Did I break my airbrush

A

Aneirin

Guest
Hello there.

I recently bought a New replacement Iwata Eclipse (HP-CS).

I wanted to treat this one a bit better than the last one so I also bought some airbush brushes (ABEST 3 set airbrush)

For some odd reason, every time I use the airbush, it gets clogged, immediately.

I have used air brush cleaner, I have taken the needle out about ten or 20 times and wiped it down, I have taken out the nozzle, soaked it a few times, used the ABEST needle to take out any gunk and used a magnifying glass to check it for cleanness.

Disassembled the airush.

I am worried that using the brushes on it may have damaged it. It takes about two days of intermittent cleaning to be able to use it, and then, as soon as I have used one colour, it clogs up again and I have to go through the process (put paint in, clean it out, put air brush cleaner into it, however the airrush cleaner won't even spray out, do a deeper clean, but still nothing)

Or maybe my paints are too old. I bought them a while ago and (Vallejo game air). The black seems to be getting thicker and as such I don't use that in the airbush.

Essentially, has anyone had troubles with using airush cleaning kits, or might it be older paints? Or something else entirely?
 
OK first question, are you filtering your paint? How does straight water flow through the brush?
 
1st, stop using the brushes - they will eventually damage the airbrush, and are not needed for proper cleaning. What you are describing sounds much more like a paint problem versus a brush problem. One of the hardest and most frustrating parts of learning is getting paint reduction down. I believe Vallejo makes a proprietary flow enhancer, which I hear works quite well.
 
As mentioned above, does your airbrush flow water?
If so, then it’s likely to be a problem with the paint. I don’t know much about Vallejo, but I know it’s pretty thick. What reducer are you using with it? Are you sure it’s clogged rather than just tip drying?
 
I will never use a brush of any type through a nozzle. Some nozzles can take it other will split at the end.
I soak my nozzles in 5619 Restorer made by Createx. http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer&cat=690
if the paint seems thicker then it is drying out meaning the bottle is not sealing , Straining the paint will help ,But I suggest reducing the paint in a small mixing cup then straining it as you put it in the airbrush.
 
i agree with all the above.
- ditch the brushes, the metal core can damage the nozzle, if you feel you need a brush then get the interdental brushes, found in the supermarket next to the dental floss, available in many sizes.
- soak the nozzle in restorer, use a long bristled artist brush to dislodge anything that is a little stubborn, being careful not to let the metal come in contact with the brush.
- it could just be tip dry, the curse of most waterbased paint. It will block the flow if you dont clean it off. get into the habit of cleaning of the tip of the needle (carefully) regularly - more often when you are just beginning, it could be as often as every few minutes.
If i remember correctly @DaveG has a video on his facebook page showing how to clean the tip with a cotton bud (Q-Tip), by soaking the q tip in cleaner/restorer and having the needle and q-tip shaft offset from each other and turning the qtip to clean the needle. Its something i plan on trying next time i load up the brush.
 
Thanks Dave.
Up until now i've been using latex make up pads and just rotating it on the needle, but the cotton bud may be that little bit more abrasive which will be quicker.
 
Thanks Dave.
Up until now i've been using latex make up pads and just rotating it on the needle, but the cotton bud may be that little bit more abrasive which will be quicker.

There are many times that I find that I have been holding the q-tip in my left hand, and cleaning the needle every few minutes without even thinking about it - so I could not tell you how many times, or how often I might have done it while working. It just becomes second nature. There is almost always one around my desk, or on my side table - sometimes more than one.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback.

In regards to paint thinning, I am using vallejo airbrush thinner (typically 1 drop for every three drops of air rush paint)

Currently, water is not flowing through the airbrush at all, even if the needle isn't in there (as such I am pretty sure it is not tip dry, oddly enough I can see through the nozzle as well, though I might just need to get a stronger cleaner for the nozzle, was using the Iwata cleaning kit and the stuff that came in that, but that ran out after trying to clean the brush a few times and I tried window cleaner (blue stuff) for just the nozzle (not the whole brush), though it may be a poor brand
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback.

In regards to paint thinning, I am using vallejo airbrush thinner (typically 1 drop for every three drops of air rush paint)

Currently, water is not flowing through the airbrush at all, even if the needle isn't in there (as such I am pretty sure it is not tip dry, oddly enough I can see through the nozzle as well, though I might just need to get a stronger cleaner for the nozzle, was using the Iwata cleaning kit and the stuff that came in that, but that ran out after trying to clean the brush a few times and I tried window cleaner (blue stuff) for just the nozzle (not the whole brush), though it may be a poor brand
not getting paint flow without the needle in the brush is not an indicator of anything - a good part of the paint flow within the brush is taken care of by capillary action, which can not happen when there is no needle in the paint channel. Sometimes it will work, sometimes not - but will not indicate any sort of "issue". Airbrushes are actually pretty simple, and if paint flow is an issue, more times than not it is the paint. The thinner for Vallejo is not the same as the flow enhancer/imrpover. That being said, you may also need to up your reduction ratio - adding more thinner to the paint - especially if the paint is already thickening with age. May even be necessary to strain the paint once thinned.
 
This is a difficult one to crack.
If you can not even spray water.
It is not a reduction problem. Jou get bubbles in your cub.(back flush )
Then there is no blockage in the paint supply.
The air comes out the front part of the airbrush.
The air channels are open.
If this is good. you have to be able to spray water.
If that is not the case. maybe your nozzel is damaged.
You can also check if your nozzle is just outside your air cab .(see photo)
Too far inside is bubbles in your paint cub.
No good nozzle seal is bubbles.
If you have a crack or severe damage to the front of your nozzle or your air cab.
Is maybe the solution is that you do not get water or paint.
download (1).jpg
 
Might be something as easy as your needle chucks not being tight and when the paint drys it wont let the needle pull back (acts like a vice on the needle)
 
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