All the things you Mama didn't tell you about your AirBrush !! - Video

[doxiemadnessx4]

Hi guys! Just wanted to share a video with you that some of you may have seen, if you have it's always worth watching another time for review. If you are relativly new to the forum then this is a MUST SEE!!! It's a little lengthy, and there are some wardrobe changes; but as mama says, "all good things take time".

This is not a video about an artist painting and learning their technique. This is a video of Ken 'Badger' Schlotfeldt, who MAKES the Badger Airbrushes !! (If you ask me that is artistry, just in a different form !) From this video learned the differences between gravity feed, siphon feed and side feed. I learned the differences in what they were designed to do. I found out the REAL reason behind .21mm Ultra Fine tip size. Some say size isn't everything, but turns out there are all kinds of meanings behind that statement. :distracted: I was even surprised to learn that there is even a BETTER way to clean your airbrush. Who Knew!?!?!

There's other great info in this video post, but I can't give it all away in my description. I'm just sayin' I highly recommend that you click on the link below, pour yourself a drink and find out some things that you may not have known. You won't regret it! nthego:

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[KenBadger]

Hi guys! Just wanted to share a video with you that some of you may have seen, if you have it's always worth watching another time for review. If you are relativly new to the forum then this is a MUST SEE!!! It's a little lengthy, and there are some wardrobe changes; but as mama says, "all good things take time".

This is not a video about an artist painting and learning their technique. This is a video of Ken 'Badger' Schlotfeldt, who MAKES the Badger Airbrushes !! (If you ask me that is artistry, just in a different form !) From this video learned the differences between gravity feed, siphon feed and side feed. I learned the differences in what they were designed to do. I found out the REAL reason behind .21mm Ultra Fine tip size. Some say size isn't everything, but turns out there are all kinds of meanings behind that statement. :distracted: I was even surprised to learn that there is even a BETTER way to clean your airbrush. Who Knew!?!?!

There's other great info in this video post, but I can't give it all away in my description. I'm just sayin' I highly recommend that you click on the link below, pour yourself a drink and find out some things that you may not have known. You won't regret it! nthego:


Introduction to Airbrushing with Ken Schlotfeldt - YouTube

Heather, I'm touched by your review. A MUST SEE - I'm honored. And you don't how difficult, at my girth, those wardrobe changes are.

Seriously - I'm glad to know you appreciated the information, and did not see it as an infomercial - which it is not nor was it intended to be (after the first 5 minutes of describing how Badger came to be - I think I mention other airbrush brands more than I do Badger). Anyhow - I do appreciate your watching it and finding it worthy of sharing with the 'community'.

 

[CALz AyrWKz]

Ken, that was a great video. On my AB the nozzle doesn't seem to come off and I was concerned whether I should be doing something further to clean it out. Your cleaning instructions cleared that up for me. A very good video for beginners. Thanks.

 

[JHM]

I just watched this video. I'm very new to airbrushing, and I'm leaning towards a bottom feed Badger. The information I've gathered so far is leading me towards Badger 150. Would you recommend the 150 for a newcomer to airbrushing. I also appreciated your honesty, Ken. I have bookmarked the video and intend to watch it again, I may have missed something the first time.

 

[RebelAir]

No doubt your wanting Kens opinion on this , but as the 150 was my very first real gun I would say yes,yes,yes..They're fantastic guns, come with 3 different needles and head assembly's which gives you more room to move on each needle size in comparrison to say a 155 anthem. You can also get a bullet head attachment for the fine needle set-up which assists in producing some very tight lines..You won't be dissapointed I'm sure, this gun has lasted me about 11-12 years without ever needing anything replaced (Even my needles, as they are shrouded which means no bent needles if you accidently drop the bugger) and is still today one of my main workhorses..My thoughts LOL

 

[AndreZA]

The 150 is a great gun. It will outlast you and your children. I've had mine for 17 years (okay I have not used it for 15 of those) and the guy before me for about another 10 to 15.

I would however rather look at the 155. Newer design and you can pick the needle clean with less hassles.

 

[TrashcanDan]

Some good info in there

 

[ZisisBFL]

Amazing video!!!! RESPECT to Ken 'Badger' Schlotfeldt.....a MUST see video for everyone painting with airbrushes!!!

 

[Russ Allen]

You bet, that is a great video, seen it a few times!!! Kens the man!! I thought Mitch had stickied the video once before but maybe Im mistaken. I think all airbrushers should watch it, if nothing else to familiarize yourself with Ken Schlotfeldt because he's one hell of a man that will do anything to help anyone!

 

[EvlSmrk]

Great to see that sort of support in an industry. Bravo.

 

[towniceman]

I've seen this it's a good video thanks for the post.

 

[sudo]

i must be blind. where is the link to the video? is it only for elite members?

 

[Oddball]

I can't see the link either

 

[Heliotropic]

@sudo, @Oddball
Here ya go...

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[Oddball]

Thanks @Heliotropic

 

[createinspain]

Just watched and very interesting. Only thing that I found odd was that he said the cleaner has ammonia in it and everything else I have come across says that it is a big no no for the brass inside the brush? I wish the advice on cleaning was consistent everywhere! I watched the video from the Iwata tech who said to use nail polish remover..... lucky so far that mostly, warm water has done the job for me....

 

[AnnaVlada]

Great video for beginners and a lot of information brought to attention to research more about . Would love to see more of the same quality videos on that subject. Thank you for posting it is my bookmark

 

[Chris g]

Just watched and very interesting. Only thing that I found odd was that he said the cleaner has ammonia in it and everything else I have come across says that it is a big no no for the brass inside the brush? I wish the advice on cleaning was consistent everywhere! I watched the video from the Iwata tech who said to use nail polish remover..... lucky so far that mostly, warm water has done the job for me....

If Its the video by the Iwata technician I'm thinking about he doesn't say spray nail polish remover through the gun, but uses it to clean parts.

 

[Chris g]

I thought the video was great, it answered alot of the questions a newcomer would have and gave some practical tips and I loved the 'straight talking' approach.

There were two things I perhaps would not fully go with (although he was targeting his talk at a specific application / audience of small scale model figure / scene painting).

Firstly that you don't need a tank / reservoir. I take Ken's point that reducing 'pulsing' often cited as a reason for having a tank is not much of an issue as the tubing itself reduces the effect, but having a resovoir has other benefits, as he says it acts a a crude moisture trap and lets you work in longer bursts at higher pressures. Given the small cost differences at the moment I would always go for a compressor with a tank.

The second point is thining with water. I don't have experience of all of the model paints he mentioned, but I know that for some (e.g. Tamiya), you need to use their own thinners. It's something to do with the pigment size, water, (even with drops of various additives), doesn't really work.

Having said that, I still think it's a must see video for the newcomer, and perhaps not so newcomer.

Thanks for posting

 

[Nessus]

Firstly that you don't need a tank / reservoir. I take Ken's point that reducing 'pulsing' often cited as a reason for having a tank is not much of an issue as the tubing itself reduces the effect, but having a resovoir has other benefits, as he says it acts a a crude moisture trap and lets you work in longer bursts at higher pressures. Given the small cost differences at the moment I would always go for a compressor with a tank.

Is there a type of tubing that works better than others for this? I've always used the braided-nylon-over-rubber hoses, and in my experience (my first compressor was a little Badger tankless benchtop model) the hose definitely does not eliminate pulsing.

Also, I dunno if automatic shutoffs are standard on those little tankless AB compressors, but the one I had would shut off if I tried to regulate the pressure to below 35psi or so. Getting a compressor with a tank allowed me to experiment with pressure on my own terms.

To be honest, I hated that little compressor with a passion, and would never personally recommend one regardless of brand or cost. They just seem to be made entirely of downsides. I almost regard them as outright scams.

The second point is thining with water. I don't have experience of all of the model paints he mentioned, but I know that for some (e.g. Tamiya), you need to use their own thinners. It's something to do with the pigment size, water, (even with drops of various additives), doesn't really work.

A lot of modelers thin with water and say it's okay, but my policy is: when in doubt, examine their finished work before taking their methods on board. Might be the technique does work great... or it might be that the guy advocating it has really low standards and thinks sloppy, uneven, grainy paint is "good enough".

I've heard of a lot of modellers thinning with Windex or alcohol too, but after trying both... no, don't do it. They tend to randomly not play nice with various brands or lines of paint. Windex by destroying adhesion/cohesion, and alcohol by curdling (wish I could remember the technical term).

Personally, I'm a "fat over lean" adherent, so I thin either with a clear from the same line, or acrylic floor polish (though for ABing I find floor polish needs to be spiked with a drying aid). I only use a solvent if the clear by itself doesn't get me all the way down to the viscosity I need, and therefore use it sparingly even when ABing. Only times I use a solvent exclusively is when wet blending with a regular fiber brush.

...But yeah: if you're gonna use a solvent, the official one for that brand & line is best/safest.