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Discussion in 'Introductions!' started by mejmea, Feb 19, 2019.
It will be interesting to see how Com Art works out.
it’s similar to E’tac
Well, I'll be as good an experiment as there could be re reducing Com Art paint with ignorance!
Speaking of ignorance, here's a potentially embarrassing question:
Different manufacturers (Creatix, Com Art, etc.) have different color palettes yet they don't all have (at least that I've seen) individual color wheels to tell you how their specific colors combine. So you just try to "find" their colors on a standard color wheel and go from their? I'm guessing that's where the book that JackEB referenced will educate me on...but still wanted to ask.
There’s really no such thing as an embarrassing questions when learning to airbrush. There are embarrassing actions, and it’s a forum bylaw that they must be shared with us all . Most of the big name brands have their versions of a fairly standard “Artists Pallet” if that’s the right wording. They have their Payne’s Greys, Burnt Umbers etc. Then they may have more unique colours like Wicked Pearl Fastback Green or Etac’s Carbon Black. But you’re right that often having a recipe for a colour allows a close mix from a specific range. Exact colour matching is a science all unto its self is something that can be worked on along side learning to sling the paint itself. It’s a good start to, grab some primary colours and learn how they effect each other while learning the basics of getting some paint down.
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You're right, all different manufactures have different pallettes to varying degrees. the book is a great guide though,
grab your reference, find the colour you want in the book and you'll get a recipe of x amount of Yellow and x amount of Blue so you have a starting point
Once you've done it a few times you start to understand a bit more about ratios and what colours are used. It wont help you in the slightest when your trying to kill (mute) the tumeric orange skin tone you seem to have laid down and that isnt just a case of laying white over the top
Ha! Airbrush forum Reality TV
Thanks for the explanations (and patience) everyone. I found the book JackEB referenced on Amazon and so will order that and the Iwata book that comes with the CS says that Com-Art paints are pre-reduced for proper spraying so I'll find out first-hand how accurate that claim.
Slowly collecting the bits and pieces. Picked up the CS at Hobby Lobby last night, picked up the Iwata sprayout pot and universal airbrush stand today at reproductive organ Blick and got a good price because I spent enough that the local store matched the online price plus my wife gets 10% off as an educator. I found a California Air Tools 1P1060S at the local Farm and Fleet and they even had it for $10 off so it was the same price as the Tooty would have been at Spraygunner. I need to get the other things ordered, primarily from Spraygunner I think, and then next week after everything gets here I'll actually be set to try and pull the trigger for the first time! Oh, and I picked up one bottle of Createx transparent black at Blick figuring that once I play with the Com-Art and get half a feel for things I'd be able to make a direct comparison and then start pulling out my remaining hair....don't know if a transparent should theoretically be easier to use than an opaque? (less pigment in the transparent?)
One more "item" related question. What should I look for to practice that's relatively inexpensive yet gives "good feedback" in helping me see/learn from my mistakes (i.e. I'm guessing spraying onto a white paper towel miiiight not really be that helpful!)? The Iwata book talks about using "airbrush paper", "two-ply drawing paper", "Bristol paper", or an "illustration board". I suspect all of those papers are significantly heavier weight than the lowly 24lb printer paper I have in the house....?
Thank you for the book referral JackEb. Mine is on the way from Amazon. Stopped in at Hobby Lobby today. If the airbrush is tagged with a yellow sticker that reads "your price" they will not honor the 40% discount. I wonder how I got away with that last time....
I see you've been hit with our profanity filter
You may find this useful / frustrating
Credit to Seamonkey who has been AWOL for way to long
I almost forgot to mention the papers.
Terraslate do free samples and its great paper, just not available here in Australia
google 'synthetic papers' and you'll get lost in all the varieties, while they may not be 'Dru Blair' paper, they will do the job nicely when you find the right one for you.
Happy to share,
it was suggested to me when I started and I've found it helpful
Holy cow. I have no idea what I was typing that translated to that! It wasn't profanity, I swear....!
Oh, wait, noooow I get it. I should have used the formal salutation I guess!
we have some amusing translations..... some havent found one, some have found them ALL !!
D!ck Blick works
Sounds like you’re off to a good start. Deep end with no floaties. Best way to learn.
I’m a ‘deep end’ kinda person... worked for me
That was a good video, thanks! I like the glass idea. I'm going to have to go check the basement for a picture frame that is currently not being used.
Holding my CS and trying to mimic some of the motions makes it clear that I have some work ahead to overcome my acute case of "Rattle Can Finger" - I always want to let up on the air valve to stop the spray instead of modulating the trigger/needle back and forth.
I remember this video. When I originally saw it I didn't know Seamonkey was a member on this forum. But I learned on a glass picture frame with Wicked. I remember trying so hard not to spider! I'm glad I didn't give up. I didn't realize this is where I adopted the sponge method for tip dry. I don't airbrush without one. I even brought my sponge to Blair, SC. Twice. Only guy holding a sponge in class!
All sounding very positive Buddy. One word of caution if the Createx Transparent you bought is from the Createx Colours range, then nowadays that’s primarily used to paint on fabric and will be super thick compared to the Comart. Doesn’t mean it’s bad or anything, just that it’s a very different kind of paint and would need a fair amount of reducing to behave similarly.
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I think I’ve found them all. Mainly when I was typing a reply during the CODE PINK fiasco! Lmao.
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I tried the ‘dry run’ with my first (generic) brush. Unless you have the air plugged in you won’t get a true feel for it.
As for “rattle can finger” .... I still occasionally do it
Hmm ok. It's labled "Createx Airbrush Colors" and I don't see "Colours" on it anywhere. On the other hand, the instructions on the label talk about both "washfast results" (as if on fabric) and hard surfaces so I'm not really sure?
Ok, well next week I hope to be able to start making a real mess instead of an imaginary one!