DIY AB Air Cooled Compressor

wow....i am impressed. good job with this unit.
i wish i could have the space to build something like this!
 
wow....i am impressed. good job with this unit.
i wish i could have the space to build something like this!

Thanx:)
Tommy, actually I don't have much space at the yard but pretty enough to make something for myself:) So if it's not heat, rain or frost outdoors I do something for myself. My vision is that ABing requires many pieces of good equipment for getting good results that are achieved in good atmosphere. So I'm making that atmosphere for me;) I've got plans and some more equipment is being made.
 
Amazing work,Im not allowed welding equipment..im a fire hazard and really dont have the patience to build stuff.

You know I'm allowed that, but I'm not understood why I buy all those tools etc:D But I know that creating makes me happy:)
I also was not patient but that was in childhood when I built first models, I couln't wait for the glue to hardenlol Now I'm patient, to prove that I can tell ya I'm airbrushing;) It requires patience:)
 
Some updates for the thread:)
After some time of use I have found mistakes made, when planning the compressor scheme. For not to describe many things, I'd say it briefly. Fridge compressor MUST be in the upper point of the compressor system, as there's oil and condensed water in the pipes and it flows down.
In my compressor this water was going back to the compressor and it's wrong. So I've solved the issue by installing some parts into the system, which are seen on the photo. The drain valves are installed so trapped water and oil could be taken out.
So I think everything is goona be OK with this issue.

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There was also an issue with the air receiver. It's rusted through where legs were welded.
So if I'd know it would happen, I'd never bought and moreover had spent time on this type of the tank. It has thin body, so air leak problems is just a matter of time.
The problem was solved by welding, but new air leak will appear in future, I think.
Next time I will never buy the receiver for home pump, at least it will be stainless steel.


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And I'd recommend to use liquid thread sealer instead the teflon tape. You will not have air leaks from the start. BTW factory made compressor go with liquid sealing, so I think it speaks for itself.

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You definitely want the oil to drain back into the compressor, but not the water. One way to accomplish this is to have the exit hose travel up several inches then back down, at which point you can connect it to a moisture trap, tank or whatever. After that, it can travel in whatever direction you want. On most commercial units, you will notice this kind of arrangement where the exit hose goes up for several inches then back down.

I couldn't tell from the pictures, but do you have a a drain cock on the tank? If so, you can periodically drain all the water that condenses which should keep it from rusting out, just try and put the drain cock at the lowest point of the tank after mounting, since you can't rotate or tip the tank within the frame.
 
So here's comes the answer:)
All this was found in those new traps installed. So they work as I expected.

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Honestly, I do not want to have it back to the pistons of the compressor:)

Yes, the drain valve is there in the lowest point, I couldn't make air tank without it. But that not helped me with rusting through the tank in the places of welding the tank legs:) Now I work on replacing that one rusted. All this procedures are brain exploding and time consuming, but good thing about it is seeing my problems, you can learn:)
 
A year passed after air tank rusted through. The welder has welded a hole then, but right after installation new hole appeared. So I’ve decided that’s enough for welding, it needs replacement. Decision was towards the air tank made of stainless steel.
New tank has another mounting parameters, so I had to drill new holes and to make some other adjustments.
I’ve put some epoxy on all the weldings to eleminate possible corrosion. Though the tank is stainless steel, I don’t know how welded steel would behave, so to prevent any issues I’ve desided to put an epoxy there.
I expect longer life from this air tank, as first one worked not that long I’d say:)
The fittings were welded just the same as old tank had. I need only to reassemble everything, clean the threads and assemble again on a new base.
I’ve installed new pressure switch. Old one was PM-5 and new one is PM-12. This change give a possibility to make new on/off mode. Now the compessor starts at 5 Bar and stops at 8 Bar. It’s just that I need.
Now it works again and I’ve got time to airbrush:)


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Awesome job, just wondering how quiet are all the fans when they run?


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The most loud thing in the compressor is "back" valve. I don't know proper English translation for it. That valve which allows the air to go inside the air tank and not to go back. I've got two of them in the system. They cover all "noise" produced by the all three fans and two fridge compressors. When music plays in my studio compressor is that something I don't hear.
I've got cheap fans installed, and even their noise isn't noise. While there are expensive fans that are very quiet and consume less electricity, but what I have suit me perfectly.
 
Great thank you for responding and those valves, I believe, are check valves. Again, great job on building that compressor!!!


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Googled for "compressor check valve" and it looks like that thing we are talking about. So we understand each other:)
 
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