Fire and other questions


Max Chickens


Hey guys got some newbie this is my artwork after about 10 hours of trying fire. It's my first real finished piece so I've got some basic questions to ask.

For anyone that interested I used createx white transparent first(prolly should use opaque but ran out and I want to paint NOW!! Haha) then layers of createx red and yellow mixtures in between going over with white again...on about 30ish PSI with a HP-C Iwata

I think I'm improving a lot but find it hard to get the vibe of the fire, like the flowing forced randomness...if that make sense.

I'd like to be able to try without stencils but I'm just not there yet.

So I have some issues, firstly when I'm painting with pretty much any colour sometimes I'm finding that it will sit well on the paper then after a few seconds it will dissipate a bit, sort of like oil and water (it's more noticeable when spraying over the white) and if I let it dry it sort of all bunches up in one area leave the rest of the section without paint, thinking this might be a result of spraying to close with too much paint on a too high psi? Maybe because its going on too wet?

Here's a pict of what I mean ImageUploadedByTapatalk1352949011.179214.jpg you can see the effect above the "o"

Also if createx is water based why can't I use water to thin it?

Another question what's the difference between the different colours of masking tape? Blue is low tac yellow is stickier...what is green then? What do people use?

Also what thickness paper are people using, those Picts are of 140gsm but it wrinkles a bit...even if i tape it down all round....I might have to up it till 200?

That's about it for now....thanks again for the help guys

Mr Chickens.
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Hey Max i cant give you an answer for all your questions since i also still work to get my fire looking better. As for the problem with the paint i think you really spray it on too wet.
That is a problem i also had when i tried my first fires, the waterbased colors need to be sprayed on in light layers and always air dry it with the gun before you put on the next layer.
Build up your layers untill you reach the saturation you desire. About the paper, the airbrush papers from Schoellerhammer or Harder & Steenebeck that i use are 250gsm. I also have a
170gsm paper that i mostly use for practice stuff and it also works pretty ok, but the special airbrush paper is stiffer and it also is working with masking tape or erasing techniques very good.
I have never used the normal Createx colors, but i think they should be good to reduce them with water only since i often read people are doing that when spraying on paper or shirts.
Thanks bro, yeah ill Definately have an experiment. So many variables!!!
Also if createx is water based why can't I use water to thin it?

As mentioned you can...Any waterbased paint can be reduced with water..The only real issue here is some tend to over reduce it and it can cause binder breakdown, thus you end up with a real grainy looking paint. The reducers are made to reduce this possibility, so even some water and reducer will work well mixed 50/50...If you use tap water and your paint sits around for awhile, be prepared to find little colonies of bacteria growing in it, to avoid this issue, use distilled water if possible, especially if ya paints are gonna sit for awhile

what's the difference between the different colours of masking tape?

This all depends on the brand of tape you use, color isn't always indicative of tack strength..Check the side of the tape as most tapes these days have a little scale on the side stating its tac strength in a 1-5 scale..Some brands may differ with the use of a scale, but above the scale, if it has one, it normally states, low, medium or high..

Also what thickness paper are people using, those Picts are of 140gsm but it wrinkles a bit

Personally I use about a 300 gms cold press watercolor paper..You can stop the wrinkling if your using water color paper, no matter the thickness..this involves wetting the sheet, using the appropriate watercolourist tape to then tape it to your board, then let it dry..Like a canvas this helps stretch the paper taught, when it drys it pulls really tight on the tape and thus reduces wrinkling a great deal, maybe not completely on the thinner paper, but will cause you less issue..You could also consider painting on primed MDF board or illustration board or metal..This doesn't suffer the same probs..

GL and great work on the flames..
Sweet guys thanks for the feedback. Just gonna have to keep practicing I guess! Cheers