D
DETART
Guest
After having my Badger 100G fall from the table to the floor, I was lucky this time as it was not damaged (the 100G is a tough AB). But I decided it was time to put the airbrush back into it's storage case and spend some time in the wood shop.
We had an Apple tree that was damage in a server storm about 3 years ago, so I knew the wood was seasoned. So I started milling it down on the band saw and table saw.
The pieces I used are:
( these are the actual finished sizes, not mill or rough cut sizes)
All Pieces where sanded with 100 then 150 sand paper when completed and before being attached to another piece.
The Rack:
I started with making the rack to hold the AB: I marked it out so that the holes would be spaced 1 inch on center (not you may want to use 1 ¼ or more if you have larger paint cups ) then drilled I believed it was ½” hole from edge to edge through the width of the board for the AB body.
Next I drilled the holes for the air valve 5/16” and drill ½” form the edge that was to be the back side centered with the hole for the body.
The next hole was drilled with a 5/8” Forster bit for the color cup cut out at the front , this was drilled ½” from the front edge at about 30 degree angle centered again on the hole for the AB body.
Note It is best to use a drill gauge and find what size you need for your AB body and air valve.
Next I beveled the top front edge and rear bottom edge corners just for looks it has no other purpose it would still hold an AB with or without the bevel.
There are many ways to do this next part, depending on what tools you have access to: That is cutting down the back 1 ½” of the rack to just a little less then half of the width of the holes you drilled for the Ab body. I used a router table and a 3/4” straight bit and milled it down....you can also cut it down on a table saw or radial arm saw or make two cut with an hand saw. It is just what ever you have to get it done with.
In the end you want the back part of the rack cut down so that the color cup and trigger have clearance when you put the Ab in the holder.
The Stand:
This I cut so that I would have 1 ½” on the bottom of the rack and 2” on the top of the base with the two pieces over lapping about 3/4”. I aligned the two pieces and drilled a hole for the #10 brass screw in the center of the area where the aligned.
The 1 ½” piece was then attached to the center of the rack with wood glue and 2 #5x 1” wood screws counter sunk into the rack
The Base:
The base is really two pieces glued and doweled together as the widest piece I had was only about 2 ½” x 2 ½” so I just sawed it in half and joined them together.
After the glue had time to dry I drill a 5/16” hole in the center of each side
for the “L” bolt clamp.
Router the edge with a cove bit and and attached the 2” stand to the base the same way the other half was attached to the rack.
The Clamp:
The two clamp pieces where just kinda freehand as to the size and shape it was what looked good to me.
The “Nut” ½”x2”x1” diamond with center drilled out with 5/16” bit and the 1/4”-20 T-Nut counter sunk in the bottom.
The clamp jaw is 3/4”x3/4”x 2” Drilled with 5/16 for free movement up and down the clamp bolt
Sorry I did not think of taking “Progress photos” as I made it.
There are more photos of the stand/holder in "My Gallery"
I will be happy to try and answer any questions or help you in any way I can.
Hope this has help some and remember to “share the love!”
Doug
We had an Apple tree that was damage in a server storm about 3 years ago, so I knew the wood was seasoned. So I started milling it down on the band saw and table saw.
The pieces I used are:
( these are the actual finished sizes, not mill or rough cut sizes)
- 1”x 2” x5 ½ inches long for the rack
- ½” x 1 ½” x 3 ½ inches long for the stand
- 5/8” x 4 x 7 ½ inches for the base
- ½”x2”x1 inches for the clamp nut (optional you can use any ¼ nut)
- 3/4”x3/4”x 2 inches for the clamp jaw (again optional you may be lucky and find a complete clamp)
- I also found a “L” shaped ¼ “ bolt from an old desk lamp I believe to use for the clamp
- and a #10 Brass screw and kerned nut and wash to join the two stand pieces tougher adjust the rack angle
- 4 #5x1” wood screws and 1/4”x20 T-nut
All Pieces where sanded with 100 then 150 sand paper when completed and before being attached to another piece.
The Rack:
I started with making the rack to hold the AB: I marked it out so that the holes would be spaced 1 inch on center (not you may want to use 1 ¼ or more if you have larger paint cups ) then drilled I believed it was ½” hole from edge to edge through the width of the board for the AB body.
Next I drilled the holes for the air valve 5/16” and drill ½” form the edge that was to be the back side centered with the hole for the body.
The next hole was drilled with a 5/8” Forster bit for the color cup cut out at the front , this was drilled ½” from the front edge at about 30 degree angle centered again on the hole for the AB body.
Note It is best to use a drill gauge and find what size you need for your AB body and air valve.
Next I beveled the top front edge and rear bottom edge corners just for looks it has no other purpose it would still hold an AB with or without the bevel.
There are many ways to do this next part, depending on what tools you have access to: That is cutting down the back 1 ½” of the rack to just a little less then half of the width of the holes you drilled for the Ab body. I used a router table and a 3/4” straight bit and milled it down....you can also cut it down on a table saw or radial arm saw or make two cut with an hand saw. It is just what ever you have to get it done with.
In the end you want the back part of the rack cut down so that the color cup and trigger have clearance when you put the Ab in the holder.
The Stand:
This I cut so that I would have 1 ½” on the bottom of the rack and 2” on the top of the base with the two pieces over lapping about 3/4”. I aligned the two pieces and drilled a hole for the #10 brass screw in the center of the area where the aligned.
The 1 ½” piece was then attached to the center of the rack with wood glue and 2 #5x 1” wood screws counter sunk into the rack
The Base:
The base is really two pieces glued and doweled together as the widest piece I had was only about 2 ½” x 2 ½” so I just sawed it in half and joined them together.
After the glue had time to dry I drill a 5/16” hole in the center of each side
for the “L” bolt clamp.
Router the edge with a cove bit and and attached the 2” stand to the base the same way the other half was attached to the rack.
The Clamp:
The two clamp pieces where just kinda freehand as to the size and shape it was what looked good to me.
The “Nut” ½”x2”x1” diamond with center drilled out with 5/16” bit and the 1/4”-20 T-Nut counter sunk in the bottom.
The clamp jaw is 3/4”x3/4”x 2” Drilled with 5/16 for free movement up and down the clamp bolt
Sorry I did not think of taking “Progress photos” as I made it.
There are more photos of the stand/holder in "My Gallery"
I will be happy to try and answer any questions or help you in any way I can.
Hope this has help some and remember to “share the love!”
Doug
