Cup info for Thayer and Chandler Airbrush

[Deiimos]

Hello,

First off, I’ve never used an airbrush. I got a freebie old Thayer & Chandler airbrush several years ago, however, the side cup is missing. I think it is a model A, not sure of the vintage, perhaps 80’s.

Does anyone have any up close detailed photos of a compatible cup, one that would function properly with this particular airbrush, so I can try to make a cup to test it? I’m trying to understand the pickup tube inside the cup, and how far the side tube extends into the airbrush body, is this last part critical for it to siphon?

I did browse ebay and google, and could not find any detailed photos of the cups.

Yeah this airbrush may not be in the best condition, but is just something to play with. It does flow air and the needle / dual trigger seems to function okay with just air feeding through. I figure with all the random projects I've made / tinkered with over the years, and the hoard of junk I've saved, I might be able to make some sort of cup that will work.

Thanks for any info.


Photos of it.

 

[2Diverse]

Although DaveG is the definitive answer I believe that this brush is from the 1970s or newer. That is from the tapered handle. If the case is flat topped that would also add to verifying the time period. T&C went to a plastic case after this red one although I am not sure what year that started.

I could supply pics of one but I can't give you the measurements you would need.

What country are you in?

 

[Deiimos]

Thanks for the reply.

United States, Columbus Ohio. Sorry, I usually have that filled out in my profile on forums.

Can wait and see if anyone else has any info on the cups, but photos alone may also help, just to see how the tubes are in the cup. Might be useful enough to try to DIY something, I will probably try to make some sort of cup either way just to play around.

Just to add for a reference, here is the case.

 

[DaveG]

You can use the color cup from the Badger Model 100 - the stem is the same size. If you don't have the instruction sheet, then I will warn you - the front cap will probably need to be turned out about 3.5 turns before spraying - they have adjustable caps, and this was generally the starting point.

Edit - looking at the brush, I would say 70's - 80's. The body looks like it has been exposed to the deteriorating foam found in the plastic cases. It was transferred to an older case for continued storage.

 

[2Diverse]

I sent you a PM (Private Message).

 

[Deiimos]

You can use the color cup from the Badger Model 100 - the stem is the same size. If you don't have the instruction sheet, then I will warn you - the front cap will probably need to be turned out about 3.5 turns before spraying - they have adjustable caps, and this was generally the starting point.

Edit - looking at the brush, I would say 70's - 80's. The body looks like it has been exposed to the deteriorating foam found in the plastic cases. It was transferred to an older case for continued storage.

Thanks for the info. I'll look up that cup a bit more as well and see if I can find any photos of that one. I may still try to make some sort of cup for this to test it out. If I can do it with old junk / materials I have accumulated over the years it won't cost me anything to try, so won't hurt anything.

I will remember that about the front cap, thank you, it is fully screwed on at the moment, but does unscrew fine.

And that could be what happened with the case / corrosion on it. I have no history of it prior to getting it so that is certainly a possibility. I think it will still function after a bit of cleaning, but that remains to be seen I suppose. At the very least it passes air and the needle / spring moves okay.

Thanks again for the info!

 

[Deiimos]

I sent you a PM (Private Message).

I replied to that as well. Thanks.

 

[DaveG]

Provided the nozzle is in fair shape, it should work no problem. I have a few Model A's as old as the first few years of the 1900's - they have the potential to not only work, but work real well.

This is the Badger color cup -

 

[2Diverse]

This might give you an idea on how the cup is designed. This is an Iwata Micron cup. Most should be similar, I would think.

 

[DaveG]

hehehe, pretty funny (what timing!) that these pictures of a cup I made showed up as a memory on FB today -

 

[Deiimos]

Provided the nozzle is in fair shape, it should work no problem. I have a few Model A's as old as the first few years of the 1900's - they have the potential to not only work, but work real well.

This is the Badger color cup -
View attachment 67510

Thanks, and yeah I don't think this one looks too bad yet and was saved before it got worse, and with your encouragement on them, and browsing a ton on them, they seemed to be overall decent quality, I'm hopeful of it working.

 

[Deiimos]

hehehe, pretty funny (what timing!) that these pictures of a cup I made showed up as a memory on FB today -

View attachment 67512

View attachment 67513

This might give you an idea on how the cup is designed. This is an Iwata Micron cup. Most should be similar, I would think.
View attachment 67511

Thanks! These will be very helpful.

Any homemade cup I do won't be quite so nice and might be a total failure, but I have always been up for tinkering and don't mind at least trying.

I did see a gun cutaway style view, but could not find that one with the cup! I did actually browse google images quite a bit and did not see that, and it definitely gives me a much clearer understanding how they work / made.

Thanks again to all who have replied, it is appreciated!

 

[Deiimos]

hehehe, pretty funny (what timing!) that these pictures of a cup I made showed up as a memory on FB today -

View attachment 67512

View attachment 67513

Oh I forgot I also wanted to say, very nice cup you made! I meant to say that in my other post but forgot, really looks amazing!

 

[Electric Cat Dude]

Provided the nozzle is in fair shape, it should work no problem. I have a few Model A's as old as the first few years of the 1900's - they have the potential to not only work, but work real well.

This is the Badger color cup -
View attachment 67510

I have been curious about that. Will a Badger color cup like that designed for the Model 100S fit a Thayer and Chandler model A?

 

[DaveG]

I have been curious about that. Will a Badger color cup like that designed for the Model 100S fit a Thayer and Chandler model A?

yes.

 

[DaveG]

The Thayer Chandler Model A has it's roots dated back to the late 1880's-1890's. The brush was largely designed by OC Wold while working for Thayer Chandler. It varied a little in the first decade or so of it's production, but once they started with the removable head variation circa the mid 1920's, they remained pretty much the same until they changed the shape of the body in the 1960's. Small production changes here and there, but nothing major. I am pretty sure that the design change of the body, when they went with the taper from the trigger forward as well as a tapered handle, corresponded with the introduction of the Badger Model 100. It was also the start of Badger as an airbrush company as they were a job shop or tool manufacturer (or some such thing,) up until that time - 1964? It looks to me like they were given the body of the Model A (or permission to use it) - maybe they were even the ones doing the production of it at that time? Who knows? Then they made the rest of the parts to fit. Variations between it, and the Model A are few and far between, and they are very minor. Far more dimensions are the same than vary. The bottom half of the air valve casing is slightly different, although the threads into the body are the same. The valve pin and trigger base vary in minor ways. The handle, while having the same shape as the original Model A, had the plug in the back - while called a counterweight, I suspect it was actually just a plug to block off the threads that were there to accommodate the needle chuck of the model 200 single action - easier to make one handle in production, than make variations along the way. Even the fact that the handles were made from aluminum and anodized just like the TC's points to a common manufacturing home. Of course Badger incorporated a needle packing seal, something TC never did. Interestingly enough, there is another American made brush that shares the same body blank as the tapered version of the Model A, too. The Binks Raven is dimensionally identical to the TC tapered body, while the rest of the brush is quite different. Pretty sure you could have thrown a stone from one of these manufactures to any of the others without trouble.

The brushes here are a late 1940's Model A in the back, a mid 1960's Badger 100 (first generation indicated by the sticker branding, and the adjustable regulator head), and a mid to late 1960's Model A in front.

 

[Electric Cat Dude]

Mr Blue - my old Badger 100S. 30 years and still going on strong. Only upgrades that have been made to it are a new Badger regulator with the crown cap, and a Grex 1/8” male QD fitting.

 

[DaveG]

Hehehe, Mr Black. TC Model A ca.1913 (yes, @109 years old) and still going strong. All I did with this one was (deep) clean it, and touch up the needle tip a little. Pretty sure it is a Badger QC fitting in the photo. Works like a charm. The old TC nozzles were crazy consistent, and atomized really well. The handle design changed on these in 1915, with a half round at the back rather than the flat back. Also of note is the non-removable head base - removable heads showed up in the mid 1920's (ca. 1925 close as I have been able to pinpoint).

 

[Electric Cat Dude]

Hehehe, Mr Black. TC Model A ca.1913 (yes, @109 years old) and still going strong. All I did with this one was (deep) clean it, and touch up the needle tip a little. Pretty sure it is a Badger QC fitting in the photo. Works like a charm. The old TC nozzles were crazy consistent, and atomized really well. The handle design changed on these in 1915, with a half round at the back rather than the flat back. Also of note is the non-removable head base - removable heads showed up in the mid 1920's (ca. 1925 close as I have been able to pinpoint).

View attachment 67517

It’s amazing how well built and how reliable many of those old guns were. Heck, that badger of mine still surprises me and can get my Iwatas a run for their money!