Automotive clear coat over Wicked paint

T

TalreauAir

Guest
Does anyone have the same issue i have, when i clear coat with automotive clear over my wicked paints here and there theres like tiny little "bumps" ? is that an air bubble that is surfacing ? ive let my paint air dry for weeks to over reducing them to using a blow dryer in the middle of layers and i STILL get those. anyone know why ? only one thing i havent done yet, was applying a transparent base over the entire pic like Terry Hill did in the dvd promo for the Wicked line. any info is appreciated !
 
How tiny are the bumps mate? Is it like a sandpaper texture or are they bigger than that. Is it actual bubbles or just a bumpy surface like this (look at the glossy part)...
61072_432828573385_579743385_5276812_1064726_n.jpg
 
hey Svee , i cant see the bubbles from your pic, but its like single bumps here and there. its not like orange peel or nothing, the majority of the piece will be smooth to the touch till u hit that small bump. you cant see it with the eye you would have to feel it when ur hand passes by it. I have had larger bumps in the past when i didnt let the wicked paint air dry at all and it shot through the clear like no tomorrow. learned my lesson there but i still get it very minimally still. ill try to send u a pic of what im talking about when i get home.
 
Unless your in a booth environment you can not really guarantee that small dirt particles are not sticking in your clear .Do you tac ragg your work before you clear it ?
 
Does it only do it over the Wicked, or does it happen anywhere?
 
Paint a panel with wicked and another panel with another brand.
Clear them. If only the wicked is bumpy then you know it's the paint.
Maybe you already have and know it's the wicked for sure?
"For automotive refinishing, a durable, catalyzed urethane clear is recommended"
Is this what you use?
You might want to try some Auto Air transparent base as a top coat before clearing.
Hope this helps
 
I have used automotive clear over Wicked Detail and never had 'bubbles'. EVERYONE has had orange peel before, but I would rather have that on clear than base coat.
 
Sounds like a speck of dust to me, and unless you're in a top notch spray booth, it's gonna happen. Should be able to polish it out if you're careful, with a super fine wet and dry, and then maybe some G3.
 
Make sure your spray gun is completely clean. Old particles of past clear will cause dents and bumps in the clear coat. I had that happen once. Was being a little lazy and did not strip apart the gun and fully clean it before reusing, just ran thinner through it and called it good. I had to sand the hell out of the clear coating to get is smooth again.
 
just learning toclear coat. wow different animal. getting a few bumps here and there. think it,s just contaminants, dirt and solidified solids from the clear, kinda like tip dry with the airbrush. but i,m pretty happy for a first atempt. got the startingline from devilbiss. good cheaper guns.
 
Almost forgot.....Make sure your compressor is free of water in the tank. Open the pit*$#^%!*$#^%!*$#^%!*$#^%! and drain the tank. Make sure you have a water seperator on the line and drain it out. Then make sure you have the inline air filters on the air hose. It's a lot of stuff I know, but all is needed.
 
if you have dirt in your clear you can wet sand 2000 grit and then buffing/polishing(i use meguiar's ultimate compound).
Usually you get dirt in the clear after you did spray(dirt land on) so it stay on the top surface, by doing this it remove almost all of it in most case.
A buffing usually fix alot of problem and it make for a showcar finish = $$$. I like to have my clearcoated piece on the sun for a week to harden the clear before i do any buffing.

This also remove orange peel.
Also the startingline spraygun from devilbiss are crap(sorry to tell you that). i have the finishline from devilbiss its the minimum you want for a decent work.
You get just one spray gun its a bit more expensive but well worth it.
Starting line = made in china, finishline made in usa with taiwan parts.

x2 for what Tonysims just said + i like to use a long copper tubing between the compressor and water separator, it help cool the air wich help the water separator doing its work.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top