Getting black really dark

[Pascal-A]

Hi,
I just started with airbrushing. It's difficult when you just start with this technique but it's also awesome.
Something I can't achieve so far is getting my black really black.
The darkest I can make is what I call 'dirty transparant'.
Is it possible to get it as dark as an alcohol marker? Really opaque?
The paint I use now is:
Com art opaque black.

 

[DaveG]

Com-art is not the blackest black I can think of. A lot will depend on the surface you are painting on. On a very absorbent surface it will look like a gray-ish, for sure. It helps a lot if the final piece is clear coated, especially with a stain or gloss clear, as it will blacken right up.

 

[Pascal-A]

I used drawing paper 250 grams.
Is there a brand of ink you can advice?

 

[huskystafford]

wicked jet black?

 

[DaveG]

I have a love/hate relationship with Createx products, so tend to shy away from recommending them to a complete beginner. They have a learning curve all their own, on top of trying to figure out an airbrush.

For ease of use, the Com-art is a good choice. I would also say, perhaps E'tac, as it is very good straight from the bottle, or even with a little water for reduction. I will also warn ahead of time, that both black and white can be tough colors to work with. They tend to have higher pigment loads, and larger pigment grains to opaqueness, which in turn makes them harder to spray. In certain pint lines, there will also be colos that tend to be a challenge - but, you will discover those in time.

 

[huskystafford]

no Wicked Jet Black for you then Pascal-A

 

[DaveG]

I really should say, don't be afraid to try anything, and everything you can get your hands on . It is really difficult to tell from one person to another, what they will get along with. Only through trial and error will one really find what works best for them, in their individual circumstances.

 

[markjthomson]

I use Golden High Flow. I add a drop or two of blue to it to make it "blacker". The points they make about the substrate ae important. It may also be that you will find an opaque does a better job than the transparent.

 

[erwin de pan]

Airbrush is working in layers. Certainly on paper it is normal to cross the same line several times to get it dark enough.
Here is an example same paint (colden) same thinner. the dark parts are multiple layers. and on his back is 1 layer.

 

[Pascal-A]

@DaveG
The black and white are different and much harder to use than the other colors indeed.
If I use black for example, airbrushing from a bigger distance works a little bit but result in light greay.
I can layer indeed but I'm afraid that it will wrinkle the paper (250 grams drawing paper).
Airbrushing close makes a stain. See pictures. I don't know how to draw fine lines or dots with black.
Is there a special technique for?
I will go to the local drawing store to see what paint they have.

Another question: can I pour airbrush ink in the sink?

 

[huskystafford]

I will leave this just in case

Second video has the info you need I think.

 

[DaveG]

Here, I just ran into my studio and did a quick test spray - just for you to see what you could/should be seeing. I used Com-art Opaque black straight from the bottle. Even though my Eclipse HP-BS looks a little different, it uses all the same business parts as a normal Eclipse. I have my compressor set for @35psi, but do have a MAC valve on my hose that is closed a little - so, maybe 25psi at the brush. The paper is 60lb (@90gsm) copy paper.

This black, while being more towards a gray shade, is at least very dark. If I spent more than just a few moments, I could add water, or flow enhancer to the cup, and get a decent flow from the brush fairly quickly - but, I wanted you to see what you should be seeing right from the bottle, and right from the brush.



It looks to me like your paint is separated. Did you shake the bottle really well? There is an agitator ball in the bottle, and you should be able to hear it rattle. If it is not rattling, you may need to stick the back end of a paint brush into the bottle, and stir a bit to break it up. On rare occasion I have had a bottle or two of Com-art polymerize, and separate into component parts that would not reincorporate no matter how much stirring or shaking was done. The only option there is to replace with a fresh bottle.

 

[Pascal-A]

Oh... I didn't knew you had to shake the bottle.
Thank you for the tip I'm gonna try that

 

[Pascal-A]

Now it's real black. Thank you for all the help.

 

[markjthomson]

Now it's real black. Thank you for all the help.

View attachment 65562

I think that should be filed under the "Read the manual" - or in this case the instructions on the paint? Glade to get the problem solved!

 

[Pascal-A]

I didn't read anything about it, but there was a folder with it that explained how great the paint is
Maybe in the super small text on the bottle that I couldn't read
I have also these two questions:
- Where do I leave the paint-water-cleaner from the bottle? I'm not sure if I can't trow it away just like that because there's paint in it.
- When I make a gradient, I can make it smooth first, but just a extremely small pull more on the lever of the airbrush pistol gives it much more paint.
Can I adjust this with the presure of the compressor to make the lever less sensitive or in another way?
I place an example of a drawing I made. On the chin of the face you can see the gradient is completely messed up with too much paint that sudenly came from the airbrush pistol.