99% of my airbrushing is with Acrylic paints, I use either those I get from an art store, either in tubes (well thinned) of bottle also well thinned. or the majority of times I use those supplied by Vallejo, either Model Color, thinned or model air used out of the bottle.
They all give excellent coverage and dry very fast.
First question what do you plan on painting? That is the first thing that you need to answer. Half my struggle when I first started ABing was paint so I am gonna help you out. Decide this and base your paint decision off this. You are going to want to after this learn to use a perticular paint system. By doing this it will take away a huge headache when working. You will know how much to reduce or how much trans base to use to get your effects. There are a llot of multi use systems out there now such as etac and wicked paints. I have used etac, wicked, goldens, HOK, Autoair, createx, and even the cheapie bottles from walmarts. Just remember knowing a paint system will help with consistancy. After you have learned a system and feel comfortable expand see if you like some other products. The knowlegde you learned from that system will help you down the road.
I use Maimeri Acrilico. Very nice for airbrushing, but need to be thined a lot. Problems can be only with white colors. When thined properly, they don't cower picture well and sometimes you need to spray it over and over again. When thined not so well they give you very good cower, but cost you cleaning airbrush every couple minutes. :rolleyes-new: Not a problem for me as I do not use white very often.
I've been airbrushing since 1980 and used many different type of paints. Rotring acrylic ink was the best (fines pigmentation) non-solvent paint I ever worked with, but unfortunately it is no longer manufactured. For general purpose and large surfaces I use Createx, because it is cheap and does the job. For portraits that require to spray fine detail I use either Lukas Illu-Color or (by far) my favorite paint: Holbein Aeroflash. I often hear artists say that the latter is expensive, but that depends on the way you work. If there's a lot of overspray, you are bound to use more paint. If you work with low air pressures (14 psi and lower) and close to the surface, there is far less overspray and you will use very small amounts of paint. This image is 65 x 50 cm and so far I've used 30 drops of paint. It is not finished yet, but from experience I can say I will have used 40 drops of Holbein Aeroflash at most when I have completed the painting. This smaller image of A4 size only required 10 drops of paint working very close to the surface using Aeroflash paint. This paint allows to spray extremely fine detail. It works good on airbrush paper and board, but not on hard surfaces like metal. If you plan to do that Createx Wicked is better suited when spraying non-solvent acrylics (with good preparation of the surface).
Createx sprays much better if you dilute it (for Holbein I use 1 : 20, 1 : 10 mix ratios) it and add a drop of ox gall or reducer (I use Rembrandt from Talens) and use low airpressures. It will clog less (less tip dry) and spray better. When spraying severely diluted paint the trade off is that you will have to spray more layers on top of each other. But spraying in more layers gives the image more depth (analog to the glacis techniques the old masters used or spraying candies over layers of paint). So acrylics are fine to use in airbrush, but it also depends on what type of work you intend to airbrush.