do you lube your airbrush ?

[mickd]

HI ALL
can i ask do you lube your airbrush? I've got a badger krome and i doesn't say any thing about lube etc,I've had a good look on youtube and some say don't use it some say its the best thing ever, if you do use it do you put it on every part? i ask this cos some are saying don't put it on the tip of the needle and other just load it up

i didn't get any with the gun so i was thinking the gun was made to run dry all the time, I've found some super lube at the local craft shop should i buy it and use it?? any tips tricks etc would help in a big way

still a very newbie at this

mick

 

[RebelAir]

Some may differ but I only use lube when its required..Hahaha..Get brain out of gutter...

Nah seriously, only time I lube a needle is when I know the guns going to sit unused for an extended period of time, oh and use it regulary on the trigger area to ensure those seals in the air valve have a little on it, especially if its sticking..You can just use good ol pnuematic oil (Get a light one) I use sowing machine oil as its pretty light and I just steal my wifes when I need more When cleaning my gun and plan to paint straight after I don't bother with lube, I just wipe the needle on my tongue (yes I know un hygenic and to some yucky LOL) and then place the needle in and start painting as I don't want any oil coming through onto the workpiece and if I do pick up a gun thats been sitting for a while all lubed up, I always run some thinners through quickly to remove it..GL

 

[MeeshellMP]

I use it on the needle of my Krome, so paint doesnt dry and stick to it.

 

[wmlepage]

If I tear down i lube everything . Usually about once a month or so.


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[Immortal Concepts]

everyone is different. I use 3 in 1 oil on mine. after i tear it down and clean it when a job is done, I lube the needle (from middle to halfway back) be sure you don't go past where the taper to the point is, this part comes in contact with the paint and if any lube or oil is on it, will contaminate the paint. I also add a couple drops to the plunger before dropping my trigger in. Also I lube the shaft the spring rides on (thats what she said yeah yeah). I like my airbrushes to spray like cadillacs and have no resistance whatsoever.

 

[Don Wheeler]

Once in a while, I wipe a tiny bit of needle lube on the needle. Mostly because I've got it and it doesn't hurt. For metal to metal lube, I use either a light oil or Chapstick. A little lube does seem to make the brush action a little smoother. Chapstick on threads makes them turn easy and prevents seizing. I never use needle lube in the back end of the airbrush. It can get sticky.

Don

 

[CALz AyrWKz]

I always put some on my needle and wipe it completely off after each cleaning. It helps keep the tip dry down.

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[MegaTitaniumMan]

I used to lube my airbrushes regularly with Glycerin, I put some in my paint as well after reading several articles saying it helps with flow. My issue was "if some is good then more is better" and I ruined about 20 bottles of paint. So don't do that!
I found it seeped past the teflon seal and down the needle and would affect my flow. Its true that glycerin can make airbrush paint flow better and not stick to the needle so much, from my experience the amount to be used is such a small amount that its not worth bothering with. I also stopped using chapstic/beeswax on the threads as well as it makes a mess of hours of work when it breaks free under pressure or melts from heat. (I sometimes use a heatgun). I took a pro's advice and used a piece of plastic bag over the threads and then assembled the AB. I usually just use Teflon tape on the threads though, but only the smallest amount and no more than one full wrap.

The best thing I found is to use 1000 grit wet/dry Emery cloth/sandpaper, wet, and turn the needle slowly in a drill while cradling the needle in a loop of the Emery cloth. Then repeat the process with 2000 grit.Wet. Only the tip to about an inch/25mm from the tip is all that is needed.
This was after seating the needle in the nozzle with metal polish. The process in automotive applications is called "valve lapping" if you want to google it. Its known as seating the needle/nozzle and polishing the needle in airbrush applications. Make sure to use a metal polish like Autosol or something similar with a bit of grit, otherwise its going to damage the metal.
I don't have the bookmarks any more but if my description isn't good enough just google the terms and read up a bit, its not hard to figure out. This must be done in the assembled airbrush with the handle removed to keep everything aligned, then disassemble and clean before use.
Makes a World of difference to the flow and spray pattern and its a noticeable pleasurable difference when pulling fine lines.
I know some of you already do this and I hope others try it, its worth the effort as it improves the quality of your airbrush many times over. If unsure try it on an old needle/nozzle first and then lay down some paint with it, you'll see.
In this process of Seating the needle/nozzle they become a matched set and will work perfectly together, if the needle or nozzle is swapped out it needs to be matched by repeating the process.
And as always have fun!
Mega.

 

[Oddball]

What ever you do, do NOT use WD40 ...... anything with silicon in it will destroy the look of the finish job as clear coat runs away from silicon and results in Fish eyes!
If you get silicon comtamination in your work area it can cause you mega problems.

 

[MegaTitaniumMan]

What ever you do, do NOT use WD40 ...... anything with silicon in it will destroy the look of the finish job as clear coat runs away from silicon and results in Fish eyes!
If you get silicon contamination in your work area it can cause you mega problems.

What? Did somebody call me??
How'd you know my middle name?
Mega.

 

[Squishy]

I give the inside of my paintcup a super light layer of lube as the chrome has come off, and it makes it so much easier to clean. I lube up the trigger now and then to keep it running smooth, but that's about it. I've seen a couple of vids where people have absolutely drowned everything in lube, but maybe those brushes have not been used for a while, or won't be used for a while? Anyway I'm too tight with money to use much, those little bottles work out expensive.

 

[Oddball]

The chrome has come of the bowl on my iawata 0.35, I was thinking maybe I should get the dremmel out and polish it but it's one of those "I'll do it later" jobs :/

 

[Immortal Concepts]

I don't know why you would lube the inside of the cup or anything that the paint touches. Its a really bad habit, you are asking for paint contamination. Maybe it works for illustration purposes but if you ever wanted to clear something it would go crazy. Chrome coming off the bowl is normal, especially when using solvents . Not a big deal every one of my airbrushes are like that and its not a big deal. They put very little chrome on the internals.

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[matty171]

As peeps have already said i lube mine when i break it down to give it a good clean usually once a week, that might be a bit much i dont know. I use cookin oil when lubing, it works fine and ive had no complecations with it plus ive liters of the stuff.



Ride the storm

 

[Squishy]

I don't know why you would lube the inside of the cup or anything that the paint touches. Its a really bad habit, you are asking for paint contamination. Maybe it works for illustration purposes but if you ever wanted to clear something it would go crazy. Chrome coming off the bowl is normal, especially when using solvents . Not a big deal every one of my airbrushes are like that and its not a big deal. They put very little chrome on the internals.

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I do this all the time, use a super light coat of airbrush lube, and have had no issues with paint - I use Wicked, or with clear coating - I use 2k. Not saying anyone else should do it, just saying what I do

 

[HCP-draggin]

I'll lube the needle once in a while, or if I know that brush will be sitting for a bit. The Iwata-Media Super-Lube works well, but I've also used E'Tac Condition-air, or just straight glycerin. I just put a bit on the needle, then install the needle. It seems to get enough lube to the bearing to do the job. Before loading up paint, I run some cleaner through the brush to get any excess lube off of the "wet" portion of the needle. (or reducer/ laq thinner if you're using uro's)

I've tried lubing the trigger area, but found it usually doesn't make much of a difference, or at least not a lasting one. If I notice an airbrushes action is getting a bit gritty, I just sand down and polish the trigger components. It lasts longer, and doesn't risk gumming up or getting oils into your air flow.

As far as de-chromed cups, it won't effect the working of the airbrush at all. Most of mine are down to the brass. I don't see any point in trying to polish them because 1) it would be a pain, and 2) the brass is soft enough that you'd be right back where you started in no time, anyway. Plus, polishing would just remove more material. The brush would probably be a bit easier to clean with a polished cup, but mine clean up just fine as they are. I'd rather spend the time polishing the needle or nozzle, where it will make a difference in how the airbrush performs, than spend the time polishing the paint cup.

Last, it depends on what paints you use, but as a general rule, NOTHING oil-based or silicon-based gets used anywhere even near my airbrushes. Did it once, sprayed fish-eyes for a month before I got it all cleaned out (which took more tear-downs than I can remember). Again, I'd rather simply polish the parts to get rid of as much friction as possible than risk dealing with that headache again.

Basically, I spent a LOT of money on filters and such to make VERY sure that the air that gets to my gun or brushes is very clean and very dry. Why would I risk contamination of the air at the very end?

Oh, and one last thing- Often, I'll put a little E'Tac Condition-air into the color cup of an airbrush if it's going to sit, or even if I just don't have time for a really good clean-up at the end of the day. It will condition the needle bearing (especially if you have rubber ones), keeps any little paint gremlins from drying up inside the nozzle or anywhere like that, AND acts to loosen any dried paint that may already be there. Just a little trick I've found handy...