hard wearing, and long lasting, and it is easy to maintain. I can't think of anyone who regretted upgrading. Branded brushes are much more reliable, and consistant, and make learning that much easier.
 
Air on full all the time,trigger all the way down. If you want less air you have to use the regulator or Mac valve to adjust.
That said I'm sure others might be able to control it differently, but for ease of learning I would go with the first statement.
 
Yup dont try regulating your air with the down press. It can be done on some brushes but most cant.

Would agree it might be junk buildup. Or your easing off your trigger.

Hp cs is my favorite brush, enough so its the only brush i carried on vacation. I own a krome too and its a fabulous brush. The hp cs is just so utterly versatile. Does everything like a jack of all trades, not the best at any one thing.
 
Thanks, I will keep the air full on. Seems easier also. As for the brush, I thought I cleaned it well but then again I guess it does not take much like you all said. Still given the chance I'm going to get one of those Eclipse HP-CS brushes. It may not make me an artist, but at least I will know it won't be the part hindering me. This isn't like learning to golf where a cheap set of clubs will get you by, plus I don't think the G23 will last up to those 1' long divots :whistling:

Thank you again, and soon hopefully I will have more than dots and lines on the paper
 
First. Break down your Brush and soak your nozzle and the tip of your brush (NOT the entire brush) in some Cleaner (If your paint has a dedicated system?
If not, Try Iso Alcohol. This beaks down Water Bourne dried paint well. Acatone is another But yet tried it myself.

For regulating air, Well, you just take your rubber hose in your left hand and fold it over. Depress for air holding your brush in your right hand and start to squeeze to get a feel for how far you have to squeeze the pipe before your chocking down to your desired psi. You'll be surprised how far you have to go before you notice air pressure dropping off.
If you need both hands, You can still hold both Brush and hose whilst choking down.............Ol'Skool lol

P.S Not recommended on Hard line piping. Rubber line is perfectly fine.

Dan
 
Thanks KustomCandy. I'll try out the alcohol first if my cleaning last night did not fix the brush. I did not get a chance to try it after the clean. Tip only, that is how I did it though I'm glad you mentioned not to submerge as I might have tried that at some point. I also did some sort of back flush thing I read about, spraying and then putting my finger on the nozzle. Seems to work as it pulls paint into the cup when it bubbles.

As for the airflow I believe I misled you all (sorry). I do have a regulator inline on my airsystem along with a moisture trap. I just watched some tutorials and noticed the artist occasionally using different amounts of the air trigger so I wasn't sure if I needed to know anything there.
 
Back flushing is fine, Even recommended.
If your using AA or wicked, Get hold of a bottle of 'Restorer'. This stuff breaks down the paint well. Its also reusable! Tho, You must clean your gear up with thorough fresh water flushing. Its kind of oily so take a bit.

Dan
 
Back
Top