Bill Murray Golf Club Tutorial


Russ Allen

[h=2]Bill Murray Golf Club Tutorial[/h]
Hey everyone, here's a tutorial several have been asking for on a golf club. Sorry its taken so long, been way behind with everything and new jobs keep rollin in, just gotta learn to say no sometimes, lol.


-Badger Krome, Badger TABF Custom Velocity
-Operating pressure 32psi
ETAC Paints
- Jet Black (can't remember #)
- Paynes Gray (PSTR-125)
- Pyrrole Red (PSTR-107)
- Titanium Plasma White (PSOP-201)
- Phthalocyanine Blue (PSTR-110)
- AG 20/50 Modifier (Opti-Film 2050)
- Water for reduction
- Valspar Satin White rattlecan paint for basecoat
Miscellaneous Items:
- Greenstar Vinyl Transfer Paper (US Cutter, for masking)
- Xacto Knife
- Tweezers
- Cutting board (or vinyl plotter if available)
- Blue shop towels
- Wax/Degreaser
- Red or Green Scotchbrite Pads
- 400 to 600 sandpaper wet/dry (only needed if club has graphics on it)
- Windex (amonia free)
- 3M green 1/4" tape and 3M blue 1" painters tape
- Tack cloth
- Damn good music, haha

Step 1: Selecting your artwork/tracing

I first start by getting a good reference, or if you want, just sketch up your own design on a piece of paper. In my case, I had just done this same picture (only half the size) on a smaller club last week. So I had already had my image in Inkscape and vectorized. I had spoke with a few here on the forum about using the laptop as a lightbox to trace images, here's a pic of what Im talking about and since my plotter software is down, I will be cutting this one by hand so I used the lil' tracing technique we had spoke about before:
Step 1 trace.jpg If you will turn all the lights off in the room, and using Inkscape I made my stencils from the Bill Murray photo, then just taped a regular sheet of copy/printer paper to the screen and trace it with a pencil. You can use this technique with larger images as well. Using Inkscape, blow your pic up as big as you want, and depending on how big you go, that will determine how many sheets of paper it will take to get the image traced. Here's the image once I've traced it:
Step 1a traced.jpg

Make sure you make registration marks when you are doing multi layered stencils, so you know your stencils are lining up properly when you lay the masking down.

This tracing method works very well and most of us already have a computer and its much cheaper than buying a lightbox (even though lightboxes are very easy to make).

Step 2: Cutting the stencils

Now that you have your sketch done/traced, its time to cut them out. Remember what you are doing with each stencil as its easy to end up cutting out the wrong parts or ruining a part you thought was trash only to find out you needed that part for the stencil.

Step 3 cutting stencil.jpgStep 3a stencil cut.jpgStep 4b registration marks.jpgAbove you can see the transfer paper I have stuck to the cutting mat, under the copy/printer paper. Tape the copy/printer paper over it and start cutting the stencils out with the xacto knife (if you have a plotter, you can obviously skip this step, lol). I also put a closeup shot of the registration marks I use to line everything up with!

Step 3: Weeding the stencil

This has to be done whether you have a plotter or not. Weeding simply means separating the positive from the negative on the stencil as seen below:
Step 4 weeding the cut stencil.jpg
I always try to salvage both because you never know what will happen from this point til' you finish. Perfect example, my first Bill Murray 2wood I did, my Golden Retreiver licked and slobbered on my painting before it had time to dry and she took some paint with her, lol. Perfect example why I save both the negative and positive of the stencil.
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Step 4: Prepping the club

Now that you've decided on your artwork and have your stencils read, its time to prep the club. I always clean the club really good with Wax/Degreaser to remove any grease, dirt, fingerprints etc... before I even start prepping it. If you dont, then you're just making more work for yourself .

Next I tape off the club using 3M 1/4" green tape (vinyl tape works excellent for this application just costs more), go around the existing paint lines taping up to the edge with the 1/4" tape. Now that you've got all your edging taped off, you can either use your masking to cover the rest of the chrome parts or use more tape. In this case since its so small, I just used more tape. Be sure to tape off the hosel (where the shaft is connected to the club head. I generally use the 1/4" tape for a good straight edge, then take about half a sheet of copy/printer paper, put a 4" piece of 1" tape on the short side of the paper, half on the paper half off so you can wrap this around the shaft and stick the tape to the 1/4" tape you already wrapped around the hosel. My apologies for not getting pics of this.

Now that its all taped off, go near a sink or get a bowl of water and a red or green scotchbrite pad and scuff the club. You dont want to press real hard on the surface, just wet the pad and lightly scuff the club. The goal here is to take all the shine off the club but leave the basecoat in tacked to save you some time and material (assuming the basecoat is in good shape). If the existing paint job has decals or graphics, these will need to be removed. I generally use 400 grit or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove these as theyre a bit harder to get off than just scuffing the clearcoat off.
Step 2 prep club.jpg
Here you can see the tape job (somewhat), the red or green scotchbrite pads and the 400grit sandpaper I used. Once you get the club scuffed, you need to clean it again with the wax/degreaser to remove any residue. Then tack it off with a tack rag to remove anything you missed.

Step 5: Basecoat

Now you're ready for your basecoat. On this particular design I chose to go with a white base. You could do a Black base for this design if you wanted to, the end results would be a higher edge from your stencilling though when you got done because you would have to spray your masked off areas with white before you could begin.
I just used Valspar rattlecan Satin White for the basecoat. It leaves some grit to grab the waterbased paints I use for airbrushing.

Step 6: Applying the first layer stencil

Step 4a applying stencil 1.jpgStep 5 painting stencil 1 blue gray.jpg
This step is pretty self explanatory. I first line up the stencil at the top using my 2 square registration marks. I put them along the straight face of the club and center the stencil from left to right until I like it. Then I lighty press on the middle of the stencil, in the nose area so it will stick. This is where it gets tricky with the stencil since the club face is rounded. I start in the center and in a circular motion start laying down the stencil working your way out to the outer edges. Just take your time and you may have to slit a few edges of the transfer paper and realign them by overlapping them in certain areas. After you do a couple it gets much easier. Once you have it in place, lay painters tape around any existing club showing and youre now ready to lay your first color. In my case, the first color is a blue/gray (paint mix: 8 drops water, 6 drops Titanium White, 1 drop Phthalocyanine Blue, 2-3 drops Paynes Gray & 2 drops AG Modifier).

NOTE: I take my finger nail and kind of scratch all the edges of the template/stencil to make sure theyre stuck down very well.​
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Step 7: Remove the Layer 1 Masking

Not much to this step, just make sure your paint has cured pretty good, curing times will be different based on your location and atmosphere and paint.
Step 5a remove stencil after painting.jpg
Here the masking has been removed from the first layer. All looks well, right??? Nope, I messed up when painting the first layer and painted the 3d glasses. I should have painted everything around them, and then paint the 3d lenses the red and blue, lol. Yup, I almost always learn the hard way, lol.

Step 8: Painting the 3d glasses

So I thought I would try my electric eraser just to see if it may be the easy solution to fix the problem and luckily it was. I was able to erase the blue/gray lenses with it. Then I reapplied the layer 1 masking to paint the lenses.
Step 6 painting the 3d glasses.jpg
Here I built some mini-shields form 1" 3M tape to keep the overspray from getting on either lense. I usually dont do this on a project this small, I would generally turn my air pressure down to around 15psi and just spary each spot, but for the sake of the tutorial I did it this way in case you dont feel comfortable enough with your airbrush to free hand it. The blue mix is 4 drops water, 4 drops Titanium White, 1 drop Phthalocyanine Blue and 1 drop AG Modifier. The red mix is 4 drops water, 2 drops Pyrrole Red and 1 drop AG Modifier. Each lense has about 4 light coats on it. I also put the HELIX electric eraser in the pic that saved the day for my mistake, lol. You can get these at just about any hobby store, I ordered this one from Coast Airbrush a couple years agao I think.

Step 6a peeling the 3d glass masking.jpg Then just peel the masking and let the paint cure​
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Step 9: Starting the 2nd layer

Now that the first layer is done and cured, we are ready to start the 2nd layer. These stencils I cut out are a bit contancerous(sp), but if you will line the square registration marks at the top up with the two pencil marks from the first stencils registration marks, it will give you a great starting point. This is really where a transparent mask/stencil comes in very hand as you can see the painting below so it makes it easier to line up. Look at your reference pic and line it up as best as you can.

Step 8 2nd layer stencil.jpg Step 9 removing 2nd stencil.jpgStep 10 2nd layer done.jpgOnce the stencil/masking is applied, I mix my paint for the dark gray. Using the same mix from earlier (you should still have enough left in your cup), add 2 drops of Titanium white, 2 drops Paynes Gray, 1 drop Jet Black, 4 drops water and 2 drops AG Modifier. Spray your second layer, should be a a dark gray, but not so dark you cant differentiate it from black which will be your last layer. Peel the masking and let it cure. Then you're ready for your third and last layer.
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Step 10: Applying the last layer

After the 2nd layer paint has cured, you're ready for your last layer. This layer is pretty important to get lined up well, and can be a bit tricky with the curve of the club. Really look at your reference when applying it. You really cant use your registration marks on this stencil so I first line up the two cutouts for the eyebrows and the black rectangle on the left next to the glasses, on his temple. Then just slowly place the stencil down (I used tweezers to tweak the stencil where I needed it and my Xacto knife, just be careful as its easy to scratch the layer beneath with the knife).

Step 12 last layer applied.jpgStep 13 2nd coat on last layer.jpgStep 14 last layer 5 coats.jpg
You'll notice on my stencil a lot of the gray is not covered. Thats what you want so you dont have a lot of trouble matching your lines perfectly and having the chance of leaving white lines everywhere because you didnt get your stencil lined up perfect. I still had a couple spots where I missed getting the overlap, but it still turned out okay.

Step 15 finished needs cleared.jpg

Make sure the black coat is cured before you start removing the stencil/masking. Also be sure to peel the masking up very slowly where its adhered over prepainted areas. Sometimes if you peel it too fast and you have a spot or two that didnt cure really well, it will peel your previous layers up.

So now all I have to do is clear the club. I will do that in two days as I have to finish a couple more projects tonight so I can clear them all at once so I dont waste a lot of clearcoat. Im using Nason clearcoat on this particular club (as well as all the other projects I got going). I do highly recommend to use SprayMax 2k clearcoat as its some great stuff and I read a thread the other day stating that House of Color has aerosal cans now with their clearcoats and paints. They run around $27-$29 a can but I would bet theyre well worth the money.

I will post a pic of it cleared in a couple of days.

As always, if you have any questions, feel free to message me or post here in the tutorial, I'd be glad to help ya any way I can.

Hope this helps someone out.

If theres any professionals that see anything that might make this easier, Im all ears as Im just a novice airbrusher and still learning myself, so Im all ears!!

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Here's a pic of both the clubs I did together. They were a lot of fun, just time consuming on the smaller one especially.

Both Bill Murray Clubs.jpg

Keep slingin paint!!​
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Thanks! Much appreciated! Hope it helps others out. I know its a lot of reading, but until I get time to do the videos, this will have to do, lol.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to message me or post them here and we will discuss them. As stated many times before, Im no professional but if theres any way I can help, I dont mind, or if theres something you see in the tutorial that may make it easier or work better, Im all ears!! Thanks for checking it out.
Awesome$! Bill Murray is the man!!! You should win an award for all the time in this extremely well thought out and perfect execution of what a tutorial is all about!!!!!!! Applause....., a big ole round of it!!

"Sometimes you have to let one slip......just to remind people your $#!+ really does stink ;)
Hell No, Russ Allen is the MAN !!! :)

Video? Sounds interesting
lol, thanks Josh!!! Appreciate it bro. I remember when I first started airbrushing and was looking for tutorials that would give me every answer, lol, not many if any did. I know the mix ratios will be different depending on location, weather, paint, equipment etc...but I try to at least give those that want to try it a place to start with the mix, then maybe it will take some of the guess work out of it, lol. I know its a lot of reading, but it takes a lot to put all the info in there, haha. So some probably wont even mess with reading it cause a lot of people just dont care to read that much, but if it helps one person, then it did exactly what I wanted to do and I cant ask for more than that!

Thank ya WorldofGlassCraft!! Much appreciated!! Ya, Im still planning on venturing into the video realm, but havent had time or the money to fly Josh to Oklahoma to show me the ropes, lol. Seriously planning on doing some videos hopefully by the end of summer if I can get some things caught up, and Josh, you have my word, I'll be givin ya a shout for pointers, as well as Mitch when you guys arent busy (oh, wait, that would be never then, lol since ya stay so busy). Glad ya like it Tony!! Hope it helps ya
what a great tutorial, id say this is as comprehensive and clear as you can get, great job on the work and the tutorial!
Awesome tutorial yet again Russ, i love the finished result on this one especially with the vectorised image.. many thanks for sharing mate i'm sure people will get alot from this - likely the most detailed tutorial on this site to date! :)
Thanks everyone, you guys are awesome. I really enjoy doing the tutorials, its the least I can do to give back to the forums that have taught me so much!!!
Haha, funny you say that Andre, lol. Theyre having some land surveyed for their new home and he's already talking about doin it in his man cave!!