Thanks manNice job Mike! That came our looking great. How did you fix the issue you had?
Regarding the clear coat. I’m pretty sure Tamiya cans will be a good plan. I can’t remember what paint you’re using. But if it’s waterbased, make the first couple coats of clear pretty light, otherwise it can react and wrinkle the paint underneath.
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A little patience, research and practice goes a long way Buddy. You did great with this job, I’m glad to hear it’s given you a boost in confidence.Not gonna lie, 3 days ago I couldn't airbrush to save my life, I didn't practise since July last year, 3 days ago without any more practise but a little more theory (last year) I picked up the brush and with a odd new confidence, away I went.
I'm stupidly proud of myself this morning.
The confidence this has given me is incredible.
Nah, masking just takes a little patience and thought. There are a bunch of tricks to prevent paint bleeding under the masking, one of which is to spray a little Intercoat or transparent base against the edges before colour. So if there are any gaps then the clear fills them. Another good tip for models is to have some cocktail sticks handy that you can use the get the mask firmly down in tight areas or small body lines. You’ll be fine, and if not it’s only a little paint and some time, it’ll come off and you can go again having learnt something.Thanks buddy.
Got another body on order the next challenge is to mask small area that I want leaving blac, like door pillars and grills etc.
That I'm dreading
Great job Mike. Looking forward to the next project.
That looks cool Mike. Apologies if I’m preaching to the choir, but make sure you’ve got a good respirator if you’re using solvent car paint. But on the plus side, I’m sure you’ll find the solvents nice to work with compared with Waterbased.I'm now on with using real car paint, this is totally new and has a good learning curve to make it a challenge for me
So far
So Good
patience taught by nature elizabeth barrett browning
HummmThat looks cool Mike. Apologies if I’m preaching to the choir, but make sure you’ve got a good respirator if you’re using solvent car paint. But on the plus side, I’m sure you’ll find the solvents nice to work with compared with Waterbased.
Generally (that’s a big generally), the solvents are easier to get to flow, they dry far less on the top and are simple to clean out. But essentially the same rules apply. They will need the right pressure, nozzle size and reduction to spray. A good starting point is that if the manufacturer says to reduce 1:1 for spray gun, then start with 2:1 for airbrush. So 2 parts reducer to 1 part paint.Hummm
I've actually had more trouble getting it to spray than waterbased ones, what is it that should make it nicer to use? I'm still a green n00b it seems