Can I Soak My Airbrush

M

martijacobs

Guest
Hi! I just brought this airbrush, Im begging with this paint technique, I've been drawing and painting since I was in high school, so a friend introduced me to the body-paint and obviously I love it.

I buy the Iwata Neo CN Airbrush & Ninja Jet Compressoris just to start, but Im not sure how to clean it.

Thanks a lot!
 
The question is looking at it the wrong way... Yes you can soak your airbrush... the more important question is what can I soak it in. Why do you want to soak it? Reality is you shouldn't need too. Trap for young players, you need to find out what type of seals the brush is fitted with. The manufacturer should be able to guide you there. Cleaning is normally flushing through with appropriate solvent. What type of paint are you using? If it's water based, water is fine, water being the appropriate solvent.
 
Check this guy out. For me, I just use a soft paint brush and not the inter dental brushes.
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I use alcohol (95%) and a soft brush to remove water based paint. It works great :) Like @markjthomson says, you shouldn't need to soak the entire airbrush. You could soak the nozzle, if it has dried paint or something. You can clean the coup with a soft brush. If you use your airbrush properly (and if it has no damage), paint shouldn't be anywhere else :))


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Most heinous substance known to man... well maybe not but it is horrible!
 
Check this guy out. For me, I just use a soft paint brush and not the inter dental brushes.
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Thanks a looot!!
 
Thanks to all!!! I have been using airbrush textile acrylics, because are low-cost, just to start. I'm gonna follow your advises guys thanks!, pardon my english writing, I'm trying my best :whistling:
 
If you have Teflon seals you're good with solvent, but I recommend using W500 the Createx Wicked paint reducer. Its an awesome water based (mild solvent) thinner, but also great for cleaning too, so a great 2 in 1. Soak the nozzle, gently clean, when it seems clean - clean again lol. Then when you put the brush together spray some through too. If the needle feels a little sticky or spongy when you put it in, or your spray pattern is misshapen, it is probably not quite clean, so repeat the process.
 
If you remove the needle for cleaning, IMO it's better to remove it from the front than the back. Removing the needle from the back can risk it dragging/dripping some paint or solvents back into the trigger compartment, risking air valve contamination, and forcing you to do cleaning patrol on the trigger mechanisms as well as the paint areas up front.

If you remove the needle from the front, the brush guts aft of the packing always stay safe and clean.

Aside from that, my only input is that I prefer Badger lube over K33 (K33 stays put better, Badger lubes better), and to add my voice to those saying that Iwata Superlube isn't worth bothering with (doesn't lube as well as others, tends to dry out and cause sticky action), and that 3-in-1 oil sounds like a baaaaaaaaad idea (search the forums for "fish eyes" to see why).
 
So to retierate, dont just dunk the entire airbrush and all of its parts into a small plastic container filled with alchohol/water or simple green. You need to remove any rubber rings, and after letting it soak for a few hours you take everything out and lube all the threads. Anything else i'm missing?
 
So to retierate, dont just dunk the entire airbrush and all of its parts into a small plastic container filled with alchohol/water or simple green. You need to remove any rubber rings, and after letting it soak for a few hours you take everything out and lube all the threads. Anything else i'm missing?

No probs to soaking an airbrush in water, I use a little dishwashing liquid cause I'm cheap :)..If I plan to soak in thinners I simply remove my air valve assembly but it doesnt need a long soak though sometimes have left it in the water for hours and no probs...Wouldnt do that in thinners though LOL..But as a few mentioned, simply comes down to what seals are in the needle packing area or occasionly on cheap brushes some have a rubber seal on the head assembly, most these days are teflon and teflon handle solvents fine but always pays to check with the manufacturer as someone posted..I always soak my gun for a few minutes in quite hot water unless of course using uro's, find this loosens up some of the most stubborn paint..Many of us also ream the tip on occasion but wont over explain that, dont want anyone ruining their brush but it is generally needed in some "repair"..I've had a few past students pop their brush in not working well, stated they cleaned it 100%, soak their tip/nozzle in hotwater, gently ream the nozzle and all the extra crud that comes out is amazing..Send them home with a better running brush :) No doubt the videos posted will help explain it better.
 
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