Candy + Clear Coat tests

O

olvi

Guest
I have used the next products:
-candy red and yellow (do not know the producer but i know it calls special ink industrial, the producer is starting with V as a 1st letter on the name, i have bought just 50grams to see if this is the right thing)
- klar 2k clear coat
- klar white
- klar transparent base called liant 236(this is the painting code, it is a resin)

So the test was the next : left side candy mixed with the transparent base and at the final apply clear coat , and in the right candy mixed with clear coat and no clear coat at the finish.
Results :
- candy + tr. base: dries faster(almost instantly), easy to work with, very easy to apply, there are no mistakes with.
- candy + clear coat : damn slow dry time, you need a clean room to apply if not the particles into the room will stick to it until it dries, nice shiny look when you work with, actually you see the final result after clear coat.

I would go with the 1st mix : candy + tr. base why??
Because the result is the same after you apply clear coat.

As you see in the pictures with the clear coat applied on the left side, I got that orange look at the clear coat, do you have any ideas why is this happening?? it is a 2k clear coat, no nitro or thinner in it, please advice.

Tomorrow on the daylight I will take some pictures too and post them.

Hope this was informative.
 

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Looks like you have a good case of "orange peel" ..... question, how many coats of clear di you use? I would wet sand with 800 grit wet/dry sand paper to get the craters out then tack, clean, clear again and repeat as needed.
 
Looks like you have a good case of "orange peel" ..... question, how many coats of clear di you use? I would wet sand with 800 grit wet/dry sand paper to get the craters out then tack, clean, clear again and repeat as needed.
I have cleared it again and the with another wet layer and it is smooth like glass.
1st I have used just one single layer of clear.

this is the result after the second layer of clearcoat
 

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Last edited by a moderator:
Hello olvi what did you use a spraycan or a gun if its was a gun did you spray with round or flat flow out off the gun?
a spray can has always a round flow out off the can.
large areas like a hood is easyer with a flat flow
and the first layer off clear it has to be a thin sticky layer the 2e layer can be much more flow and the third also
and keep a constantly speed with spraying to get a smooth layer
and you call it particuls litle dust are easyer to sand off than the orange skin
to avoid dust wet the floor and if possible the walls then you reduce it a lot
the dust particuls with a 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and you can polish it back with a car polish
 
Hello olvi what did you use a spraycan or a gun if its was a gun did you spray with round or flat flow out off the gun?
a spray can has always a round flow out off the can.
large areas like a hood is easyer with a flat flow
and the first layer off clear it has to be a thin sticky layer the 2e layer can be much more flow and the third also
and keep a constantly speed with spraying to get a smooth layer
and you call it particuls litle dust are easyer to sand off than the orange skin
to avoid dust wet the floor and if possible the walls then you reduce it a lot
the dust particuls with a 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and you can polish it back with a car polish

this was just a test, thank you for your tips and tricks.
i used my eclipse hp-cs to spray it.
i was thinking on using an mini spray gun, or a hvlp gun for the final job.
 
I'd go hvlp... Sometimes clear orange peals due to amount of clear, distance from part, air velocity... I've found hvlp guns, even just the detail guns (1.0mm) to be able to lay down a good gloss....
 
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