Did it but won't do it again...

Dimitris

Mac-Valve Maestro!
Ok, you can make fun of me, that's all right...:D:D

I made a desicion to clearcoat the artwork for PP (on its way) with the kustom eclipse.:D
I cleaned it with nitro thinner (multiple times) but after 3-4 days when I used it again it was bubbling back.
I disassembled it, cleaned it again, soaked it in restorer but nothing happened,
I switched the whole head with the CS and it was working perfectly. I assume that a thin layer of clearcoat has dried in the tip.

Is it ok to even try and soak it in paint corrosive and remove whatever is in there (if this is the problem)?
Or am I going for a new one?

Bottom fact I ain't doing that again! :D:D:D
 
I don’t think you’ll damage the metal depending on the corrosive used. There’s got to be something that will eat the dried clear and not damage the metal. I know old school brake fluid will eat automotive paint. But I don’t know what it’ll do to the chrome.
But yeah, it depends what Clear you used.


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It is the Eclipse with a larger cup, taller trigger and pre-set handle. No longer in production. More confusing is the Kustom Custom Micron.

Why are they confusing @AndreZA ? I remember Mendez had only Kustom airbrushes with him at the seminar we did...
 
Restorer will not even make a dent in 2k clear . if the 2k haa dried in the nozzle it is pretty much time to buy a new nozzle due to that stuff is pretty much bullet proof once harden.
 
A friend of mine owns a shop with automotive paints and has a few 'old' airbrushes...He had it on sale quite cheap and decided to go for it. I only paid 170 Euros, so called it cheap buy.. brand new and can find any replacement part I'll need.

He's got the cm-c for 275 euros. It's on discount for members at the 'greek airbrush artists', a group in fb but I can get it for anyone who cares I guess and send it to him.
Think it's still unsold...

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Thanks @Mr.Micron , was expecting that but needed to hear it to believe it...
Hated to deliver that bit of bad news , For 2k I have one spray gun I use for only that and as soon as I am finished using it ,It gets a good cleaning before I put it away. But trust me your not the first to do that even with an airbrush. one guy thought as long as it was in the spray gun it would not harden now it sits in his shop as a nice reminder LMAO.
At least the parts for your airbrush are affordable to replace.
 
Hated to deliver that bit of bad news , For 2k I have one spray gun I use for only that and as soon as I am finished using it ,It gets a good cleaning before I put it away. But trust me your not the first to do that even with an airbrush. one guy thought as long as it was in the spray gun it would not harden now it sits in his shop as a nice reminder LMAO.
At least the parts for your airbrush are affordable to replace.


The whole idea started cause I was bored to get the spray gun, connect the big compressor just to spray a 12.5x17.5 panel... But lesson learned! :D:Dlol
 
Ever tried putting the nozzle in the oven on its highest temperature for about half an hour then bringing it out and dumping it iced water? It worked for me. Afterwards I used my ultrasonic cleaner which broke up the remains of the 2k and then I was able to ease the particles out. It took some time but worked. It was on a .5mm H&S nozzle. It's just a thought.
 
Dimitris, for this kind of issues you can always successfully use paint remover. Buy it at the shop at paint department. It costs real cheap and works just great. ANY dried paint that I had in used airbrushes I bought was easily removed with this stuff. Just soak the parts with it and in some minutes you can see paint "melting":)
I used remover and thinner combo with bamboo sticks and AB cleaning brushes. Few washes and you have absolutely clean parts. Highly recommend this to anyone! One thing working with the paint remover is safety. Always wear gloves, it's nasty stuff! And if working indoors - wear charcoal cartridge respirator. When working outdoors I didn't wear the respirator, everything was OK.
 
Dimitris, for this kind of issues you can always successfully use paint remover. Buy it at the shop at paint department. It costs real cheap and works just great. ANY dried paint that I had in used airbrushes I bought was easily removed with this stuff. Just soak the parts with it and in some minutes you can see paint "melting":)
I used remover and thinner combo with bamboo sticks and AB cleaning brushes. Few washes and you have absolutely clean parts. Highly recommend this to anyone! One thing working with the paint remover is safety. Always wear gloves, it's nasty stuff! And if working indoors - wear charcoal cartridge respirator. When working outdoors I didn't wear the respirator, everything was OK.

Thanks @Vladimir , I'm in the process of doing that as my last chance to save it... I hope it will work for 2K clearcoat which I last applied... fingers crossed!
 
Thanks @Vladimir , I'm in the process of doing that as my last chance to save it... I hope it will work for 2K clearcoat which I last applied... fingers crossed!

If it's only 2K clear, that you think is the problem, then you can be sure the issue is solved. I hope you have some dried clean in there. In other case - I don't know...

BTW, a toothpick works great for 0.5 Eclipse setup, for 0.35 you need to sand toothpick's tip to have sharper taper to go through the 0.35 nozzle. That is what I use for cleaning the nozzles.
 
the blockage is located at the tip (like HP and micron tip)...I'll try with a toothpic now that you mentioned.
 
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