All gummed up..



Total AB newbie, learning the lessons about cleanup the hard way.
I have been using some acrylics (water based and whatever Tamiya is) and also Lacquers.
I think I now have potentially multiple and alternating layers of build up down inside the brush, like under the trigger button and along the shaft where the needle goes. I know I have spilled the cup back onto my trigger button, and then down inside of course before.

I usually have to dip the needle in lacquer thinner before I can get it to slide into the AB so I know something ain't clean.
I am hesitant to just soak the entire AB in thinner since I don't know if there are any seals or other things inside that might not take kindly to that kind of solvent.

So, is there something I can soak the entire AB in that will break up whatever is down inside it?
Are there different KINDS of stuff I can do this with to alternately break up one or the other types of paint that are likely down in there clogging it up?
Like mineral spirits overnight, then windex or Isopropyl Alch the next night, etc?

I don't want to ruin this thing but I want to get it back to where it was before I started "learning" with it.
What airbrush is it? Creeatex restorer would likely be the ticket for you.

I believe he has three master series airbrushes so we can be happy it wasn't a micron;)

Thorough cleaning is absolutely crucial with airbrushes, I haven't used tamiya paints but if I'm not mistaken these could be oil based? If they are and you mix residue from these with water based you will end up with a lot of hard to clean gunge, these brushes will defiantly have rubber seals but if you can get spares at all take the cold seals out and soak the brush without seals in restorer or cellulose thinners and clean afterwards with your standard airbrush cleaners, since these brushes are fairly cheap you could also just give up on it and replace it if you want or need to.

If you decide to get seriously into airbrushing and as a result step up to a decent high end brush, you cannot allow this kind of thing to happen, learn all you can about proper cleaning and maintenance before you even consider a top range brush, I'm glad it happened to a cheaper brush, the damage to your pocket could have been colossal;)
I started with generic brushes like you and they're great for learning how to use /clean/maintain things.
learn how to clean it with the appropriate cleaner for the type of paint you are using. Never spray solvents/isopropyl into the air, always into a cleaning station (easy to make your own) that shyt isn't good to breath in.
I made all my learning curves on these brushes then binned them when they were acting up too badly because I'd bent the needle tip or nozzle (and you will)
I now have great brushes that I can confidently use with less chance of causing costly damage.
Just let it soak in thinners for about 10 mins. That should dissolve everything in there. You hear a lot of does and don`ts and these comments are all meant to be constructive and mean well. But it can be confusing to some. I have used this method with all my abs - Paasche, Iwata, Rich Pen , and el cheapos if they have ever needed a deep clean and NEVER had a problem with seals. But as you have been advised, clean your gun thoroughly after each session, otherwise you will pay the price later on. Good luck.
These handy 23ml bottles of paints for hobby use are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are completely safe. Can be used on most common model plastics such as styrol resin and styrofoam. Paint can be washed away with plain water if done prior to curing. Available in glossy, flat, translucent colors, plus an exclusive thinner and a flat base.
@MuGGzy I sincerely apologise my friend, please ignore my earlier comment, 40+ years of experience with every type of spray equipment that exists has actually taught me nothing, and it seems that thinners has no adverse affect on rubber whatsoever so feel free to throw your brush in there, in fact, to be on the safe side, throw them all in:thumbsup: