Begginer- I have air but little to no paint and Odd Spray pattern

As well as being a paint designed for blasting into fabric at high pressure, black is also one of the heaviest pigmentented paints. I'm fairly sure that as you have been painting at lower pressure, and not enough reduction for the pigment, your nozzle will be blocked.

You will have cleaned it I'm sure, but that doesn't always mean it's clean. Cleaning nozzles is practically an art in itself:rolleyes:lolAnd can be very frustrating at first.

Apart from not spraying correctly, you may be able to tell by checking to see if you have bubbles in your paint cup. Also, clean the brush, undo the needle chuck and gently move the needle back and forth by hand. If it feels spongey or gritty then there's def old paint in there. Soak the nozzle, if a little paint comes out, then there's probably a bit more, to be sure, soak again.

As mentioned a compressor with tank is a must, and better paint for sure. Over reducing will help avoid future clogging, a quick spray of a few drops of neat reducer between colour changes, and at the end of a session after cleaning, will help keep it all in top form.
 
Awesome. I just woke up and am reading all this... I should've grabbed my coffee first... lol

2. JacobEb- Thanks! I will give all of those a try. Also that spurt is confusing. If I press air 'on" and "pull" trigger paint comes out, as I pull trigger back more, less and less paint comes out until no paint comes out at all. As I return the trigger forward, the paint spurts and then starts flowing. Any thoughts as to why the paint shuts off the more I pull the trigger back? Air is flowing the entire time. And -Yes that is my compressor, nice detective work there!
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I was actually going edit my first post and put a warning up after all the replies started flying in, that you should grab a coffee
from the stats I read on the compressor you have, it cuts in when the tank pressure drops to 43psi I could hear the compressor cut in almost as soon as you hit the trigger so you are spraying at 43 at the most, not sufficient for the Createx airbrush colour range. As others have stated, its a thick paint that likes to be sprayed at 50+ There are other paints available that are better to start out with. Etac / Golden High Flow to name a few water based products.

All I can think of with your dilemma above is that the paint is so thick and the psi so low that as you pull the needle back the paint is 'falling' into the channel but there isn't enough air to push it out, and as you bring the trigger forward you are forcing paint out the end of the nozzle.
@DaveG or @Kim McCann may be able to enlighten more on that.
The symptoms are similar to when I get a blocked nozzle.
Definitely upgrade your compressor, you can work with a generic brush (bit hit and miss with the quality sometimes) but if your compressor isn't up to the job then even a $$$$ brush won't work well. You've had several suggestions for a replacement, all of which I'm sure will do the job with ease.

IF you don't have food colouring in the house then anything that can slightly colour the water will do... maybe you have kids and they have some of those solid paints they use with a wet brush... you only need enough colour to see it when it hits the paper. Maybe next time you are grocery shopping you can grab a small bottle of food colouring, it does come in handy for trouble shooting :)

Don't listen to them bag my Tamiya stir sticks.... they are great ! I have a converted milk frother and a badger paint mixer, both or which work well until the batteries go flat, or the disc falls off my badger - yes it happened, I had to grab my heavy duty magnets and drag it up the inside of the bottle !
my faithful stir sticks don't go flat, don't fall apart and are easy to clean :p for the taller bottles I have a stainless steel chopstick - true :)

The best thing about this place is the 'real life' experiences people have with airbrushes and all related bits and pieces. we aren't sponsored by a particular brand, we get nothing for our recommendations. we recommend products that we use and like. we will also make people aware of the downside of other products that weren't worth the money.
 
Bring on the stir stick jokes!! Love'em. And..... I do have a milk frother! It may "disappear" from the kitchen. I don't have any kids to blame unfortunately so my girlfriend will probably figure it out pretty fast. She does like her coffee black and I am using black paints.... hmmm.

OK. Again thanks everyone.

I did a few things today.

1. I bought an Iwata Eclipse.
2. I threw away my Master Brush. I think I already stripped the threading in the nozzle tip. The .5mm tip pretty much just fell out when I took the nozzle off and only 1/2 the threads where still there. POS.
3. I upped my air pressure a bit more and reduced my paint..... and... ta dah! Things are working!

I'm uploading my page of lines. They're crap I know but at least paint was coming out. I do get some 'dots' when I'm painting.

Thanks for the compressor links. Mine will not blow harder than 40psi. So I will definitely look at the suggestions above.

Question:
I think I'm getting water in my lines. I have a water filter at the pump and the Eclipse came with a tiny filter that fits onto the gun. Which I attached. It filled up with water pretty quickly and I kept having to blow it out. I'm in L.A. Humidity is 50% outside... not sure about in my house. I was holding down the air button A LOT. I could feel little burst of water/air/burp coming out the line- even with the filters on. Any thoughts?
 

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Hmmm....

Honestly that is looking like something is blocking the paint channel and only at a very specific point does it open enough for spray, but go too far and it blocks again.

Now that could be paint, but even thick createx should spray well at 40 psi through a 0.5 nozzle. In fact, even their pearl and metallic paints with flecks in them should transport well. So something is up.

So the first thing to try is to see if it is the paint clogging the brush somehow.

Mix that createx black with plain water (not 4020 down to the point it is about the consistency of half fat milk), and try to spray it. For standard createx, water works well as a reducer if you are ok with the paint staying wet for a while. Not ideal for working quickly, but a lot cheaper to test with, without blowing through all your paint and costing $$.

Does plain old tap water move through the brush any better or the same?

The other thing that is common, especially on some of the less expensive model brushes, is joins leaking air, stealing all your pressure. Likely places are where the fluid head attaches to the body, nozzle cap or it coming up out of the trigger area. Make a thin liquid dish soap solution and with your brush running. pour it over the brush and look for bubbles at any of the joints. If there are a lot of them, you might be losing too much pressure to carry the paint. A common technique is to take things apart where the leak is, melt some beeswax or use some chapstick on the join and reassemble. Beeswax lasts longer, but you'll likely have to use a lighter or other heat source to melt it into the grooves or threads of your join.

I would also carefully check the nozzle. Often irregular spraying characteristics can be caused by a nozzle that is slightly cracked or flared, through accidentally dragging an exposed needle on something, too much force being used to reassemble when cleaning, or pressure from pliers when trying to take it off to remove clogs. Often in those cases there will only be one "sweet spot" where enough paint flows and there is enough suction from your working pressure to move paint.

What I see in the video almost certainly says "mechanical problem" like a bad air leak or damaged nozzle. But it is possible it is something about your paint mix. Try with plain water, or very, very reduced black.

A 0.5 Eclipse can move undiluted createx black at 30psi or lower - so at over 40 you should not be having this kind of issue moving paint through a 0.5 nozzle setup.

You might also consider after making a thinned down paint, filtering it. I use dollar store pantyhose, or ultrafine mesh cheesecloth, and then cut them up into little paint filters. It just removes any old chunks or polymerized paint that can clog anything.

Still, the fact that you lose paint again past a certain point of pulling the needle back suggests a mechanical problem. Some kind of intermittent blocking of the paint channel, so maybe nozzle related.
 
Glad you got it sorted. Yeah, sounds like it was a bad nozzle. The number one bane of new airbrushers is how very, very easy it is to damage a nozzle while cleaning. I almost never take mine out unless there is absolutely no other choice and there is a man with a gun to my head demanding that I do. I flush carefully with home made cleaner (25% alcohol, 25% windex, 50% water and a spoonful of glycerin or dish soap). For stubborn stuff I have a small ultrasonic I dump clogged brushes into. I loathe taking nozzles out as 95% of airbrush killing is due to damage to nozzles while cleaning.

Water in the line.... This is unavoidable. When air compresses it heats up and likes to eat up more moisture, when it decompresses, it leaves it behind. So water will inevitably build up in your lines. Thankfully there is a good solution to that. Moisture traps.

something like:
https://www.amazon.ca/ABEST-Airbrus...rds=Iwata+moisture+trap&qid=1603148107&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.ca/Jewboer-Separ...33&sprefix=compressor+moisture,aps,198&sr=8-9

They basically screw into your line and let the water drop out before the air hits your gun. (I'm in Canada, so search for those in your own countries' amazon or ebay or something).

Iwata makes one that is exactly the same as ABEST, but near as I can tell it is exactly the same, only twice the price. Those that know me know I love Iwata and are one of their biggest gushing fan boys, but their non-airbrush accessories are usually a bit on the pricey side.

So for $10 US you can make your water issues go away.

When I first started as a broke ass high school student in the 80s, I made a moisture trap out of a coke bottle, extra air hoses that came with my kit and great big globs of glue. It was pretty janky, but it worked. All you need is somewhere down the line between your compressor and your airbrush a larger space where the water has a chance to settle out of the air.

More concerning is that cheaper compressors often don't consider this in their design. They just assume that you're using tools that don't care if a bit of moisture comes through (like a nail gun or rotary sander), and they usually have a drain valve somewhere on the tank that people miss. If you are going to keep using the same compressor and it is prone to moving water, look for a water release valve somewhere on or close to the tank, otherwise in a month or two you'll be buying a new compressor as this one rusts out.
 
So glad you upgraded your brush, at least now you can get paint on paper.
Don't bin the generic just yet, use it as your practice beast for stripping an airbrush down totally and putting it back together, it will teach you how it all works without the risk of dropping your good one lol
 
I did not comment on this earlier, because I saw a lot of good advice being given. I watched the video clip you originally posted, and my guess would be that the bulk of your issue was the brush itself. I don't have anything against Master, or any of the other generic brushes, other than understanding that they can be hit or miss. I noticed in the pattern you did get to spray that it appeared to be wider than tall, rather than being round. This is usually an indicator that the nozzle is off center in the nozzle cap. Very common issue with those... Also, just guessing from the spray behavior, I do not think there was a proper nozzle protrusion from the nozzle cap - leading to poor suction. The air stream would strip paint from the needle tip, but not pull paint forward through the paint channel. When you returned the needle forward, it would blow the paint of the needle. If the paint was too thick it would have appeared more grainy... These issues may have been rectifiable, but could have also been more of a pain that it was worth - so upgrading to an Eclipse will certainly make things easier. The brush is a known element now, rather than a hit or miss - and we will for sure be able to help with any results you do achieve with it.

The compressor could certainly be upgraded. But, I can tell you - I worked with one similar to that when I started, and managed to produce hundreds of pieces over several years before upgrading to something more appropriate... you just have to learn its nuances. Water will be one - I learned about how long I could run mine before it would accumulate water in the hose. I would disconnect the brush, and let the hose lay on the floor, with compressor on my desk, and run it to blow the water out. Maybe, every 15 minutes sometimes. If you want to get into more serious work, do yourself a favor and upgrade sooner then later ;).
 
You have already received more knowledge from the others than a human brain can possibly absorb, especially before coffee. I will just add one thought. I also started out with the regular Createx Airbrush Colors line. I spent a week or two figuring out how to get it to flow the way I wanted. I was finally happy with the results I was getting. Then I started using the Wicked line. Much easier to paint with, and the finished product is much smoother due to the finer pigment. I recommend it.

That said, you need to understand that once you think you have things figured out and the brush is performing the way you want and then switch up the paint you are using, you have to start all over. Reduction ratios, PSI, etc. are all going to change. You figure it out and life goes on, but it's a little bit of a curve ball in the process. The nice thing is, once you get to that point you have a better understanding of the why and how, which makes future adjustment more predictable.

Congrats on the upgrade, BTW. The Master airbrushes aren't very good, in my opinion, but they are a launch pad to get you going. I kept mine just in case the SHTF and I need a backup. Otherwise, I'll probably never use it again.
 
lol @Karl Becker, you think you only have to adjust reduction / psi etc if you switch up the paint brand/series ? ! If only that were true ! I can assure you that my ratios change with the seasons / days of the week / phase of the moon ! Thats why there is always a piece of paper for test spraying on the board. Even though I use Createx Illustration almost exclusively there will be adjustments to ratios depending on what colour I am spraying and what ratio I use today may be 'off' tomorrow...
always test spray, make the minor adjustments as necessary. After awhile you'll find a base line that suits you and adjust from there.
 
I was trying not to overload the man (woman, I don't know). Geez. :p

I haven't reached the point yet where those conditions matter so much to what I'm doing, but you are obviously correct. So, I guess, strap in Drew. It's gonna be a bumpy ride! Please make sure your tray table has been securely fastened and you observe the No Smoking light. :)
 
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I was trying not to overload the man. Geez. :p

I haven't reached the point yet where those conditions matter so much to what I'm doing, but you are obviously correct. So, I guess, strap in Drew. It's gonna be a bumpy ride! Please make sure your tray table has been securely fastened and you observe the No Smoking light. :)

.... and the emergency exits are .. .. .. WHO FORGOT TO MARK THE EMERGENCY EXITS .. .. ..
oh that's right, you can check in but you can never leave :confused:

yes its a learning curve, but a fun one for the most part, its so satisfying seeing a finished piece knowing it started out as a blank canvas - literally.

If you haven't figured it out yet Drew, we are all about imparting info with a giggle or three -
 
Don't throw away the master airbrush, it can be repaired and used for less important stuff. If the nozzle is broken off you should be able to remove the broken bit using an exacto blade. Using it like a screwdriver in the broken nozzle and unscrewing it. I'm not 100% sure but you may be able to fit a better quality nozzle and needle which will hopefully improve its performance. Not sure if DaveG has done what I've just mentioned I know he has some master AB's, however failing the upgrade option just buy replacement parts and fit them. Always good as a spare. I still have a cheap airbrush in my airbrush box. Not sure if I will ever use it but its there.

Lee
 
Ok. I've said it like 15 times already but thanks again to everyone on this feed. I'd take you all out for a beer if I could.

I think I'm finally up and running. The only thing holding me back now is myself. There is now a 'before and after' feed, me.

Before Feed Me:
Master Brush
Wrong Paint
Wrong Paint/Reducer Ratios
Broke Nozzle
Weak Compressor
Completely confused

Nothing painted well at all.

After Feed Me:
Iwata Eclipse
Wicket Paints
Properly Reduced
Nozzle in Excellent shape
Fortress Compressor
Still confused- but much less!

Everything paints MUCH better. Ok. Time to go paint.

Anyone have any tips on things to practice (lines, dots, circles, cubes?) tutorials? I've been google searching and found some good ones.
 
Ok. I've said it like 15 times already but thanks again to everyone on this feed. I'd take you all out for a beer if I could.

I think I'm finally up and running. The only thing holding me back now is myself. There is now a 'before and after' feed, me.

Before Feed Me:
Master Brush
Wrong Paint
Wrong Paint/Reducer Ratios
Broke Nozzle
Weak Compressor
Completely confused

Nothing painted well at all.

After Feed Me:
Iwata Eclipse
Wicket Paints
Properly Reduced
Nozzle in Excellent shape
Fortress Compressor
Still confused- but much less!

Everything paints MUCH better. Ok. Time to go paint.

Anyone have any tips on things to practice (lines, dots, circles, cubes?) tutorials? I've been google searching and found some good ones.
This sounds silly, but it really helps.

If you are sick of practicing dagger strokes and dots and need a change, pick up a kids coloring book and practice coloring on it. Get one on good paper if you can.

even bad paper will do. It will teach you to lay down very light coats, and help you master strokes and shapes and learning to paint shapes without the tedium of just endless exercises.

When I first started out I got a spider man coloring book, and a Thor one from a local kids mart, and it really helped me develop faster than any number of exercises and was more fun.

Also, don't be afraid of asking for techniques or help if you find something tricky or hard to do. We all faced the same learning curve and came up with tricks to do things, and everyone here is happy to share ways of making hard things easier.

Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk
 
big thumbs up to the colouring in book idea (or even google some colouring in pages for kids)
it helps with controlling the paint to stay in the lines , shading , blending etc... trying to make a 2d object look 3d.
it doesn't all have to be about dots and lines :) but even when you do get the control happening, the dots and lines are great for warming up and testing the paint flow :)
 
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