Createx 4030

[Keifer smeaton]

I am doing an airbrushing job on a motorcycle and have mixed up my 4030 with illustration paint at 10% but i am having some flow issues. I researched and found the you have to mix the 4030 with the paint first then add reducer, which I tried and failed so I’m asking is it possible to use illustration without 4030 for automotive applications? It will have a 2k clear applied afterwards. I do know the 4030 can go off in the bottle but iv onle had it one week and made sure it was sealed properly and it seems to be ok in that sense I can hear the ball rattling inside.

 

[AndreZA]

You can definateley skip the 4030.

 

[Keifer smeaton]

Perfect I will thanks

 

[SiRoxx]

As André said, you can skip the 4030. But out of interest how much are you reducing it and what airbrush are you using?


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[JackEb]

I’ve given up on 4030. Just because you’ve only had it a week doesn’t mean anything. It could have been on the retailers shelf for awhile, it could have been exposed to excessive heat or even extreme cold.
you certainly don’t have to use anything other than reducer (if needed)
4030 apparently dries harder but if you are planning on a 2k clear it’s just wasting product

 

[Leakyvalve]

I’ve given up on 4030. Just because you’ve only had it a week doesn’t mean anything. It could have been on the retailers shelf for awhile, it could have been exposed to excessive heat or even extreme cold.
you certainly don’t have to use anything other than reducer (if needed)
4030 apparently dries harder but if you are planning on a 2k clear it’s just wasting product

10000000% I could never get it to work for me... certainly not the miracle fluid Coast Airbrush and Createx's hired advertisers keep pushing. Certainly learned my lesson. In the fridge it went after quite a few ounces went solid and were never opened.

 

[JackEb]

10000000% I could never get it to work for me... certainly not the miracle fluid Coast Airbrush and Createx's hired advertisers keep pushing. Certainly learned my lesson. In the fridge it went after quite a few ounces went solid and were never opened.

In the fridge? Odd place to keep a lump of polyurethane that is of no use

 

[Leakyvalve]

In the fridge? Odd place to keep a lump of polyurethane that is of no use

I know. I now and then have that urge that maybe I need to try to use it again, that maybe I wasn't patient enough.

 

[Keifer smeaton]

As André said, you can skip the 4030. But out of interest how much are you reducing it and what airbrush are you using?


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As André said, you can skip the 4030. But out of interest how much are you reducing it and what airbrush are you using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m using the harder and steenback cr plus with a o.2 and a custom micron with 0.23 so there’s not much room for any bits a pieces to pass through I over reduce for fine lines and maybe 50/50 other than that .

 

[Keifer smeaton]

Thanks everyone. guess I won’t be using 4030 the paint is spraying perfect without it.

 

[SiRoxx]

Glad you’ve gotten round the problem. I can’t explain it, but Candy mixed with 4030 reduced 1:1 flows great through my Micron at 30psi. I played with pressure and mixes and 30psi suddenly became the sweet spot. I was down on 4030 too and while I don’t think it’s needed at all. I suddenly got what the company was talking about.


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[wickedartstudio]

Illustration sprays extremely well without any additive in my opinion. For general automotive airbrush artwork there is really no need to add 4030 or 4050. The only time I really recommend using one of those additives is to protect artwork when masking techniques will be used over the art. Even then, I would rather shoot two coats of just 4050 over the existing work to protect it compared to mixing a little bit into all of my paint. Work smarter, not harder...

Fr what it's worth, the UVLS clear is a far superior product in my opinion compared to 4030. It is stable, very durable and has a higher solids content.

 

[JackEb]

Illustration sprays extremely well without any additive in my opinion. For general automotive airbrush artwork there is really no need to add 4030 or 4050. The only time I really recommend using one of those additives is to protect artwork when masking techniques will be used over the art. Even then, I would rather shoot two coats of just 4050 over the existing work to protect it compared to mixing a little bit into all of my paint. Work smarter, not harder...

Fr what it's worth, the UVLS clear is a far superior product in my opinion compared to 4030. It is stable, very durable and has a higher solids content.

It was after seeing you video on the ‘bad’ bottles of 4030 that I checked mine .... 2 x 16 0z unopened bottles turned to gloop !! Not happy !

 

[Keifer smeaton]

Illustration sprays extremely well without any additive in my opinion. For general automotive airbrush artwork there is really no need to add 4030 or 4050. The only time I really recommend using one of those additives is to protect artwork when masking techniques will be used over the art. Even then, I would rather shoot two coats of just 4050 over the existing work to protect it compared to mixing a little bit into all of my paint. Work smarter, not harder...

Fr what it's worth, the UVLS clear is a far superior product in my opinion compared to 4030. It is stable, very durable and has a higher solids content.

Sounds good thanks. I just presumed you needed the 4030 mix for automotive work I’ll give it a miss. Been watching your videos on YouTube all week I was scared excrementless to cut my design from the masking tape when it’s on the bike. So I sprayed craft glue on my pre cut design cut by hand, let it dry to low tack and stuck it on. Leaves no residue and no paint creeping under. What you think of that ?

 

[wickedartstudio]

I was scared excrementless to cut my design from the masking tape when it’s on the bike. So I sprayed craft glue on my pre cut design cut by hand, let it dry to low tack and stuck it on. Leaves no residue and no paint creeping under. What you think of that ?

I like it! The ability to think outside of the box is an advantageous quality to have for any custom painter.

Cutting on your painted surface is nerve racking for sure and it takes practice to become proficient at it without cutting too deep. Masking tape is generally thicker and harder to cut through cleanly. In those instances where you need to cut a mask on your surface, I would suggest using a paper based transfer tape instead. They are generally semi-opaque so you can see through it if needed. The material is also thinner and easier to cut (with less pressure) compared to masking tape.

 

[wickedartstudio]

It was after seeing you video on the ‘bad’ bottles of 4030 that I checked mine .... 2 x 16 0z unopened bottles turned to gloop !! Not happy !

I was surprised by the amount of comments on those videos from people that experienced the same issue. I didn't expect the problem to be as big as it apparently was.

 

[JackEb]

I was surprised by the amount of comments on those videos from people that experienced the same issue. I didn't expect the problem to be as big as it apparently was.

There were a lot here that had the same issue, many of us have abandoned 4030

 

[Keifer smeaton]

I like it! The ability to think outside of the box is an advantageous quality to have for any custom painter.

Cutting on your painted surface is nerve racking for sure and it takes practice to become proficient at it without cutting too deep. Masking tape is generally thicker and harder to cut through cleanly. In those instances where you need to cut a mask on your surface, I would suggest using a paper based transfer tape instead. They are generally semi-opaque so you can see through it if needed. The material is also thinner and easier to cut (with less pressure) compared to masking tape.

Thanks for your help I’ll keep that in mind!

 

[JackEb]

Please take note of the info @wickedartstudio provided.
‘Masking tape’ from the hardware shop isn’t the tape you should be using. Always use a new blade, buy them in bulk if you plan on doing this regularly as they blunt quickly.

Masking tape is generally thicker and harder to cut through cleanly. In those instances where you need to cut a mask on your surface, I would suggest using a paper based transfer tape instead. They are generally semi-opaque so you can see through it if needed. The material is also thinner and easier to cut (with less pressure) compared to masking tape.

 

[Keifer smeaton]

Thanks everyone!

Please take note of the info @wickedartstudio provided.
‘Masking tape’ from the hardware shop isn’t the tape you should be using. Always use a new blade, buy them in bulk if you plan on doing this regularly as they blunt quickly.

I tried fleetwood low tack washi tape. Not for automotive work but it actually seems to work well. It’s semi transparent and easy to cut.