Breathing Apparatus

I know when you mix with like for example the 4050 which is a UVLS clear it pretty much creates a combination of water and urethane based paint - here is the data sheet on the uvls clears - https://creatextech.com/assets/html/pages/UVLS-Clears-TDS.html

other paints clears and sealers are all on that site as well.

I decided i needed a face mask for all the Dremel work anyway ...so the combination 3m TR- xxx series units seemed the best of both worlds. I bumped up to the 800 series due to using flammable liquids ... they have a painters kit "PSK" but oddly i'm not sure that is really correct filter cartridge you want.

I'm looking at the gas and particle one - which has the TR-6530N cartridge - https://www.envirosafetyproducts.co...or-heavy-industry-kit-intrinsically-safe.html

I still need to do a bit more research on if this is sufficient against isocyanates


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Follow-up- i did find this response on another site -
Question: its this approved for volatile organic compound (VOCs), isocyanates? (automotive painting) it not wich filter is recommended?

Answer: Thanks for your question. The TR-6710N helps provide protection against particulate hazards only. The TR-6530N is the cartridge to select to create a TR-600 PAPR assembly that is approved for use against organic vapor hazards – which would include solvent vapors and isocyanates.

Oddly the 6710N is the one on the "PSK" (paint-booth version of the PAPR by default....weird! ) - Though it does sound like the TR-6530N filter may be the way to go.

Anyone know for sure?


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I feel like I'm always preaching the importance of proper spray booth design. The internet is full of people posting build logs of their own half-assed, unresearched DIY booths as "tutorials". You can't just whack any old fan in a box and assume it's good just because it runs. You have to measure the booth opening, the duct length and diameter, and figure out what specs your fan has to meet in order to actually move enough air for those measurements. And even if the CFM seems good, nobody ever thinks about the static pressure rating.

The maths are really easy, and unless your booth is really big and/or your duct is long and/or bendy, it doesn't make the job that much more expensive, but it always seems no-one wants to listen. Once people have think they've found a cheap life-hack, they will bend over backwards to justify it, no matter how sketchy or easily provably wrong it is.
 
I feel like I'm always preaching the importance of proper spray booth design. The internet is full of people posting build logs of their own half-assed, unresearched DIY booths as "tutorials". You can't just whack any old fan in a box and assume it's good just because it runs. You have to measure the booth opening, the duct length and diameter, and figure out what specs your fan has to meet in order to actually move enough air for those measurements. And even if the CFM seems good, nobody ever thinks about the static pressure rating.

The maths are really easy, and unless your booth is really big and/or your duct is long and/or bendy, it doesn't make the job that much more expensive, but it always seems no-one wants to listen. Once people have think they've found a cheap life-hack, they will bend over backwards to justify it, no matter how sketchy or easily provably wrong it is.
You’re concerned about potential health repercussion, no apology needed for ‘preaching’.
as humans we generally take the path of least resistance so if we see ‘reverse a box fan with a filter will suffice” we don’t tend to think more than ‘good idea’
I love the feedback and info you have given on various posts here, thank you
 
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