Connecting Iwata to California Air Tools?

Crabcar

Young Tutorling
Hi everyone. I tried searching the forum for an answer, but the best I could find is an all-brand diagram thing I didn't really understand...

I have an Iwata HP-C Plus. I want to connect it to a California Air Tools 2010A compressor. I am unclear on how. I bought this quick disconnect when I bought the brush:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...0_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=iwata+quick+disconnect

I haven't purchased a hose, water trap, or any special regulator yet. Thanks for any help.
 
The regulator is already on the compressor. It is the red knob and the gauge just before the quick connect. I would disconnect the quick connect from that regulator a put a 1/2 threaded galvanized pipe from the regulator that extends beyond the end of the tank and the place a moisture trap on the end of that pipe. Then I believe you need a 1/2" to 1/4" connector to attach the airbrush hose. Just check the sizes with your local hardware store or the manual. If you just connect the pipe to the larger quick connect on the compressor it will droop and leak at the connect. The other option is to buy a male quick connect male end and attach a air supply hose. At the end of the hose place a full sized moisture trap and mount it to your work station and then attach the airbrush hose there.

The smaller quick connect you showed is to connect the airbrush to the airbrush hose not the compressor.


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Okay, but I need a moisture tr
The smaller quick connect you showed is to connect the airbrush to the airbrush hose not the compressor.


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http://fredaw61.wixsite.com/the-artist

Ah yes, I was just mentioning that to let you know I had the airbrush end figured out, at least! :)

Question, though...is the regulator that's on the compressor good enough? I can foresee probably wanting exact control for detail work. Would a moisture trap and regulator combination piece be overkill?
 
Okay, but I need a moisture tr


Ah yes, I was just mentioning that to let you know I had the airbrush end figured out, at least! :)

Question, though...is the regulator that's on the compressor good enough? I can foresee probably wanting exact control for detail work. Would a moisture trap and regulator combination piece be overkill?

There's no harm in a second regulator and it would give better more precise control, that's what I had, I had 1/4 quick connect hose going from the compressor to second regulator which was screwed to my desk, my second regulator was 8bar max which is the same as the ones on studio compressors, they do give you more precise control than the one on your air tools one, I frequently worked with 5 to 15 psi, I also wanted to keep the compressor as is for using stapling guns for upholstery without having switch anything out.
 
Okay, but I need a moisture tr


Ah yes, I was just mentioning that to let you know I had the airbrush end figured out, at least! :)

Question, though...is the regulator that's on the compressor good enough? I can foresee probably wanting exact control for detail work. Would a moisture trap and regulator combination piece be overkill?

I forgot to mention that if your second regulator is 8bar max or under keep your compressor's regulator at 8 bar also in case you damage the second one.
 
I would disconnect the quick connect from that regulator a put a 1/2 threaded galvanized pipe from the regulator that extends beyond the end of the tank and the place a moisture trap on the end of that pipe. Then I believe you need a 1/2" to 1/4" connector to attach the airbrush hose. Just check the sizes with your local hardware store or the manual. If you just connect the pipe to the larger quick connect on the compressor it will droop and leak at the connect. The other option is to buy a male quick connect male end and attach a air supply hose. At the end of the hose place a full sized moisture trap and mount it to your work station and then attach the airbrush hose there.

http://fredaw61.wixsite.com/the-artist

I'm assuming you mean like some of the pics I've seen with all the connections going in one direction away from the regulator. Would there be anything bad about using an elbow joint and turning it toward the front, so I can have the hose connecting to the front of the compressor instead of the side?
I like the second option, but I don't really want to buy two hoses, and I want to keep the setup semi-portable for storing. I might end up mounting the moisture trap to some kind of clamp if I do it that way.
 
The California Air Tools compressor has a 1/4" female quick disconnect fitting attached to the air outlet. All you need is 1/4" male fitting to attach to the end of an Iawata air hose, and it should plug right in - https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-Industrial-Interchange-Connector/dp/B0024MJD50/ref=sr_1_17?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502275722&sr=1-17&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin:7067238011

There's a problem. That part has an NPT threaded connection. The 1/4 end of an Iwata hose is supposedly BSP. Now I'm lost. I had no idea this part would present such complication.
 
The standard Iwata hose will connect to 1/4 NPT(national pipe thread) fitting This is not rocket science . I think you are reading to much into what it really is. http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Iwata_/_Tamiya_Braided_Airbrush_Hose&cat=306 shows that the Iwata hose is 1/4 NPT fitting on the compressor side and 1/8 on the airbrush side .Which the 1/4 will screw right into a male fitting to hook to the compressor and the 1/8 side will screw straight into the airbrush or the water trap or the quick connect
 
Put some teflon pipe tape on the threads and it will seal it. The only difference between BSP and NPT is the angle of the threads.
 
There are three type of threads
1. Normal NPT that uses a 60 degree angle and the more it threads in the better the seal is.
2. BSPT which is almost identical to a NPT but uses a 55 degree angle taper and will usually work fine with a npt connection.
3.BSPP which is what iwata and grex use for the airbrush side. It has no taper, uses an oring to seal and will not thread onto a bspt/npt thread.

If you do need to go from a npt/bspt thread to a bspp you can find adapter on ebay/amazon or a mcmaster Carr or grainger type of supply chain. They are also used alot for oil/water sending units on alot of cars.

You can use the original regulator but use a 2nd 0-60 psi gauge with a tee fitting for a more accurate psi reading. I attached a picture of the tee setup I am using.

The red filter is from the air compressor it goes into a t fitting one side of the t is the gauge the other side is the line going to the airbrush.

Using a normal regulator a can adjust my psi in 1-2psi increments.

IMG_20170809_29115.jpg IMG_20170809_35124.jpg
 
I've never understood why there has to be so many thread angles and sizes. Why can't the world have one standard. It would keep me from pulling the rest of my hair out which I don't have much left anyway.
 
I've never understood why there has to be so many thread angles and sizes. Why can't the world have one standard. It would keep me from pulling the rest of my hair out which I don't have much left anyway.
It boggles the mind. Different threads for different applications I can understand but I suspect the majority of it is threads developed on opposite sides of the Atlantic!
 
Yep. About everything we buy here in the USA is made in China or elsewhere. It's about all metric but we still hold on to the standard sizes for what we happen to make.
 
Okay, but I need a moisture tr


Ah yes, I was just mentioning that to let you know I had the airbrush end figured out, at least! :)

Question, though...is the regulator that's on the compressor good enough? I can foresee probably wanting exact control for detail work. Would a moisture trap and regulator combination piece be overkill?
The regulator will be mor than enough. You can put a second regulator on but it won't be necessary. What you can do is add a Mack valve at the brush so you can adjust your air right in you hand rather than going to the compressor. Some brushes have Mack valves on them and some don't. You could leave the regulator at 30 to 40 psi and then turn it down further at the brush. Just don't get confused why the brush won't spray even though your air is way up. Like yours truly with my Micron C plus. I by mistake left my Mack valve almost closed when doing stippling effect and forgot to turn it up.


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I just run a standard hose out of the compressor, which hooks up to my regulator/moisture trap by my painting table, which then has a connector for my airbrush hose. It works well for me because my compressor is over by the wall outlet, and its not quite so ear-splitting when I'm painting. I also don't have any issues with moisture even though I live in Florida and paint outdoors. I think the long run of hose helps cool the air down before it hits the moisture trap.
 
If you need a 1/4 npt to 1/8 airbrush connector you can get an adapter and a 10' hose from harborfreight for I believe 6-7 bucks.
 
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