Can someone explain...


Needle-chuck Ninja
I am looking at createx illustrations colors, and also the createx colors...

I guess what i'm asking is, i don't know how else to word it other than, what is the right usage for the different kinds of paints? transparent colors, ( i am assuming you use to build up tones) , opaque, ( used over transparent colors?), are the iridescent colors used like the name suggest, seemingly changing colors from different angles? Pearlescent, for glossy like finishes?

So, for a run down, cause i seem to be all over the place, what is the transparent or opaque base used for? I think i am figuring it out myself as i write this, but i can't be sure.
Opaques are jus that, one color no matter how much you put down, they will only go so dark. A transparent can be very light, or with enough costs, very dark.

Go with the illustration colors. The white is actually opaque. And is designed to be mixed into the other colors creating a "buffered" color, meaning you get a tone and it will max out at the color you want. Not that you can't use the trans colors by themselves. It's based on the Dru Blair buffered system, look him up, should come up with a link to his school and a brief over view of the buffered thing.

The standard Createx is thick and more suited to textiles. Yes you can use it in other surfaces, but for outdoor or direct light exposure it will fade faster than the CI, AA, or Wicked. I have a set of transparents that I never use, it's a pain, but it is tropical colors if I need it . Best thing about the standard Createx is it can be reduced with water, it doesn't really like the wicked/AA/CI reducers.

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A lot depends on what you want to paint... ie, what surface are you painting on and what subject are you painting? Some paints work better for textiles, some for harder surfaces. The illustration paints are usually very easy to work with, but are generally re-wettable, meaning after its sprayed and dried, if you get it wet, it will run... useful for some things, but if you're not expecting it, it can ruin your project.
I would advise staying far away from the straight "Createx Colors" paints. Unless you want a good character-building expirience. lol. I'm convinced that that paint is responsible for more people giving up on airbrushing than every other factor combined.

The "illustration", line, though, is a completely different story.

Opaque paints are generally a bit thicker-bodied than transparents. The advantage is that it will spray to a fixed value, then it doesn't matter if the paint is a mile thick, it won't darken if you add more. Personally, the only opaque colors I use are black and white, which I'll explain a bit more about in a minute here.

Transparent paints are generally thinner bodied, and a bit more "user friendly", especially for detail work. The problem with only using transparents, though, is that it's very difficult to get a desired color consistantly. If you hold the trigger back too long, the color will be darker than you wanted. Too soon, and it will be too light (which is better than too dark, since you can add paint a hell of a lot easier than you can take it off).
You can add white to a transparent color to make it an opaque color (called "buffering"), which can allow you to be extremely accurate with your colors. This technique is popularized/perfected and taught by Dru Blair. He generally uses what he calls a split/buffer technique, which is basically using buffered colors for the majority of the painting, then using transparents to correct colors and add details towards the end. This is the general system I use, too. It's not the easiest way to go about it, but I'd say the results speak for themselves.

The general rule of thumb is to paint starting with the lightest color values first, then working slowly darker. If you paint a lighter color over a darker color, you will get "blue shift", where the color will take on a blueish-cast (if you're using yellow, it will look greenish, since yellow+blue=green. Same for the rest of the colors). This is why many peoples "real fire" looks a bit "off". They forget that the white shifts blue, so when they spray the yellow candy, they end up with greenish flames.
Thanks guys. :)
I just spent the last hour or so reading over dru blairs stuff, now i'm all fearing the blue shift, hahah.

Foreveryoung, even if the CI colors are used on say something outside, and its dried and will still run?
Fully cure CI and clear it , it will be fine.

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Thanks guys. :)
I just spent the last hour or so reading over dru blairs stuff, now i'm all fearing the blue shift, hahah.

Foreveryoung, even if the CI colors are used on say something outside, and its dried and will still run?

Once it's clear coated, you're ok, but before its clear coated, if its re-wettable paint, then yes, it will still run if it gets wet. There have been a few people on this forum who have had some issues... you're painting along, don't realize your finger is wet from washing out your color cup, rest that wet finger on your painting to steady your hand or whatever, and bam, you got a big ol' smudge on your painting, even though you "know" the paint was dried...

A lot of people love how easy they are to work with though, and there are some effects you will only be able to achieve with re-wettable paint, but you have to be careful not to get them wet. Also, some of the illustration colors might not have the same type of UV protections as paints designed more for automotive and outdoor applications, likes tanks and helmets. If you want the great spraying characteristics of the illustration paints, then just check with the manufacturer before using them on something that will be exposed to the sun or you may wind up with a very faded paint job in no time flat.

I believe, and its only a belief, that E'tac efx illustration paints are uv resistant, but I am not 100% sure, and know almost nothing about the CI colors, so just check that out. And then once its clear coated, you should be good... I think it goes without saying, avoid using a water based clear coat if its re-wettable paint. LOl