Any tips on tip dry problems with golden fluid? I'm testing titanium white and it is tip drying like crazy right now.. even with my stash of chemicals and bases.
Yes I have a tip for you. Though I primarily use Wicked these days, I use Golden quite a bit, and still have bottles from back when they made airbrush specific paint, before the 'high flow' era. Both golden high flow and the older airbrush colors, like any acrylic based paint, will suffer from tip dry, with white of course being the worst. However, you can really, really improve things with either the golden liquid retarder, a drop of glycerin (if you are on a budget) or as I have recently discovered, using the liquitex flow improver. Seriously, that Liquitex stuff is magic for reducing tip try and improving flow in any acrylic based paint.
Golden has a "wetting agent" in their new line which is their answer to flow improver, but to be honest, it didn't perform any better than my homemade flow improver made with glycerin. The Liquitex flow improver, even though it is from a different manufacturer really helps with golden. Tip dry is next to gone, even with white, and the open time of the paint (for erasing or texture techniques) ups to about 15 minutes instead of less than 5.
The flow improver is diluted 20 parts to 1 with water, and you only need a drop in your cup, so a small bottle will last you virtually forever, and it is pretty cheap.
All acrylic paints will suffer from tip dry over time, but properly polishing your needle, and using a wetting agent or flow improver will really, really help. Using the Liquitex stuff, I have been able to paint indefinitely with golden white without needing to pinch my needle, and up to 40 minutes with Wicked Detail White, which despite amazing sprayability, is a freakin' nightmare for tip dry. Golden works with the liquitex improver, so maybe pick up a bottle.
Also, one other tip... If you are comfortable with it, consider polishing your needle. When I get a new needle, the factory finish is a bit rough, allowing pigment to bind and build up easier. I take mine to a dremmel with a buffing / jewelry polishing tip, a dab of Silvo or other fine polish, and very carefully work the needle until it has a mirror polish. Usually it only takes a minute or so.
If you do this, be very, very, very careful and wear protection as you can damage the needle, or worse, yourself if you lose control and send the needle across the room or kick it back up into your face. Go gentle and slow, and remember to rotate the needle as you buff. You can probably also do it with a paper towel and some polish, but take care not to stab your fingers while doing this. Those needles are sharp and very, very ouchy if they go into your poor thumb. Trust me on this.
After wiping the needle down to remove any polish compound, I usually follow up by using a drop of glycerin on my finger tips, and running the needle thru it, wiping off any excess. The glycerin helps keep the needle free of buildup, but only lasts a little while.
With a properly polished needle, tip dry is a lot less of a problem. It just takes a bit of elbow grease to get there.
Look into the flow improver - it's not the same as thinner. It changes the chemistry of the paint by reducing surface tension, making it significantly less likely to build up on your needle.