Fricking Friskette

[RebelAir]

LOL, HCP, maybe its all about the skill, I'm sure people out there can practice the skill of knowing how dull their blade is getting and adjusting their control withing likely nanometers to ensure the blade never even scratches the surface below..and if your trying to tell me their are peeps who can do this consistently I call bulldust LOL..

Don't really care how respected someone is in any community, if I don't see it with my own eyes especially on a claim like that I call bulldust LOL..Feel free to post a video of it..I have seen lots of old timers do some amazing things but to suggest cutting frisket on a balloon is a good way to practice (Hope you have a lot of balloons blown up) and is comparable to the same feel on metal or indeed paper...Well..

And why would I want to practice with frisket, the point I was making is there are other safer alternatives, not that its a tool you can't use, but one beginners if they actually care about not damaging their work they shouldn't use considering the alternatives..Here you mention a hammer LOL, not the best example as a hammer has a distinct use that few other tools emulate..They hammer in nails...Not much else..And there are few other tools you can use as an alternative, frisket on the other hand has alternatives and is only one choice to do a job that 3-4 other options can do aswell if not better..

And yer no doubt I'm going to also disagree that its no where near as important as the airbrush foundation strokes...Yes its a tool that can be used, its one that comes with risks and yes practice decreases those risks but they are still there, no matter how skilled you become, cutting it of the job is an option, so is using acetate stencils, so is using freehand shields, so is using vinyl cutters...and NONE of those options will cause the same damage risk..

Oh and on the re-laying of it, it depends on how complex the design is, again for simple blockouts it has its uses but for complex designs it cant be detacked to the perfect point of knowing it will stay down when you pass over from an angle, often it will create double lines on complex designs due to this, and if you do have to move a quite complex cut with fine lines and details involved, good luck...

So yes I will definately tell people to stay away from it, just like I would a hammer if everysecond hit you were near garanteed to miss and damage your finger..The thing is with a hammer it is a learnt skill, frisket cutting can be hit and miss no matter how much you have practiced and if peeps want to take that chance...Use frisket..

14 odd years into painting and still manage to paint without it, did in the early days and then found their were easier ways for 90% of my needs, on lettering I still would recommned it, on base level layers-Yer why not but..You make it sound like no-one can airbrush without the stuff LOL...and I hate to tell you..They do and can

The beauty of any hobby or skill is most thoughts are only suggestions, mine are the same and I have no doubt many would scoff and say get me my frisket LOL, but beginners I feel have enough on their plate and likely adding frisket to the mix will only frustrate or in worse cases I have seen they become reliant on it and everything begins to look stencilled, but thats again a personal thing, if it works for you thats great..But my opinion on it won't ever change, even if I see a dude cutting it on a balloon LOL...

Maybe we have one of those agree to disagree moments LOL...

 

[bentoad]

I use colorless masking fluid. from hobby lobby. It is a rubber based and you just tack the corners and the parts that pop up. It rolls off like sticky rubber when you are done. you can use a clean finger or a clean eraser and roll it off. I hate frisket it aways ruins the surface.Don't put this adhesive over the whole piece just the corners that stick up and spray over the piece and not toward it or the paint will spray under it. Do a test piece. I learned this a long time ago when I was painting real air planes and used this on the logo templates. bentoad

 

[HCP-draggin]

LOL, HCP, maybe its all about the skill, I'm sure people out there can practice the skill of knowing how dull their blade is getting and adjusting their control withing likely nanometers to ensure the blade never even scratches the surface below..and if your trying to tell me their are peeps who can do this consistently I call bulldust LOL..

Don't really care how respected someone is in any community, if I don't see it with my own eyes especially on a claim like that I call bulldust LOL..Feel free to post a video of it..I have seen lots of old timers do some amazing things but to suggest cutting frisket on a balloon is a good way to practice (Hope you have a lot of balloons blown up) and is comparable to the same feel on metal or indeed paper...Well..

And why would I want to practice with frisket, the point I was making is there are other safer alternatives, not that its a tool you can't use, but one beginners if they actually care about not damaging their work they shouldn't use considering the alternatives..Here you mention a hammer LOL, not the best example as a hammer has a distinct use that few other tools emulate..They hammer in nails...Not much else..And there are few other tools you can use as an alternative, frisket on the other hand has alternatives and is only one choice to do a job that 3-4 other options can do aswell if not better..

And yer no doubt I'm going to also disagree that its no where near as important as the airbrush foundation strokes...Yes its a tool that can be used, its one that comes with risks and yes practice decreases those risks but they are still there, no matter how skilled you become, cutting it of the job is an option, so is using acetate stencils, so is using freehand shields, so is using vinyl cutters...and NONE of those options will cause the same damage risk..

Oh and on the re-laying of it, it depends on how complex the design is, again for simple blockouts it has its uses but for complex designs it cant be detacked to the perfect point of knowing it will stay down when you pass over from an angle, often it will create double lines on complex designs due to this, and if you do have to move a quite complex cut with fine lines and details involved, good luck...

So yes I will definately tell people to stay away from it, just like I would a hammer if everysecond hit you were near garanteed to miss and damage your finger..The thing is with a hammer it is a learnt skill, frisket cutting can be hit and miss no matter how much you have practiced and if peeps want to take that chance...Use frisket..

14 odd years into painting and still manage to paint without it, did in the early days and then found their were easier ways for 90% of my needs, on lettering I still would recommned it, on base level layers-Yer why not but..You make it sound like no-one can airbrush without the stuff LOL...and I hate to tell you..They do and can

The beauty of any hobby or skill is most thoughts are only suggestions, mine are the same and I have no doubt many would scoff and say get me my frisket LOL, but beginners I feel have enough on their plate and likely adding frisket to the mix will only frustrate or in worse cases I have seen they become reliant on it and everything begins to look stencilled, but thats again a personal thing, if it works for you thats great..But my opinion on it won't ever change, even if I see a dude cutting it on a balloon LOL...

Maybe we have one of those agree to disagree moments LOL...

My suggestion to you would be this- if you are getting good results without it, then don't use it.

For everyone else, I'd suggest learning how to work with it so you can fully utilize the tool. You don't need balloons to do it, either. Freehand shields, plotter-cut masking, liquid frisket, etc, etc all are things that learning to work with them will improve your airbrushing. Even (or especially) when it's frustrating.

 

[AndreZA]

In the beginning I thought frisket was the be all and end all to good airbrushing. I'm now painting 99% without it. But I was trained to cut paper application tape on banners. If you went too far you would cut right through. a good way to practice is to stick it on normal typing paper. If you don't cut through there, the chances that you would damage another surface is slim.

 

[beanpoleuk]

I tend to use post-it notes, stick the sticky edge on the surface, you can then juat about see through to trace your cut lines, remove cut and stick back into place.

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

 

[Oddball]

I tend to use post-it notes, stick the sticky edge on the surface, you can then juat about see through to trace your cut lines, remove cut and stick back into place.

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

I going to give that one a try, sounds good

 

[WhiteKnight]

After using paper with spay on low tack adhesive, frisket, vinyl I have settled on transfer paper, it is low tack paper for transferring vinyl mostly for signs and stickers, but I found that on canvas and paper does a nice job. Note I never cut directly on my work, either I pre-cut it with my plotter, or trace and cut on a cutting board.

Hope it helps.

P.S. had to use Goo Gone on a painting for residue from vinyl, use it on a Q-Tip worked well, make sure the paint is cured first, and go over with a wax and grease remover afterward and you should be fine.

 

[airbrushtutor]

I never used to use frisked, but I've since learnt there's more than one way of doing things and I find frisket a life saver at times.
I've only used one frisket and it's awesome. It's the brand Marissa and Carlo sell through foxy art studio. GMI? It's a German brand and works just like frisket should.

 

[HCP-draggin]

I'm going to have to try to track some of that stuff down. The frisket available in the States varies from bad to worse. It's still usable, but it can definitely be difficult.

 

[AndreZA]

I never used to use frisked, but I've since learnt there's more than one way of doing things and I find frisket a life saver at times.
I've only used one frisket and it's awesome. It's the brand Marissa and Carlo sell through foxy art studio. GMI? It's a German brand and works just like frisket should.

AMI. It stands for Artists Material International. One bad ass art supply joint.

 

[RebelAir]

I do agree that frisket is a very useful tool (long rant aside LOL), just for me its more important for beginners to learn how to control their airbrush and learn how to paint first because (And damage aside) frisket requires particular techniques that needs understanding of how to best take advantage of it for a hard edge here or there and knowing when to use it requires that base painting knowledge, unfortuantly overusing it can make it look just like a stencil and that's likely why I stopped using it, more so than the damage it can cause and I did actually once upon a time be pretty good at cutting it on a surface LOL, but still ****** it up occasionally or lost a base layer or two LOL..These days I just find a template hard edge just as useful..

Out of interest has anyone ever used a plotter to cut a design on some?

 

[Nada]

I'm going to have to try to track some of that stuff down. The frisket available in the States varies from bad to worse. It's still usable, but it can definitely be difficult.

I don't use Frisket because I am pretty darn lazy.. However occasionally I mask some stuff off and decided to try something...
Glad Press and seal... Cheaper less tack, stays put and will not stick until you press down on it. It cuts pretty easy as well.

 

[WhiteKnight]

Out of interest has anyone ever used a plotter to cut a design on some?

Yes I did using my Silhouette Cameo cutter, worked well

 

[Madbrush]

Out of interest has anyone ever used a plotter to cut a design on some?

I tried to cut the stuff once and completely lost the plot, but I don't think that's what you meant,

I bought a 25 meter roll of the brand name frisket 2 years ago, there is 24.6 meters still on the roll and it will stay that way, some say if you stick it to your clothes first it will come off easier, well even after sticking it to the neighbours moulting dog (which is still bald to this day) I successfully removed 8 layers of paint and had a beautiful clean white surface to start something new on.

Frisket and my patience is unfortunately a lethal combination, so I stay away from the stuff and if I need to some freehand shielding and/or low tack masking tape where applicable, I'm now saying no one should use, but I personally refuse to take the time trying to get used to it.

 

[HCP-draggin]

I tried to cut the stuff once and completely lost the plot, but I don't think that's what you meant,

I bought a 25 meter roll of the brand name frisket 2 years ago, there is 24.6 meters still on the roll and it will stay that way, some say if you stick it to your clothes first it will come off easier, well even after sticking it to the neighbours moulting dog (which is still bald to this day) I successfully removed 8 layers of paint and had a beautiful clean white surface to start something new on.

Frisket and my patience is unfortunately a lethal combination, so I stay away from the stuff and if I need to some freehand shielding and/or low tack masking tape where applicable, I'm now saying no one should use, but I personally refuse to take the time trying to get used to it.

LMAO. Poor dog. I just use the inside of my arm, so it picks up some dead skin cells and whatnot, but not so much hair.

USUALLY, if the frisket picks up paint, it's because you were layering the paint too thick, and it didn't "cure" right, so the adhesion wasn't as good as it normally is. At least that's what I've gathered from fixing God-knows how many projects after paint peeled up with the frisket. Sometimes, however, it's just really bad frisket.