DeVilbiss Super63 Dissassembly

jord001 said:
I'm 95% positive they will fit, I've not got a sprite to check but they look exactly the same on the strip down pictures.
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I checked the manuals and parts numbers and there unfortunately is little in common between the 2 brushes. The only parts that appear the same are the needle/nozzle and some seals along with the post 1980 airvalve. I would have thought more would have been common between brushes and was surprised as well.
Regards,
Chris
 
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2Diverse said:
I got mine:).


And I don't think there is a prettier shaped cup on any other airbrush. This cup shape/design is gorgeous, at least to me.

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I’ve been taking a look at the forum and I found this thread....Congrats! I’m glad you found this beautiful and I agree with you: I'm also in love with "this cup/shape design"...so much that I have three of them (I’m trying to contain myself so I don’t buy two more that I have in sight on a local page :cry:) Yes....I think I have a hard AAD syndrome :lipssealed:
One of mine was new, unused. Other of them was medium used and another one was very used. I first bought the very used and it was clogged with paint dry. It wasn't functional although it had moving parts, so I decided cleaning up and try to get it to work. I totally disassembly it (all except the neddle glans, it is still stuck) and cleaning up. I serviced it and reassembly it. The neddle was a little bit bent, but at least I could straighten it. I also could unclog the nozzle without damage it but the rubber nozzle washer was broken and I decided to use as a provisional seal, an H&S's rubber air valve washer, in order to see if the airbrush could work. It did it.
It was a hell disassembling and re-assembling the trigger :confused:
I lubricated all parts and connected the brush to the compressor and....it does work!!!
It was incredible because it was very very dirty and totally clogged. The only thing that didn't work well were the air valve: the air flow was constant both when pulling the trigger and not pressing it. I realized that at some point in use by its previous owner, the paint had flowed down there. So I had to disasembly the air valve also, cleaning up, lubricate it and re-assembly it. I have to say it worked better but not perfect: I needed a new seal for the air valve. I tried the seal of one of the two other brushes and.... the old dirty, clogged and unusable Super 63 worked fine again!!
I also cleaned up the other two Super 63. The "medium used" one was dirty with paint dry too, but it was in better condition that the previous one. The "unused" one was in great condition and I only have had to cleaning the
grease/lubricant that it still had inside.
All of them work perfect (but a little hard for my hand, used to the softness of iwata).
Ups...I apologize for writing such a long text :laugh:!!
Kisses, Pepa :love:
 
Great to see you worked on them and brought them back to life. The feeling when it works and sprays that first water or paint is great. Don't worry about long posts, we are used to it and don't mind in the least. Go and get those other airbrushes you NEED them :)
 
No problem with long posts Pepa. It takes a while to describe three of them:). I'm glad you have them in working condition.

I buy most of mine off eBay. You usually don't know the condition until it shows up. I'd gotten a couple that were really bad and I have bought a couple sold as used that were not.

I have a couple Paasche H (single action) that still have dried paint on them. I soaked the painted parts in lacquer thinner. The paint is still there. The only thing I can figure is the previous owner sprayed epoxy pant and let it dry on them. I will eventually get it off.
 
2Diverse said:
No problem with long posts Pepa. It takes a while to describe three of them:). I'm glad you have them in working condition.

I buy most of mine off eBay. You usually don't know the condition until it shows up. I'd gotten a couple that were really bad and I have bought a couple sold as used that were not.

I have a couple Paasche H (single action) that still have dried paint on them. I soaked the painted parts in lacquer thinner. The paint is still there. The only thing I can figure is the previous owner sprayed epoxy pant and let it dry on them. I will eventually get it off.
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I used WD-40 to clean these two brushes with dry paint on them. I first try to clean with isopropil and, as it doesn't work, I tried with acetone. The same thing: I couldn't clean the dry paint. Then, I thought that if WD-40 can remove rust and loosen screws...maybe it could "dissolve" old dry paint :laugh:. So, I soaked in WD-40 for several hours, cleaning one first time an then, as it was not quite clean, I soaked again but this time I used ultrasonic. I can say that worked on my case but I don't know if would work for you. Of course, you also will need to use cleaning airbrush brushes.
I hope this helps you :thumbsup:
 
2Diverse said:
No problem with long posts Pepa. It takes a while to describe three of them:). I'm glad you have them in working condition.

I buy most of mine off eBay. You usually don't know the condition until it shows up. I'd gotten a couple that were really bad and I have bought a couple sold as used that were not.

I have a couple Paasche H (single action) that still have dried paint on them. I soaked the painted parts in lacquer thinner. The paint is still there. The only thing I can figure is the previous owner sprayed epoxy pant and let it dry on them. I will eventually get it off.
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Createx Restorer works for most paint types, except UV cure stuff... It may not completely remove everything, but it will certainly make it soft enough to remove by either scrubbing mildly with a brush, or running through an ultrasonic, etc. I usually soak at least 1 hours, sometimes three or four if I got a real stubborn one. No plastic, no rubber.
 
The two on the hangers are the ones I am referring to. They came in a lot I bought which included the nicer one in the center. There is paint on the handles also. I got most of it off (I should have a 3rd one here) but I haven't been able to get it all off.

I'll get some Createx Restorer and see what it does Dave. Can I put the handles in it too? Thank you for the advice sir:thumbsup:.



A couple of them needed air valves. I had bought a lot of old style parts but they do not fit. I have not tried newer parts yet. These are the parts I have.

 
i generally do not use Restorer on the handles, so can not say for sure. I would keep and eye on it if I did try it - checking every few minutes for potential softening. I have used lacquer thinner without issue, though.

i don't have many of the single actions, so have not fooled with parts compatibility - sorry.
 
I was afraid to use lacquer thinner on the handles. If you say you've used it I will try it. Dave.

I bought these figuring I could clean them up, add the parts they need and sell them for a slight profit. I shoulda known. Tried that before and ran into a road block. No different with these.
 
Hi, all... joined here because I've just acquired an Aerograph Super 63. It seems in good condition, and sprays thinner as it should -- not tried any actual paint yet. I'm thinking that making sure all the needle washers are PTFE is probably a good idea. Thanks to the Jord001's first post in this thread, I can see how to do a full strip down. Ami I right in thinking that this is the only way to access all the washers, or is there a partial dismantle that will let me change those more easily (I don't really want to take the air valve apart if I don't have to!)? Secondly, that trigger mechanism scares me.... any top tips on how it all works or pictures so I can see in more detail how it comes out and goes back in again? I have no problem taking apart and reassembling my H&S and Iwata brushes, but the engineering on the Super 63 seems more complicated even if beautifully precise.

Any help or guidance would be much appreciated...

All the best,
Matt
 
cmatthewbacon said:
Hi, all... joined here because I've just acquired an Aerograph Super 63. It seems in good condition, and sprays thinner as it should -- not tried any actual paint yet. I'm thinking that making sure all the needle washers are PTFE is probably a good idea. Thanks to the Jord001's first post in this thread, I can see how to do a full strip down. Ami I right in thinking that this is the only way to access all the washers, or is there a partial dismantle that will let me change those more easily (I don't really want to take the air valve apart if I don't have to!)? Secondly, that trigger mechanism scares me.... any top tips on how it all works or pictures so I can see in more detail how it comes out and goes back in again? I have no problem taking apart and reassembling my H&S and Iwata brushes, but the engineering on the Super 63 seems more complicated even if beautifully precise.

Any help or guidance would be much appreciated...

All the best,
Matt
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I think items 10-16 in the manual at the start of the thread covers the trigger removal. It is finicky, for sure o_O. It comes apart pretty easy. To put it all back together you will need to grow a third hand. I tired, but did not have much luck, so instead I used a pencil with the eraser carved up to hold the little bits in place while getting a screw started between the stirrup and cam ring. Just be patient with it, and I am sure you will get it. Once done, it is much easier to repeat.
 
I must admit Ihave stripped one non working Aerograph and its still in bits because I cant get it back together lol. Luckily its not working anyway so nothing lost for the moment. Its in its case waiting for the day I get the chance to fix the problem and then reassemble it.
 
Hi, all... just wanted to say thanks. With the help I found here, and a fellow plastic modeller on another site with an equal enthusiasm for the classic Super 63, I now have a completely working airbrush, with nice smooth PTFE washers from Everything Airbrush in the UK (who also have many other Aerograph spares). And I'm very impressed. It can lay down everything from sub-mm lines to a 20mm swath, and using the brush at 20psi or so, I can put the cap right down on the paper and still get a really fine splatter free line... Great piece of kit, especially for 40-odd quid and a pack of washers.

best,
Matt
 
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