Badger 100iL my way

DaveG

Airbush Analyst
One of my very first airbrushes purchased in the early 80's was a Badger 100iL, or 100SF. I quickly moved on to other brushes, but that one has always held a sentimental place. I purchased a new 100SF when I wanted to take a stab at converting it to a side feed Sotar, but really did not care for the feel of that conversion. The 100's are not the same as they were back in the day - small model revisions make it feel quite foreign to me, compared to what I remember it to be, with it's slim, tapered handle, and small size. Now, they come with a big, heavy, straight handle -
100-Il-stock1.jpg

So, I set out to make the brush into something that I would not only keep, but actually use ;).
100-Il-stock-mod1.jpg

I have never liked that these brushes could not be used without a needle cap on them, because it is incorporated into the nozzle cap as a one piece unit. So, my first mod was to machine the regulator cap to expose the needle, so I could use it similar to say, an Iwata, with the needle cap off. I did make a small change to the regulator cap, based on something I have seen on an adjustable regulator Thayer & Chandler, but that change is not for the faint of heart (or unskilled machinist)... so I will keep it as noted as a generic "change". I also cut a new blanking plug to fill the off side color cup hole, and plated both parts to match the rest of the brush. I should mention here that to me, "iL" has always put me in the mindset of "illustrator", so in that spirit the "medium" head set was ditched in favor of the "fine" with matching needle.
100iL-blanking-plug1.jpg

Next step was to come up with a new regulator cap that will allow a "paint picker" crown cap to be slid on, say similar to a Harder and Steendeck Infinity - so, back into the machine shop, and -
paint-picker2-1a.jpg paint-picker2-2.jpg

The crown cap slip fits, and can be positioned at any angle the heart desires, to expose a view of the needle tip while working. I'll get this buffed out and plated in the next few days. Other alterations to the brush are the installation of an older, smaller trigger button (much nicer machine work than current stock), the side feed holes were reamed to accept the larger stems of Iwata, and Aztek color cups, softer trigger spring custom wound and installed, new needle spring, and the rear handle is one that Badger offers as an extra. I have smaller O-rings on order to reduce their profile, yet still fill the gaps machined in the handle - just less obtrusively.

This brush, I like. It works quite well the way I have it fitted, is very small, and light, and handles very nicely.



I wanted to do a 100G ("B" cup) brush, but found out they changed the shape and position of the color cup on new production, so I set my sights on finding a used one I can rebuild.
 
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One of my very first airbrushes purchased in the early 80's was a Badger 100iL, or 100SF. I quickly moved on to other brushes, but that one has always held a sentimental place. I purchased a new 100SF when I wanted to take a stab at converting it to a side feed Sotar, but really did not care for the feel of that conversion. The 100's are not the same as they were back in the day - small model revisions make it feel quite foreign to me, compared to what I remember it to be, with it's slim, tapered handle, and small size. Now, they come with a big, heavy, straight handle -
View attachment 52749

So, I set out to make the brush into something that I would not only keep, but actually use ;).
View attachment 52750

I have never liked that these brushes could not be used without a needle cap on them, because it is incorporated into the nozzle cap as a one piece unit. So, my first mod was to machine the regulator cap to expose the needle, so I could use it similar to say, an Iwata, with the needle cap off. I did make a small change to the regulator cap, based on something I have seen on an adjustable regulator Thayer & Chandler, but that change is not for the faint of heart (or unskilled machinist)... so I will keep it as noted as a generic "change". I also cut a new blanking plug to fill the off side color cup hole, and plated both parts to match the rest of the brush. I should mention here that to me, "iL" has always put me in the mindset of "illustrator", so in that spirit the "medium" head set was ditched in favor of the "fine" with matching needle.
View attachment 52751

Next step was to come up with a new regulator cap that will allow a "paint picker" crown cap to be slid on, say similar to a Harder and Steendeck Infinity - so, back into the machine shop, and -
View attachment 52752 View attachment 52753

The crown cap slip fits, and can be positioned at any angle the heart desires, to expose a view of the needle tip while working. I'll get this buffed out and plated in the next few days. Other alterations to the brush are the installation of an older, smaller trigger button (much nicer machine work than current stock), the side feed holes were reamed to accept the larger stems of Iwata, and Aztek color cups, softer trigger spring custom wound and installed, new needle spring, and the rear handle is one that Badger offers as an extra. I have smaller O-rings on order to reduce their profile, yet still fill the gaps machined in the handle - just less obtrusively.

This brush, I like. It works quite well the way I have it fitted, is very small, and light, and handles very nicely.



I wanted to do a 100G ("B" cup) brush, but found out they changed the shape and position of the color cup on new production, so I set my sights on finding a used one I can rebuild.

Hi DaveG

I want to know if a Badger 100 SG can be modified to give performance comparable to the SOTAR 2020 slim .
If so what would need to be done to accomplish this ?
Thank You
John V
 
Hi DaveG

I want to know if a Badger 100 SG can be modified to give performance comparable to the SOTAR 2020 slim .
If so what would need to be done to accomplish this ?
Thank You
John V
you can screw a complete Sotar head on the 100sg, and be on your way. If you are looking to compete with the Slim, buy a needle too, and cut the back down to fit inside the handle.
 
you can screw a complete Sotar head on the 100sg, and be on your way. If you are looking to compete with the Slim, buy a needle too, and cut the back down to fit inside the handle.

Thank You for your reply DaveG.
What other Badger air brushes can this be done to ?
Is there a better choice of airbrush than the 100 series ?
Thank You
John V
 
I'm not really a huge fan of the 100's. They were good in their time, but are dated - the 100SG conversion with Sotar head works well, but are really short from trigger forward. The Renegade series is the opposite - they are basically next gen Sotar's, but wound up all being long, and on the heavy side. If you want a Sotar, get a Sotar - they are proportioned right for what they are. I prefer the original Sotar body, which had a different angle and wall thickness on the color cup... I also like the new Slim build, but still wish it had the original color cup with a small lip up front.

Badger brushes are like an erector set - they evolve by using common components with small changes, so the parts become interchangeable throughout many models - but, in the end they all really work about the same.
 
I'm not really a huge fan of the 100's. They were good in their time, but are dated - the 100SG conversion with Sotar head works well, but are really short from trigger forward. The Renegade series is the opposite - they are basically next gen Sotar's, but wound up all being long, and on the heavy side. If you want a Sotar, get a Sotar - they are proportioned right for what they are. I prefer the original Sotar body, which had a different angle and wall thickness on the color cup... I also like the new Slim build, but still wish it had the original color cup with a small lip up front.

Badger brushes are like an erector set - they evolve by using common components with small changes, so the parts become interchangeable throughout many models - but, in the end they all really work about the same.

DaveG Will you expand on your comment " I'm not really a huge fan of the 100's. They were good in their time, but are dated "
As a beginner in the Air Brush world I have no idea of the Badger model number timeline. Oldest to most resent model.
Is there a chronological listing available ? The Badger Web site is sorely lacking in that area, as well as others.

John V
 
Funny thing to say, but I've done to my Badger similar thing not a while ago. I haven't been to the forum for over half a year and you posted this thread. I haven't seen it, as reading new post for half a year it crazy. Now when new post appeared yesterday, thread got on "new unread posts", I read this and got a smile on my face:)
The shape is not like yours, but idea for better tip dry removal and more convenient work.
I heard in some old video about ABing years ago that guys were sanding down Badger's air/needle cap combined part to get the AB to normal work with it.
 
Funny thing to say, but I've done to my Badger similar thing not a while ago. I haven't been to the forum for over half a year and you posted this thread. I haven't seen it, as reading new post for half a year it crazy. Now when new post appeared yesterday, thread got on "new unread posts", I read this and got a smile on my face:)
The shape is not like yours, but idea for better tip dry removal and more convenient work.
I heard in some old video about ABing years ago that guys were sanding down Badger's air/needle cap combined part to get the AB to normal work with it.

Vladimir
Thank You for your information. I am a beginner with the airbrush, So all of this is quite new to me.

John V
 
Vladimir
Thank You for your information. I am a beginner with the airbrush, So all of this is quite new to me.

John V

John, if you looking for good airbrush to start with, consider smth else. I should think that you have no experience with airbrush improvement, it's better for you not to do smth to the tool. It's very easy to spoil the parts.
 
John, if you looking for good airbrush to start with, consider smth else. I should think that you have no experience with airbrush improvement, it's better for you not to do smth to the tool. It's very easy to spoil the parts.

Thank You
John V
 
DaveG Will you expand on your comment " I'm not really a huge fan of the 100's. They were good in their time, but are dated "
As a beginner in the Air Brush world I have no idea of the Badger model number timeline. Oldest to most resent model.
Is there a chronological listing available ? The Badger Web site is sorely lacking in that area, as well as others.

John V
I get you are new, but I am not going to cover the complete history of Badger in this thread. My comment kind of gives you an idea that the 100 is older, the Sotar newer - which covers the info needed in regard to the two...

On the Badger page, if you take the first 5 on the list, and slip them in between the 400, and the Renegade series someplace, this is basically the Chronological older of their Brush development. Not 100% in order but close enough... http://badgerairbrush.com/Airbrushes.asp
 
I get you are new, but I am not going to cover the complete history of Badger in this thread. My comment kind of gives you an idea that the 100 is older, the Sotar newer - which covers the info needed in regard to the two...

On the Badger page, if you take the first 5 on the list, and slip them in between the 400, and the Renegade series someplace, this is basically the Chronological older of their Brush development. Not 100% in order but close enough... http://badgerairbrush.com/Airbrushes.asp

DaveG
Thank You for the information . It will place me in the ball park.

John V
 
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