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Discussion in 'Paints' started by JackEb, Feb 7, 2020.
Well make sure you mask up, it may trigger your migraines !
I have been working with the E'tac paints by themselves, and I am really growing to enjoy using them. Especially in the drier winter months, I can see spending much more time with them.
I also received a bottle of 4013 yesterday, and will spend some time with it over the next week or so. Got a lot of stuff on my plate to play with, so working my way through all of it, and still making sense of it all will take a while.
I love the etac paints! But I find after a few layers I can’t get the same manipulation as I can with CI. It goes a bit gummy. Smoke sepia is a great colour!
yeah, it does get kind of sticky when thick - I have been using the AG 2050 that Ron recommended, and it does for sure create a harder finish, when cured. The downside is that it has a window of work-ability that shortens the after application manipulation window.
I really find it refreshing to use as compared to the constant fiddling with Createx
And it smells great - which is a bad thing really!!! how do you like the battery compressor? Is it heavy?
it is actually very light. Air output is quite soft, but adequate for some fine detail work using a finely reduced paint. The provided brush on this unit seems to prefer a bit higher air pressure to atomize real well (not complaining about $10 brush). I did some work with both an Olympos SP, and Richpen Phoenix, and they worked really quite well. Still have some learning and experimenting to do with it - it is still operating on the original charge.
Thanks! Sounds promising!
I went and weighed the little guy- 170grams, or 6 Oz. I don't think it will replace a regular compressor, by any means - but, I think for someone just getting started, it could offer a cost effective way of getting off the ground. The brush will be important, as it has to work at the pressure the compressor produce. I have worked with a Sparmax SP20X, an it did really well.
To give an example - I don't think I would use it to prime a model (too thick, and too much lay down needed). But, I think it would excel at doing hand painted camo, or weathering.
So strapping a micron to it probably won’t work too well. But at the same time I guess this is aimed at more bigger nozzle sizes!
Actually, the Micron may work well, but with over-reduced paint and very small details. I used the Richpen and SP, because they are very like the Micron. Low air output pressure, will work better with small nozzles, and very small exit holes in the air cap. I want to try the Neo, but need to figure out an adapter for it, as it does not have a valve pin that sticks down like the others.
Pretty sure Dru used it with a PS770, which is very much like the CM-C+ when he was at Spraygunners Chroma Air Studio. Almost positive there is video floating around.
Ok, I’m thinking backwards....... damn
I use mine for cleaning too no use wasting it,and works as well as restorer to me!
Being that Createx has released 4011 (the claimed go to reducer) and 4013 at roughly the same time. I seem to see more comments about 4013 being great and there’s very little noise about 4011.
4011 has been around for a very long time. It used to be the recommended reducer. 4012 was supposed to be an improvement and was released maybe about 10 years ago. They were going to discontinue 4011 at one point, but a lot of folk complained, eapecially AA users. So they kept it around.
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That’s a good point. I knew it had been around for a while, but I thought it had been reformulated, but what you’re saying makes sense.
Now you're making it tempting for me to order one and give it a go myself . Look forward to see your full review on it after you have had more time to really test it.
Well thats been an interesting read. I really enjoyed reading it all. over the years i've used a few different brands..
I started off with 2010 reducer (can you tell its been a while ago) and then went onto 2011. (made my own with distilled water, Isopropyl Alcohol and a drop of glycerine per 120ml) it worked really well with the old AutoAir and Wicked jet black I was given.
I still have some 2011 but i've not really used any older createx product for a while. I've neveer had any Wicked apart from the jet black and the last time used some createx it was CI which I got free from the KKBO Simon Murray demo, I think I painted the Herman Munster I sent to Cheryl @CALz AyrWKz From memory it wasn't too bad with whatever reducer came with it. (I havent looked but it could be 2012 reducer).
I love etac efx just mix it with water to reduce and GO.
I have some Etac AG 2050 but have only used it as a varnish, however I now have a spray can of Liquitex satin varnish which is less hassle to use.
I also have a bottle of condition air which is just a retarder to reduce tip dry. To be honest I don't get tip dry with etac so rarely use it but i have used it with other paints..
Trident had a different reducer and I found with the help of Mick Neill a water based reducer he used in automotive paint repair which worked perfectly called ProSpray H2O (not sure if you can get it now). Didnt get on with this paint much so its sat in its box and has probably dried up in the bottles. I will have to check out all the old paint..
I also use Spectra-Tex from Badger, cheap, works great with water reduction, and I used it for Tshirts and painting on paper. Not so good for real high detail stuff but its not totally ruled out, it dies spray quite fine.
Never really did any experimentation with different thinners as we call them over here, I've not really had many problems to be honest. The last paints I brought were the airbrush series waterbased from Mick Neill before he closed shop. Work great from the bottle but reduce with a 95% destilled water 5% IPA + a drop if glycerine mix. Unfortunately can't get it any more. I will probably go back to my etac efx once i've run out. Might be a while though since i've not painted in a while.
Great imput from everyone and I hope you createx users have better luck in the future with the reducer mixes.. Always worth a try with the homebrew mix, only a tiddly bit of ipa so not too toxic but use a mask for certain.
Thanks everyone this is why this forum is so good.
This is legitimately the answer according to Chad at spray gunner. I stopped in back in July and he told me the 4013 reducer still contains butyl alcohol but they added a small amount of isopropyl to enhance flow, drying and adhesion. At least that’s my understanding