Erasing paint as a technique

[Mark Milburn]

Good day to all. I am a pretty new member and a relative noobe to AB'ing. I am having problems with erasing techniques. Ie., I am using white coated gesobord and createx transparent illustration paints. All colors are newly purchased and I use a sharp cutter blade to scratch/remove.

After applying paint, it is not easily scratching off??? Rather than a nice clean "scratch" like you typically see when experienced painters scratch lines for fine hair, my paint doesn't come off cleanly and in a fine line. I am not waiting a long time before trying, maybe 5 minutes, etc. I have tried different angles, etc etc,

Wondering if I am painting too thick before trying??

Mark

 

[musicmacd]

I think your substrate is no good for erasing on, Gesso absorbs paint which is not what you want.
I would invest in a pad of Yupo paper. It’s works fine with Createx illustration paints.
And yes, it’s a smooth action that removes the paint, not a “scratch” as such!

 

[Mark Milburn]

Excellent! I will research that media! THANK YOU!

mark

 

[Mark Milburn]

Here I am again!! Just looked on Amazon for Yupo, there is translucent and 20 other types! Could you send me a link to the kind you use! I typically like 11x 14 up to 16 x 20.
Mark
Murrieta, ca.

Would this be right???
https://www.joann.com/yupo-paper-10...clid=ADL-5f4b6ce3-faf9-449d-8853-80fc008d8296

 

[JackEb]

I suspect there may be a few things that aren’t helping your outcome,
- asMacD suggested, you substrate may be a little to porous for use with a blade but more suited to art erasers and fibreglass erasers.
- your blade may be wrong, you mention a ‘cutter blade’ when what you need is a #11 hobby blade or scalpel equivalent

- are you using the wrong reducer? I found 4030 a pain to erase

your technique might need some finesse- - think ‘stroke’ rather than ‘scratch.’ if you go to heavy handed on claybord/gesso then you risk digging into the surface rather than removing just a thin layer of paint
- home gesso’ed boards can be more porous as each individual will mix a slightly different ratio and gesso was developed for oil/pastel work, a thicker medium that has no chance of being totally absorbed into the gesso.

To give you an idea of how the different surfaces affect the outcome, the pic below is of ‘Diaz’ , a reference that a few of us have played with.
Both images were Createx Illustration & 4012 reducer.
the left is on printer paper, paint absorbed quickly and no eraser/blade possible.
the right was a synthetic paper (not ‘yupo’ ) erasers and blade work were easily achieved.


Hobby blades have a preferred direction of erasing (left /right edge of blade )which can change several times on a single project, if you are on a hard surface the blade will dull quickly so make sure you stock up when you find them cheap.

apologies for the long post Mark, but my brain started thinking so I ran with it

Terra Slate is another highly recommend synthetic paper and as you are in the US you actually have access to it. From memory they also send out samples so you can play with different weights.
I’ll do a quick hunt for the company links, .. .. be right back


Here you go
https://terraslatepaper.com/collections/waterproof-paper-samples

I tried a couple of different ‘yupo’ grades, not a huge fan.
MacD uses Dru Blair synthetic paper... ... not cheap but it is great paper, and again, readily available from Dru’s school of realism website

 

[Mark Milburn]

I found a company in Texas re the Terra Slate They have weights from 7 mil to 14. Would I want the thickest?

 

[JackEb]

I found a company in Texas re the Terra Slate They have weights from 7 mil to 14. Would I want the thickest?

If they give the option a a variety sample pack like the main website then that’s what I’d suggest. mid it’s close enough to visit (assuming they have a store front) then wander in, look as confused as possible and scratch your head to add to the effect and say someone suggested you ‘try this stuff for airbrushing’ they may raid their scrap bin for you free of charge (and often their ‘scraps’ would cover a wall )
The only advantage to thicker paper is that it is self supporting .. .. you don’t need to frame the end product, just a bit of chewing gum slapped on the back and slam it against the wall

 

[JackEb]

Glossy photo paper or poster board (glossy side) are also both good for practising on

 

[Mark Milburn]

Again, thank you so much ms. jacke! Hope you are still safe in the down under!

mark

 

[JackEb]

group effort I think. Others will be along soon no doubt. I’ve just finish work for the day and chilling with a coffeeeeeeeee
Worst of the fires are out, still a little bit of smoke around.

 

[crazyvet]

I personal use yupo and poster board ( shiny side ) I use the poster board for the more practice type work.

here is a link to the yupo I use use
https://www.amazon.com/Yupo-Paper-L...ef=sr_1_5?keywords=yupo&qid=1581323365&sr=8-5

 

[rdawk]

just to be different...I use illustration board that I have sprayed a couple coats of Gesso,regular spray gun (Liquitex pro) after it dries I wet sand it smooth with 1000 grit. It scratches with a blade-clean and fine detail and erases really well - I use Createx Illustration colors as well. I have and used Yupo sparingly, I find it hard to work with because you drag your hand across what you have painted and it will scratch off. Can't tape off much on it, overall harder to work with . You can really do some scrapping and earase the hell out of gesso and it is much more forgiving, Of course-this is just what works for me. Good luck to you

 

[Mark Milburn]

Thanks rdawk! I ordered some of the Terra Slate after reading up on it. Using some Gesobord that I have left until it arrives.
Mark