I have only find success in doing so with the H&S airbrushes (Infinity & Evolution). With Japanese airbrushes I can either have low airflow or full blown, pretty useless.
H&S on the other hand actually increases airflow in relation to how much I suppress the trigger. As a modeler, I usually have to hold the part in one hand and my airbrush in the other, so the MAC valve is just frustrating to use. Parts also comes in all shape and sizes, sometimes I just need to reduce airflow and get into some odd place on the piece, putting the part down then playing with the MAC valve is just not practical when you consider painting >50 pieces. It is even harder to maintain different airflows as I will need to remember how much I turn the thing...
The way I use to practice is with water, minimum airflow, slowly pull back trigger (rolling the tip of my finger off the trigger) and listen to the hissing of the Airbrush. Adjust the trigger tension if needs be. Softer tension for easier control in the beginning but makes maintaining airflow harder as you pull the trigger back. When you are more comfortable, increase the spring tension for better control as you pull trigger back. Roll finger tip over trigger, not pressing it down with finger. You can also blow air on to a piece of paper by slowly suppressing the trigger to see how much air is coming out.
Is it useful if you are painting drawings with your AB? I don't know, probably not. For modelling? I say yes. I find it frustrating not being able to do this when painting my models.
hmm, that's what the trigger is for ,,, on a dual action airbrush,,, you control air and paint flow,, i have my pressure set at about 30 psi all the time
i learned to use the trigger when i started 20+ yrs ago,,,
i suggest that you practise that technique it will make it more fun and you'll paint with more self confidence
I have only find success in doing so with the H&S airbrushes (Infinity & Evolution). With Japanese airbrushes I can either have low airflow or full blown, pretty useless.
H&S on the other hand actually increases airflow in relation to how much I suppress the trigger. As a modeler, I usually have to hold the part in one hand and my airbrush in the other, so the MAC valve is just frustrating to use. Parts also comes in all shape and sizes, sometimes I just need to reduce airflow and get into some odd place on the piece, putting the part down then playing with the MAC valve is just not practical when you consider painting >50 pieces. It is even harder to maintain different airflows as I will need to remember how much I turn the thing...
The way I use to practice is with water, minimum airflow, slowly pull back trigger (rolling the tip of my finger off the trigger) and listen to the hissing of the Airbrush. Adjust the trigger tension if needs be. Softer tension for easier control in the beginning but makes maintaining airflow harder as you pull the trigger back. When you are more comfortable, increase the spring tension for better control as you pull trigger back. Roll finger tip over trigger, not pressing it down with finger. You can also blow air on to a piece of paper by slowly suppressing the trigger to see how much air is coming out.
Is it useful if you are painting drawings with your AB? I don't know, probably not. For modelling? I say yes. I find it frustrating not being able to do this when painting my models.
Controlling air is really supposed to be a Boolean thing, It’s either on or off.
In the end, your best bet is practice and learning your paint reduction ratios to where you can paint for both scenarios with trigger control.
If it works for you, then that’s great.I exclusively paint models so... trigger control and paint reduction only goes so far. I don't need to do the likes of dagger strokes, all I need to do is to "put" the paint onto the model in certain ways. I can totally understand why this wont be practical to airbrush artists who is making paintings.
Sometimes I want to splatter paints to create random spots. Sometimes I want to do "sandy" effects but the paint must be wet when it hits the surface otherwise it wont bind well with the undercoat. Sometimes I need to slap a wet coat in odd tight parts. I can go to the MAC valve and turn airflow down to accomplish that or I can just do it with the trigger. I can also try to change the distance from where I spray but many times it is impossible to do that because of the shape and size of the parts I am painting.
Due to the fact that parts comes in all shapes and sizes, I simply find controlling airflow with the trigger more seamless and fluid than say going back and fourth with the MAC valve. Since I need to hold the part with one hand, going to the MAC valve means putting the piece down... troublesome. Also, been doing it too long, I don't think I can unlearn it now![]()
Since I need to hold the part with one hand
oh, you don't use spiderman thingy -.-
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p/s: And I am pretty sure that is a Dr. Octopus thingy not Spiderman thingy.![]()
Due to the fact that parts comes in all shapes and sizes, I simply find controlling airflow with the trigger more seamless and fluid than say going back and fourth with the MAC valve. Since I need to hold the part with one hand, going to the MAC valve means putting the piece down... troublesome. Also, been doing it too long, I don't think I can unlearn it now![]()
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