done an upgrade on the silent air compressor i made



I added another motor i done this upgrade because it was taking too long to fill up with the second motor installed on it it now takes about 5 minutes to get to 90 psi then clicks off then ituses the air to 50psi then clicks back on no problem at all and it only takes about 1 minute to reach 90psi again all in all it is awsome and most of all silent20130211_221946.jpg20130211_221919.jpg
Excellent work, it would be nice to know all the specs for this, I already have 6 litre tank, and it would be nice to know what other parts I need to build one and how it all goes together, more importantly the power of the fridge motor required to fill my own tank, I'm usually pretty handy around the house and I do like to build a lot of my own stuff when I can, but obviously I would like to do this safely.

So if you have the time a step by step with descriptions and options would a real treat.

Thanks in advance.
You wont need a very beefy compressor for a 6L tank, a basic fridge comp (5cc displacement) running from 50-100psi should take less than 3 minutes.
I cant get my head around Hydriven`s compressor figures, he did a great job on the compressor though :)
Charging a 24L tank from 50-90psi takes 60 seconds, so the avg flow is 2.3cfm. but charging from 0-90psi (empty to cutout) takes 5 minutes which is only 1.05cfm.
At 2.3cfm, 0-90psi should only be taking 2 mins and 15 seconds.
it takes a while for the presure to build but it seems that once the presure is there it dosnt take as long for it to build
I find the flowrate of these kind of compressors doesnt vary much across the pressure range, maybe 1lpm less output per bar. I guess a compressor rated for low back pressure (LBP) may slow down a little as the pressure builds.
If you know the make and model of your compressor, its worth checking out the makers website for the spec sheet. It`s invaluable when it comes to putting oil in the compressor. If you take the displacement figure (usually in cc) and multiply by 2900, that gives you the theoretical maximum output in cc/minute. Derate that number by 25% and you`ll be pretty close to the realworld performance.