Createx Tim Gore Line Opinion Needed

G

GAWD

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Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make this question as detailed as possible.
I've been airbrushing resin kits for about 15 years now, if not more. I started with a paint brush but moved on to airbrushing and haven't looked back. When I first started I used Delta craft paints. Then moved on to Createx AutoAir. The reducing and mixing was hell. The paint was thick and gummy. I kept buying and buying bottles thinking I was doing something wrong until I finally gave up after spending hundreds of dollars. Paint wouldn't stick to primer, It would peel off or gunk up in the airbrush. Nearly gave up airbrushing all together as I really did not enjoy the process of trying to find a way to get the paint to flow. From Createx I tried Spectra Tex....same issue, moved on to Vallejo. Great paint but expensive. The tip dry bothers me. I mean it's almost instantaneous even with Flow Aid. Again spending a ton of money on those little bottles I gave up and moved on to Golden Fluids (not High Flow). The customer service at Golden is just that, GOLDEN. They answered all my questions, got their paints then their Airbrush medium and off I went! The pain flows, the tip dry is minimal but they are soooo expensive.
That being said, my next project has a lot of skin tones and brusied skin tones. I came across the Tim Gore BloodLine and LifeLine sets. Now I love Golden paints and their virtual mixer helps getting the colors right but I'm tired of mixing colors. Tired of mixing batches that don't come out perfect and end up literally wasting $$$.

What are Createx Illustration paints like? Especially the Tim Gore line.
Do they truly spray right out of the bottle?
Do I have start playing with reducers and buying other reducers / mediums as well?
Do they clean easily? Every time I read a post about Createx paints the number one complaint is the cleaning process. With Golden I spray my cleaner and RARELY have to take my brush apart.
Are Createx Illustraion paints "made" for things like resin kits? Are they tough paints? Hold up well or can they be easily scratched off primers?

I tried getting some reviews or even looking for anyone talking about the paints but haven't come across much. I'm trying to avoid spending another 200$ of paints (that's what the sets will cost me). I'm in Canada, I don't have any local shops that carry the line or any Createx Illustration or Wicked Detail for that matter. Getting a single 1oz bottle would be around 20$ after shipping. I can't get my hands on a sample. Hoping someone here can tell me their experience or if any guru's think I'm making a mistake by switching over from Golden. Love Golden, no issues with the paint just would rather have something whether I can reach over grab the color I want and spray rather than...stop..mix..checking..mix..check again..ok. Spray for a few minuts then go back to Chemistry and mixing.

Thank you all in advance.
 
CI would need to be mixed with 4004 or 4030 for hard surface applications. It normally does need some reducer for small nozzles but with the 4004 it would need some on anything under a .5 for low pressure for sure. You're basically making wicked detail out of it when you do that.

That said it's a favorite of mine for the versatility.
I think badger sprays a little better, in .3's...

If you struggled with badger and auto air that much but golden is working great for you .....I'd say it's 50/50 whether you'll love or hate CI

That's as about as much info as I can give.
 
You mentioned you tried Createx autoair, hate to say it but they’re two different beasts.
Autoair is designed mainly for sprayguns and automotive work.
Createx has several lines in its range
“Airbrush colors” is a textile paint
Wicked and wicked detail are often used for graphics on vehicles
Illustration is aimed at fine arts, having said that, the bloodline is also in the illustration range.

Tip dry is the nature of waterbourne paints so get use to it, the right reduction helps but doesn’t eliminate it.

E’TAC EFX are the only water based paint I’ve tried that has minimal tip dry to the point where it’s almost non existant

Illustration has the finest pigment in the range and as such will spray ‘straight from the bottle’ with the right psi.
Normally you would still add a bit of reducer as it offsets tip dry.

As for local suppliers try @Maple Art. They’re in Canada and while they may not be within walking/driving distance They do stock Createx. Once the holidays are over give Donna a call and I’m sure you’ll get the advice you are seeking.

Createx can be a pain when you first start out with it but some perseverance will see you getting to a happy place, but you will need reducers and highly recommend getting the restorer to help clean your brush.
Cleaning is just a case of flushing well with airbrush cleaner or even windex with ammonia, flush until it sprays clear and ensure all the cleaner is gone, pull the needle, clean that and put it back and flush again.

You mentioned paints ‘gumming up’ ... paints won’t like being frozen/thawed so that may well be the case given your locale on the globe.

You haven’t mentioned what brush you’re using, what needle size or what PSI you’re spraying at so we can only advise on what info we have.
 
First off a introduction would have been nice due to I do not know anything about you or how long you have been painting.
Tim's sets both the life line and the blood line are great set but if you can going for realism you will still need to tweak the colors to match them .
But as I said this is where a proper introduction would have been more helpful being I do not know what airbrushes you are using .
 
Ive been airbrushing for 15 years or so. Brushes are all Iwata Hi Line. Have a Sotar and an Eclipse SBS but they are rarely used . Needles are the common .3 and .2 . Air pressure is about 20 - 25. Nothing out of the ordinary .i only spray resin kits. Nothing else and no other surface. Primer is usually from automotive rattlecan or Badger Stylenrez (spelling?). I know about Maple airbrush, only supplier in Canada really.

Sounds like clean up is like any other paint if Windex can get it done.

Thank you for all the info.

Which restorer would be needed to help clean the brush?

Properly thinned will CI spray anything like Golden High Flow? Comart?
 
I use windex to clean between colors, but all my brushes have Teflon seal and it’s never in there more than necessary. I use a spray out pot, not into the air.
 
JackEb said:
I use windex to clean between colors, but all my brushes have Teflon seal and it’s never in there more than necessary. I use a spray out pot, not into the air.
Click to expand...
Seems like herb was talking about as reducer.

Only reason I don't clean with Windex is because I know I'd forget to rinse it out and come back a week later to some green crud in there.
 
Thanks for tagging me guys :). Sorry I am so quiet - burning the candle at both ends finally caught up with me, physically and emotionally, but I'm on the mend and look forward to the new year. It looks like the questions have been answered, although I'm not a "fan" of using windex to clean airbrushes (I know many are) If you have any questions please give me a call in the new year. I have many customers who use Autoborne Sealer and CI to paint resin with no issues. Reducers such as 4012 enhance the spray-ability of the paint enhancing the ability to spray at much lower PSI.

5618 - Airbrush cleaner or Iwata Medea Airbrush cleaner will work fine for cleaning your airbrush
 
Nope! some folks not only use it to clean their airbrush but also in a homemade reducer. So anytime someone says I use windex I think of a homemade reducer and with as much as paint have changed over the past 10+ years can cause it to really gum up.
I have even had the 4012 reducer turn Wicked to gum or seeds depending on the time of day so I only use the automotive 4020 reducer now and so far have not had any issues.
 
Like I mentioned in another thread my main paints are E'tac Ps, E'tac efx, Golden High Flows, Golden Fluids, and Golden tube a acrylics. I cut those down normally with Golden Airbrush Medium, Golden Retarder, and Distilled water. But, I have been experimenting with Createx Candy2o, Wicked White, and their 4012 & 4020 reducers. And I gotta say E'tac Ps white with 20% 4012 & 5% 4020 is the smoothest spraying white I have ever used. Also works in smaller ratios with the other colors (if I showed you a pic of how much etac I have on hand people would $#[+), so I am trying to stick to E'tac due to my enormous supply. However being how good I've gotten Wicked to spray with their reducers had me looking today at the illustration colors. Being that I have a BA in painting the Grisle Gray with the CMYK colors looked intriguing, especially when they mentioned underpainting as a technique, cause that's how I paint, and those grays looked like they were designed not to color shift.
 
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