etac efx hok wht comparison your thoughts


Air-Valve Autobot!
just a weasely bit curious iv been using etac now for about 4 months and love it however i also want to start using hok and im wondering if theirs much difference with the white maybe il order some primary's Monday just to mess around with
Make sure you order up more RU311 than paint, Like a gallon of it so you have something to clean your airbrush out with.
Are you asking which will shoot best ? HOK shoots like a dream but White will give you tip dry , So no tip dry is not only a waterbased thang...LOL
well if thats the case il stick to etac i just did the back groun for hot woman and the whole 18x24 panel with not one clog or tip dry. i do want to definatly order some hok candies
for candies, solvent-based is the way to go. With any waterbase, the ink becomes too suscptible to UV fading. Which is why AA now has the "pigment based candy", which is not actually a candy at all. A "candy" paint, is, by definition, dye based. The AA stuff is just their transparent paints mixed with extra transparent base. It's ugly, doesn't look anything like a "candy", and still has problems with UV fading. Useless. lol.

One thing to be aware of, though, is that, if you haven't used solvent-based paints before, you're going to be needing a lot more ventilation, and, at least, an OV rated respirator. Even airbrushing in my full paint booth with over 100fpm of air moving through it, I still wear at least an OV rated respirator, if not my air-supplied respirator. I've heard of people using rigs they've made in their basements and spraying solvent-based paints, but there's no way in hell I'd do it. I even saw one idiot using 2k clear in his BATHROOM, thinking that a bathroom fan is going to move enough air to keep him safe (not to mention all the wonderful chemicals he's leaving for anyone else who lives there).

Anyway, my original point was this- waterbased paints and solvent based paints are two different animals. Yes, solvents spray nice, but you have the toxic fumes, flammability, having to clean your equipment with even nastier chemicals, personal safety equipment, etc, etc.
Comparing EFX to HoK isn't apples to oranges, it's more like nipples to elephants. Both have their place, and both work very well, but doing a complete "vs" scenario would have to take in a ton of different factors, well beyond tip dry and sprayability.
I use both. And yes hok gives more tip dry than etac but your not going to inadvertently scratch the hok. And the tip dry is different than what a water based paint does. You can reduce the hell out of solvents and they spray almost the same. Reduce water based and you get skating and freak dots. So with hok it's layers. Also if you get close with hok you will get sputters more than etac. I like etac for close detail and that's what I use to do my under painting most of the time. Many advantages of water based paints like no need for a gas mask and you can erase overspray. As soon as I'm done I cover it with sg100 intercoat clear because even the airbrush hose rubbing against it will scratch it off. This is hard surfaces I'm referring to.
lol I love th celing fan in the bath room i was thinking a large box fan in the window and covering the floor and walls with shrink wrap (plastic sheets used to cover boats i8 realy wanted to do my treck bicycle with hok candies over metallic base but i think im more Thain likely going to use etac and by the way i was messing around with white the other night and i got hardly a trace of tip dry i just keep a cotton ball handy and wipe the tip periodically really awesome stuff lol now if i could get the time to paint
I take it you mean E-Tac Ps for this and not Edwards FX. I would intercoat with Polyetac or transparent base. I would not advise using any solvent based paint over an water based. I know you can do water based over a solvent, but I would test the final clear to make sure there is no ill side effects. You might even be able to use Auto Air Candies with the E-Tac.

I have cleared efx and ps with 2k clear with no problems but you need to make sure you have no moisture in the paint I like to use a heat gun to make sure it is properly set before clear.
I have cleared efx and ps with 2k clear with no problems but you need to make sure you have no moisture in the paint I like to use a heat gun to make sure it is properly set before clear.

same here. As long as the waterbased paint is dry, you can clear over it with almost anything. I'll use a heat gun to speed up the drying if I need to, but usually if I'm in that big of a hurry, it's because I messed up somewhere along the line.

This is less critical with the automotive waterbased paints (Matrix Aqualusion, PPG Envirobase, etc). With those, once it's dried to where the gloss has evaporated, you're ready to clear.

Also, if you're going to do a complete project in candy (not just some artwork), use a 2k carrier or clear (I know HoK makes one, but I don't remember the name offhand). This will provide significantly more protection against UV fading, and give the paint job better structural integrity. Also, use a clear that has high UV protection. HoK UC-35, X-otic sunbloct clear, and Alsa sunscreen clear are just a few examples. Just don't spray them in your bathroom ;-)