Clear coating drama!!

F

Fantadunamicz

Guest
Hey guys new to the fourms.
So to cut a long story short i took on a change of direction with my car and decided to airbrush it to resemble a ww2 fighter plane. Without thinking too far ahead I have airbrushed the entire car got to the clear coat and realized ohhhhh sh#t.... my situation is I painted the car with a quick dry enamal olive green (miss matched tin from paint supplys). Airbruahed using oil based enamal. And im stuck with how to clear/protect it. There is alot of dusting ect to give the dirty/weathered look, how do I go about laying a clearcoat when wet sanding ia not an option? Thanks on advance. Kind of coming to grips that I have backed myself into a corner with this one
 
My great mental powers foresee references to the introduction section comming :p

For clearcoat you will probably want to use 2k clear (that means you want to use 2k unless you have a very good reason not to :) ). This should work on anything if (empahsizing IF) that paint is thouroughly dried. You won't need to sand before clearing when you airbrushed, the paint itself is "coarse" enough to make the 2k stick (sanding is more or less never an option once you airbrushed as it would damage your art). I do hope you sanded before doing the airbrush though, else you run the risk you'll just peel off the clear and the airbrush work from the surface (test by puting on a small piece of tape if you don't pull of the airbrush paint you should be ok, if you do damage it you might want to reconsider starting the clearcoat as that will damage as easilly).

On a side note doing a decent job at clearcoating is an artform by itself and is best done in a paintbooth (dust, temperature etc). If this is the first time you are going to clear something and you want it to be a decent job I'd practice a bit on other stuff firts or bring it to a body shop and have it done proffesionaly.
 
2k conatains isocyanates it is a poison and it will give you breathing problems if it builds up in your system this is over time and you havent use proper breathing apparatus and ventilation. so not one to attempt to use with out a booth and masks etc. but yes a best option if you have a booth to use as this reacts less with different paint sorces.. and if you dont have booth access ask around bodyshops see if someone will clear coat it for you they normally love to work alongside airbushers too. clear has a teandancy to run more than base paint too.

another option if you are really going for a complete diy feel is clear plasti-coat wont look as good but equipment is readily available and can be sprayed on your drive at home no real skill needed.. i havent tried this myself but heard of others doing it..

as for you airbrushing sounds awesome what you have done -i great tip for next time is to try keep all paint types the same for the ob you do. it stops reactions happening and if the occur the hours you have put into your work will be for nothing.
 
Yup like Haasje said - how about popping along to the introductions section and tell us who you are... experience, what you use, that sort of thing. We are a friendly bunch and like to help and you can help us by giving us some more info. Here is the link...
http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

Have a read of the nettiquette as well to help understand who we are. I look forward to your introduction.

As to the clear coat... enamels are not designed for clear coats... if you want a solid job I would recommend taking it all off and re doing it. There is a high likelihood of reaction. 2k is pretty good but check with the manufacturer. As Bex mentioned, this stuff is nasty. If you don't have the correct protective equipment for you and the people around you don't spray it!
 
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