CANDY 2.0 - The Learning Curve....



I started this discussion on another thread, and it turned into more than a simple ask question-get answer subject. I then decided to move the subject here.

I'm planning on a project which entails a candy painted metal box covered with stenciled tables and some airbrush artwork under/over the paint.
These are storage boxes for the Lipo batteries used in model aircraft. These batteries are somewhat touchy and can catch fire quite rapidly if they are charged inproperly, are handled roughly, or sometimes just from an internal defect.
I store mine in a several re-purposed "cash box" metal boxes.
I ordered 5 new ones, and my plan is to stencil on a battery voltage/cell chart, and safety warnings, along with some decorative art like lightning bolts etc - all under a cool blue candy topcoat.

I did a fair amount of homework on the Candy 2o paints, watching the factory videos (see below for links)

In preparation for the project, I set up 2 test panels, and coated them with several coats of 6013 silver sealer, dry sanding a bit between coats to close up the wood grain (I used a craft store wood box for test medium, assuming when it come out like in the demo video, it would be a upgraded checkbook box (it's current use).

I then coated the sealer coat with a couple light coats of 4102 Med Aluminum. and as per the videos, mixed the Marine Blue 4655 with 4030 base (measured, not eyeballed) 9 parts color to 1 part base.
I used a Cheap Chinese touchup gun 1.0 mm tip set @ 40 PSI and dry as functional just as the videos demonstrate. My gut kept telling me this is too high, and it is. I remebered the wrong video and thought they suggested higher pressures than they do. Givin my choice I usually spray clear through this gun at 25PSI despite most clears calling for higher. (you go with what works). I'm finding out what other mistakes I may be making as timeg oes along..

The 1st panel came out terrible, it seems that when the paint flow is turned down to the proper level for the dye coating to br sprayed light enough, it's atomization breaks down, and it throws large droplets (realitivly) which don't flow out into a even film.

The result was a spotted panel with what appear to be dirt in the overly thick film. I repeat with cleaner circumstances and slightly lower pressure didn't improve anything.

Next I tried shooting some of the old candy over the same ground coat, 4608 Teal, and it came out great. This was an impromptu type test, I just got the urge and painted my airbrush stand base. It wasn't really a fair comparison, as I used a .5mm cheapie airbrush and it was easy to control film thickness.

I just got done painting a external CD drive Blood Red 4650, also using an airbrush, it came out acceptable, but had a light case of the 'hot lacquer' ball bearings on the surface. It's right on the edge of drying in the air. It also is incredibly dirt sensitive (typical of all candies). The Candy 2.0 acts like it flashes too fast and it's hard to get flow out when you spray light enough for good control. I'm thinking I need to slow down the drying somehow. I think my next experiment will be to try increasing the 4030 to 20%

Ultimately It's probably just a case of finding the right gun and settings for the workpiece size, but I think slowing the dry time is going to be required or at least beneficial over the long term. It was about 65 on my little paint booth, but many times I have to paint at substantially warmer temps.

My Conclusions/impressions so far:

Use all cleanliness precautions available, G&W remover, gloves (very fingerprint sensitive) air filters etc.
Spray as wet as you can get away with - which isn't much - the dye is VERY strong, and covers a little too well.
Slow reducer may be beneficial, as may additional 4030 base, especially in warmer conditions.
When used in airbrush paintings, it's very controllable.
It will be worth the work when I figure out how to use it properly.

More as I continue to experiment...

Anybody else besides IPT (thanks for you help) using this yet?

Photos and Links to come.


Spraying the NEW Candy 2.0
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Link to using the old (4600) Candies
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Blood Red Update:

I've not had a lot of time to experiment, but I did Paint a sample piece (an external CD drive) with the Candy 2.0 Blood Red. Med silver Ground coat, I used an airbrush with a .5mm setup and it was as big as a piece as I could paint like that, (about 6" sq).
It was difficult to keep a wet edge. The Airbrush is at it's limit in paint it can move, and is limited by it's cone pattern. The final coat was dryer than I like them, and a little rough. I cleared using Rusto Clear after 12hrs, and the surface was filled 90% with he 1st coat. I ended up with 4 full wet coats clear, and will try wet sanding and polishing after it hardens well, probably a week or so.

The depth isn't as pronounced as the Createx shields, very possibly because of the less than glass smooth final coat. The color is slightly more orange than the sample show, but that is in artificial light.

Does anyone know how Createx painted the silver basecoat swirls o the shields they are marketing the Candy O2 line with??
They are astonishing, and I'd really like to learn that technique.

More info and pictures when I can,

The technique is done with a grinder on just plain metal surface. Then candied over, they may have used a clear adhesion promoter right before the candy but unsure.

Don't really know if you need a wet edge with doing the candy so much as blending it to keep you from striping or spotting. If u catch it doing this you can sometimes correct it by making passes vertically followed by horizontally. With most candies I've delt with make sure to overlap your passes at 75%.
Well ,I have just used some myself . Mix 9/1 sprayed at 28 psi through a 0.8 aurita mini gun 6" fan at 6" distance 50 /% overlap 5 light coats . I think it's very nice finish but I think next time I will go slightly lighter and use 6 coats as the dies Are very strong and it will be very easy to cause striping . I have enough left to try in my turbine gun which atomises great so I will let you know when I get it done .
A 75% overlap should fix the striping. If the dies are to strong start with a good light coat to get even coverage then start laying it on there medium. Hvlp gun or syphon guns are the way to go. I've heard turbine guns don't work very well. Tho I've never used one, they are more for home painting.
I can assure you that the apollo 7500 get turbine gun I use can spray anything just as good as any of my branded guns . It atomises brilliantly ,I have sprayed cars with custom paints and finishes including flakes etc . They work great for laying up paints with pearl/ metallic etc with great orientation . If you get the chance and have bigger projects it's worth looking at the Apollo website you will be surprised .