Getting Frustrated

D

Darmatwil

Guest
I do not know what is going on with me and white. I am using Createx Detail white. I have tried many different reductions. I have gotten trans base to add to it. I have fiddled with the air pressure and I keep having the same thing happen. The first two or three passes are fine and the it goes square to crap. I get uneven spray patterns, sometimes there is a spurt of paint at the end of a dagger stroke making it look like a lion tail. It will quit spraying all together. The tip dry is ridiculous, but I can take care of that quickly. I am wits end.o_O I am doing my final painting for the semester and am about to throw the white down the toilet. All of my pieces so far I have dealt with this but I need this one to be better.

I start with a black base for the space background. I want the white for the high contrast of nebula gasses. I an beginning to think about building colors up in layers but fear that they won't be bright enough going over the black base alone. I want to keep a consistency with vibrant colors but have no time to order more paint or relearn something.

It is just so frustrating. Things start great and go down hill immediately. I have gone as far as a total tear down and cleaning. I still get the same crap happening with the detail white. I am beginning to feel like I have been peeing up a rope.:confused:
 
I personally hate Wicked, but some people love it. I'd suggest trying Createx Illustration White, it's one of the best spraying White water based paints out there.

What are you using for reducer?
4012 should help with Wicked.
 
I just noticed something weird. I mix in the spray cup. Iwata HP-CS. I put the reducer in first, Createx High Performance Reducer, then the paint. I noticed that the paint went right to the bottom of the cup and looked kind of like the stuff in a lava lamp down there. This time I put 15 drops of reducer, 5 drops of white, and 5 drops of trans base. I sprayed at 20 working psi. Once again I get a sporadic spray, and that lion tail thing at the end of the stroke. I keep the air on throughout the stroke also.
 
I'm trying visualise what exactly it is you hare having trouble with.
The best advice I can give anyone when problem solving is don't alter too many things at once or you won't know what fixed the problem.
You are saying the paint is sinking through the reducer in the cup, that is normal, to mix it just do a gentle back flush. with the needle cover on, hold a finger over the end and with the air on gently pull back on the air, that will mix the paint.
For what reason are you adding the Transparent base? If you want a transparent paint you really need to use a transparent paint. Above you say you used 15 drops Reducer and 5 paint and 5 Trans base, this will be the same as 15 reducer and 10 paint thickness wise.
Your "Lion tail" sound like a dirty nozzle - you need to have a scrupulously clean brush at all time and the cleaning can't be skimped on. it's relatively easy to keep a clean brush clean but once you start getting miniscule amounts of dried paint in the nozzle it will cause all sorts of problems.
Hope this helps a little.
 
Would it hurt to soak the nozzle overnight in airbrush cleaner? I didn't think there was any seals in that part of the brush.
 
Hi Darmatwil, you should be ok with the nozzle, as for the paint like oddball said why the trans base? But anyway I wouldn't use that personally. Try with out the trans base first and go 1 paint to 5 thinners see how it sprays, try with different reductions if that isnt suitable. Failing that, have you tried filtering the paint? It may look fine but any lumps bigger than a flies nut will build up and start to block your nozzle. I had this problem with some trident. Drove me mad for a week... Filtered the paint twice and the problem went away. Just a thought..

Lee
 
White paint, and black for that matter - virtually doesn't matter who's brand it is, is going to be a pain in the butt.
There are many who've gone before and were much better qualified to explain it all, but basically it's 2 things.
Pigment size of the colour and how much you reduce it.
No matter what, you'll get tip dry.
There are methods to reduce it, and some work better than others.
We all deal with it in our own way.
As for the splatting etc, sounds a lot like a paint flake in the nozzle.
Soaking it won't hurt, as it has teflon bushes.
 
Wicked white is super super thick, I use the detail white same thing. Here is whzt I have to do.

Strain the paint period you cant go straight from thebottle, a hard learned lesson for me co ing from com art.
I use a small paint brush and stir In my cup, then shake and for good measure I backflush mix, I restir every couple of minutes painting.
Im starting to come to grips with wicked, but it is certainly not as friendly as illustration, com art or golden.
 
I use my Iwata HP-BCS 0.5 for 95% of my paintings and have no problems at all. Not even excessive tip dry.
 
With the High performance reducer, you need to mix it with the paint, then wait 5 min and mix again.
I would also lose the trans base and try again.....
Good luck
 
It could be the paint is just not mixed enough resulting in altering blobs of nearly unreduced paint and reducer. Maybe try mixing it with a pipette. I always use that when adding transparant base as that seems to take some "violence" to mix properly with paint.

It has been mentioned before but I'd give createx illustration white a shot. I tried nearly everywhite that I ould get my hands on and it by far outpreforms all the other whites I o far tried.
 
Could be compleatly off topic, but I use a lot of Molotow white "All4one." it's the best white I know and it must be thinned with water. But on the instruction it say you can use up to 2 pct. Acetone ; don't know why or what that should help, but in the shop they then say it can be mixed with Acetone. Trouble is that sure you can, but if you mix more than 3 pct. it act exactly as how you describe a Lava lamp. The paint thicken seriously and gets useless. It's like it start to harden. Molotow White "One4All are an acrylic, quite heavy pigmented but can be mixed with other Molotow acrylic Ink othervise used for huge felt pens. --- Could that be what is happening, that one of your reducers are not for that type of paint and start a chemical reaction making the paint thicken ? Your problems seem like that.
 
being i use very lil amounts of paint i use these to mix then strain from dropper to cup20150418_084801_resized.jpg they were very cheap at Michaels store
 
I let reducer and paint sit together in harmony for about 10 min mixing or stirring every couple minutes then I spray..seems to help but no matter what I've done its a bugger to spray even with a larger nozzle setup. I almost never use the Wicked detail white anymore for that reason. Usually Com-art and soon hopefully try the CI line. Good luck.
 
I soaked the nozzle overnight. I have also tried without the trans base. Apparently the soaking was a good idea. I just ran a bit of detail white reduced 3:1 and it was great! I thought I had that bugger clean. I guess airbrush clean is as clean as surgical clean. I am going to try again and hope to have good results again.:)
 
I use wicked detail with a .2 setup at around 1:10 paint:reducer. ~15psi. I still get tip dry but not as often. It seems to work well. And yes, surgical clean is what's needed. I posted awhile ago about when thinking it's clean do it again. The resulting cr@p that was removed was amazing!
 
Oddball said:
I'm trying visualise what exactly it is you hare having trouble with.
The best advice I can give anyone when problem solving is don't alter too many things at once or you won't know what fixed the problem.
You are saying the paint is sinking through the reducer in the cup, that is normal, to mix it just do a gentle back flush. with the needle cover on, hold a finger over the end and with the air on gently pull back on the air, that will mix the paint.
For what reason are you adding the Transparent base? If you want a transparent paint you really need to use a transparent paint. Above you say you used 15 drops Reducer and 5 paint and 5 Trans base, this will be the same as 15 reducer and 10 paint thickness wise.
Your "Lion tail" sound like a dirty nozzle - you need to have a scrupulously clean brush at all time and the cleaning can't be skimped on. it's relatively easy to keep a clean brush clean but once you start getting miniscule amounts of dried paint in the nozzle it will cause all sorts of problems.
Hope this helps a little.
Click to expand...
Well surprize surprize! Just like I said in my earlier post :whistling:
 
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