Badger 100-F-1 Advice

H

Harpic

Guest
Does any one have knowledge of these. I am restoring an old one and just having some minor problems (I think minor any way) in getting if to work finally. I am unable to get fluid to transfer from the cup through the tip and out by the means of the air supply from the head assembly drawing it out by passing over the tip and the suction effect thereon. The fluid passages are clear and the airways are also clear. The only thing missing is the Regulator that fits over the tip, is this important and my other airbrushes work without a "shield"....help? PS Yes I am a novice self-taught but winning slowly, thanks people.
 
Hope someone can help you out, unfortunately I am not familiar with this brush. Photos might help the guys help you though.

The 'regulator' that you mention, if you mean the very end piece that covers the exposed part of the needle, then this is just for protection, the brush should work fine without it, and most people take it off to paint anyway, and just use it to keep safe when not in use. What fluid are you using? If it will not even spray water, then there could be a blocked nozzle. It may look clear, and you might even be able to see through it, but they are precision instruments and need to be spotless. You would be amazed at what can hide in there. Are you getting bubbles in the cup at all. That is the sign of a blockage or air leaking around the head somewhere. Some beeswax or similar on the threads can sort that. Also if it has rubber seals, they may be damaged and need replacing. I know you said the airways are clear, but just in case, the head usually has 3 holes in it, which funnels the air over the tip of the needle, make sure these are clear.

Hope someone with more knowledge of this brush can point you the right way.
 
Hi Harpic, have you checked all your seals? Regulator on the tip? I suspect you are referring to the cap on the end that protects the needle? That's not needed to spray.

As a newbie here can I ask you to go along to the introductions section and say Hi properly? What part of the world are you in? What do you want to paint? Art background? That sort of thing. We like to get to know the people who turn up here. Also check out the nettiquette page on the same link.

http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

Cheers Mark
 
Hi Harpic, have you checked all your seals? Regulator on the tip? I suspect you are referring to the cap on the end that protects the needle? That's not needed to spray.

As a newbie here can I ask you to go along to the introductions section and say Hi properly? What part of the world are you in? What do you want to paint? Art background? That sort of thing. We like to get to know the people who turn up here. Also check out the nettiquette page on the same link.

http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

Cheers Mark
Thanks and doing that now cheers.
 
Hi Harpic, have you checked all your seals? Regulator on the tip? I suspect you are referring to the cap on the end that protects the needle? That's not needed to spray.

As a newbie here can I ask you to go along to the introductions section and say Hi properly? What part of the world are you in? What do you want to paint? Art background? That sort of thing. We like to get to know the people who turn up here. Also check out the nettiquette page on the same link.

http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

Cheers Mark
Thanks so much. The problem seems to be that fluid does not get drawn out of the tip by the action of the air flowing over it. All the fluid passages are clear and I can get fluid to pass through them. Also air passes from the inlet and through the 3 holes in the head no problem. I no seem to have an air leak below the trigger that operates the air inlet valve so I am now chasing that. Typical air leaks fix one get another...many thanks for your help.
 
What paint are you using it might be to thick?also what air pressure are you using to spray the paint?
 
What paint are you using it might be to thick?also what air pressure are you using to spray the paint?
At the moment just a very very thin oil and trying 30 psi. Thanks for your interest.
 
At the moment just a very very thin oil and trying 30 psi. Thanks for your interest.

The more information you give us, the the better and easier we can help you, what basepaint meant was that if we know what specific paint you are using we can tell you if it is intended for airbrushing or not.

Please check out this link and tell us if this is the brush in question, if this is the brush the information there states it has a "fine head" so this could be 0.2 possibly less, when you say "Just a very very thin oil" that doesn't tell us much but I will assume this is an oil paint which has been thinned? it could be that the oil paint you have is not compatible with an airbrush, it's important to understand that all paint contains pigment to give it it's colour, you can thin the paint but you can't thin the pigment, paints that are airbrush specific contain pigment which has been finely ground for the purpose, if you are able to spray water through the brush without a problem I would guess that the paint you are using just isn't fit for the job, if you can't get anything at all through the brush the brush, you could have a damaged seal as a result of the paint being the wrong type and/or a clog because of this paint, even if you up your pressure to 60 psi, you still wouldn't get the wrong paint through your brush, or at least if you could it wouldn't continue for long.

If you still have an air leak at the valve the pressure at the head will less than your gauge is telling you, how much less depends on how bad the leak is and how much air you are losing form the valve.

So please tell exactly what paint you are trying to use, if your brush has rubber seals it is possible they are damaged because of the use of oil based paint and/or your cleaning materials and methods,, but the more we know the quicker and ore precise we can pin point your problem, we need to know the exact paint, the nozzle size if you know it, what you are cleaning with and how and did you use the same brush to do the piece in your introduction thread?
 
Does any one have knowledge of these. I am restoring an old one and just having some minor problems (I think minor any way) in getting if to work finally. I am unable to get fluid to transfer from the cup through the tip and out by the means of the air supply from the head assembly drawing it out by passing over the tip and the suction effect thereon. The fluid passages are clear and the airways are also clear. The only thing missing is the Regulator that fits over the tip, is this important and my other airbrushes work without a "shield"....help? PS Yes I am a novice self-taught but winning slowly, thanks people.

Unlike other airbrushes, iwatas, badger airburshes NEED the regulator or they will not spray. I use Badgers, including several 100s. i got sick of having to take the regulator off to clear tip dry so i ground the regulator down using a dremel. works great but need to be careful b/c there is nothing to save the tip if you drop the brush.
zonker
 
Unlike other airbrushes, iwatas, badger airburshes NEED the regulator or they will not spray. I use Badgers, including several 100s. i got sick of having to take the regulator off to clear tip dry so i ground the regulator down using a dremel. works great but need to be careful b/c there is nothing to save the tip if you drop the brush.
zonker
Thanks and I thought that about the regulator, I take that off when using my other air brushes to clean needle also.
 
The more information you give us, the the better and easier we can help you, what basepaint meant was that if we know what specific paint you are using we can tell you if it is intended for airbrushing or not.

Please check out this link and tell us if this is the brush in question, if this is the brush the information there states it has a "fine head" so this could be 0.2 possibly less, when you say "Just a very very thin oil" that doesn't tell us much but I will assume this is an oil paint which has been thinned? it could be that the oil paint you have is not compatible with an airbrush, it's important to understand that all paint contains pigment to give it it's colour, you can thin the paint but you can't thin the pigment, paints that are airbrush specific contain pigment which has been finely ground for the purpose, if you are able to spray water through the brush without a problem I would guess that the paint you are using just isn't fit for the job, if you can't get anything at all through the brush the brush, you could have a damaged seal as a result of the paint being the wrong type and/or a clog because of this paint, even if you up your pressure to 60 psi, you still wouldn't get the wrong paint through your brush, or at least if you could it wouldn't continue for long.

If you still have an air leak at the valve the pressure at the head will less than your gauge is telling you, how much less depends on how bad the leak is and how much air you are losing form the valve.

So please tell exactly what paint you are trying to use, if your brush has rubber seals it is possible they are damaged because of the use of oil based paint and/or your cleaning materials and methods,, but the more we know the quicker and ore precise we can pin point your problem, we need to know the exact paint, the nozzle size if you know it, what you are cleaning with and how and did you use the same brush to do the piece in your introduction thread?
At moment no paint. Just using water or sometimes very very thin/low viscosity oil as a fluid. There are no blockages and I have found a cut-away section illustration of my air brush so I kn ow exactly where the air and fluid passages are. So waiting for Regulator and a new complete air inlet valve assembly as there was a slight leak past the plunger therein. Thanks for your time and help. I have acrylic water based paints (Vallejo) but not using yet until the brush at least flows water. Cheers.
 
At moment no paint. Just using water or sometimes very very thin/low viscosity oil as a fluid. There are no blockages and I have found a cut-away section illustration of my air brush so I kn ow exactly where the air and fluid passages are. So waiting for Regulator and a new complete air inlet valve assembly as there was a slight leak past the plunger therein. Thanks for your time and help. I have acrylic water based paints (Vallejo) but not using yet until the brush at least flows water. Cheers.

No problem, please keep us updated when your new stuff arrives, your solutions are also handy for folks in the future who might have similar issues, although I don't if the oil you mention is a good idea unless your sure your seals can take it, oily substances will quickly degrade rubber if that's what you have instead of Teflon.
 
No problem, please keep us updated when your new stuff arrives, your solutions are also handy for folks in the future who might have similar issues, although I don't if the oil you mention is a good idea unless your sure your seals can take it, oily substances will quickly degrade rubber if that's what you have instead of Teflon.
Sure thing. The only rubber/Nitrile component is the O-ring seal on the air valve plunger. So no contamination problems. And have found a cut-away section illustration of Badger brushes and using a jewellers loupe and micro LED light I have check the air passages and all clear. Just waiting the new regulator which is mandatory on Badger and the new air valve assembly. Will keep this updated as I work along. Thanks to all, great Forum. Happy painting.
 
Great success! I have now installed a new Air Valve Assembly and a Regulator and this old Badger is nicely restored and working 100%. thanks for all your help guys much appreciated. Now to continue with restoring an old Devilbiss Aerograph Sprite.
 
If you need spares for the sprite you may want to try these people, they own DeVilbiss and have spares for the super 63 and the sprite.

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/airbrush-spares/aerograph-spares.html

Lee
Yes thanks, they are indeed good as I have now used them. Also these guys http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/ are brilliant for Badger spares in the UK, great service and large stocks. Thanks to all and have almost finished the Aerograph, just waiting on nozzle washers ordered yesterday.
 
Yes thanks, they are indeed good as I have now used them. Also these guys http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/ are brilliant for Badger spares in the UK, great service and large stocks. Thanks to all and have almost finished the Aerograph, just waiting on nozzle washers ordered yesterday.

Is restoring these brushes part of your hobby?, it would be nice to see some photos if you have any, before and after would have been really cool and a pretty cool way to learn your way around a brush:thumbsup:
 
Is restoring these brushes part of your hobby?, it would be nice to see some photos if you have any, before and after would have been really cool and a pretty cool way to learn your way around a brush:thumbsup:
Yes part of it, I like restoring lots of things being a retired engineer. I did not take photos before the changes sadly. But I have two cheaper ones, one a pistol grip which I get on with better than the traditional pen type, and now I have the badger also side feed cup not so sure about, and the Aerograph should be finished as soon as the seals arrive in a couple of days. Great Forum and many thanks to all for your help. Both brushed were not cleaner properly in their previous lives so had to resort to soaking bits in chemicals to break down old ink, paint and water corrosion...lol.
 
Yes part of it, I like restoring lots of things being a retired engineer. I did not take photos before the changes sadly. But I have two cheaper ones, one a pistol grip which I get on with better than the traditional pen type, and now I have the badger also side feed cup not so sure about, and the Aerograph should be finished as soon as the seals arrive in a couple of days. Great Forum and many thanks to all for your help. Both brushed were not cleaner properly in their previous lives so had to resort to soaking bits in chemicals to break down old ink, paint and water corrosion...lol.

We do our best here to help others and try to save some from wasting money unnecessarily, it's good to save others the grief we had ourselves in the beginning.

I know the feeling when you spend time on something and it finally works as it should, like yourself I have a lot time to waste so I try to keep busy, I built a lap steel slide guitar form scratch a while back and was totally proud when I plugged it in and it actually not only worked but the sound was amazing, the brushes you are working on were probably better in their own time than their newer counterparts and some even paved the way for the better brushes we have now so a very worth while activity:thumbsup: and what your doing will give the experience to be able to advise others here in the future who may have problems with similar equipment:thumbsdown:
 
Yes thanks, they are indeed good as I have now used them. Also these guys http://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com/ are brilliant for Badger spares in the UK, great service and large stocks. Thanks to all and have almost finished the Aerograph, just waiting on nozzle washers ordered yesterday.

Could have sent you a couple for free, i have a bag of 20 only standard though not ptfe for the fine setup.

Lee
 
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