Golden high flow tip dry

Justin Sane

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Hey forum!
So I recently bought a bunch of golden high flow paint, and it seems like it has really bad tip dry. Like every five seconds kind of thing. I am really struggling with white, as per usual, it dries the fastest out of all the colors.

I run it around 20 to 30 depending on how thick it is, but the pressure doesn't seem to make a difference. I also have tried the retarder without much of a noticeable effect. My wicked detail white flows really well in comparison, but I have three bottles of golden white I'd like to use up before switching back to comart or continuing with wicked brand.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

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Just use the wicked reducer 4012 , or add alcohol into the water and use that as a reducer.
I run golden through my micron daily with little tip dry , White is white I get the most tip dry using urethane vs waterbase with white.
 
Thanks, mr. Micron! I didn't know the 4012 was compatible. I'll try it out tonight and see how she flows! I live in upstate NY and I'm wondering if the humidity is an issue that will need to address.

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Thanks, mr. Micron! I didn't know the 4012 was compatible. I'll try it out tonight and see how she flows! I live in upstate NY and I'm wondering if the humidity is an issue that will need to address.

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LOL humidity for the past 2 weeks and according to the weather man here in good old wet Indiana we have 100% humidity due to it has rained every day at least for an hour for the next two weeks (makes trying to keep up on lawn mowing a real pain) . I paint out in my un-AC garage so you should be fine . The retarder from Golden I am not a fan of.
Golden through a .35 or larger I almost never reduce and hardly get tip dry at 35 psi.
my Micron I have to reduce .18 set up mainly to get the best flow and only get tip dry on white and the shadow gray but I may have to clean the tip every couple of minutes.
But yes I have use both the 4012 and the 4020 reducers and have mixed golden high flow into the createx clear base and the 4030 balancing clear without issue.
 
Looks like Mr M has you covered. Reducing a little was going to be my suggestion too, so let us know how that works out for you.


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Sadly, reducing didn't do the trick...but I struggled with both golden and wicked white yesterday. I'm running it through a .2 and .3, sometimes through .18. I'll keep playing with reductions and pressure. Thanks Micron for your help, it does good to know what pressure and needle setup you're using. I agree with you about the retarder, seems like throwing away money, as I see no difference with it or without.

What do use if not white, Markj?

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I've got that issue when I use Com-Art, sometimes little debris of paint in the bottle pass to the airbrush and they get stuck in the nozzle and looks like TD issue, I found one day, that none of my brushes wanted to work for more than 10 sec, I cleaned them and found a lot of little debris even when I filter my paints. May be your case


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Hmm, that's strange, comart is the only brand I've never really had an issue with! It's really interesting how it's all so individual. But I do think you've a point, and I'm going to start straining my paint like I should be.

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Hmm, that's strange, comart is the only brand I've never really had an issue with! It's really interesting how it's all so individual. But I do think you've a point, and I'm going to start straining my paint like I should be.

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I guess it has to be with the weather, My ComArt paints has a lot of dry paint in the bottle and I even put them in glass bottles with good sealing but they dry inside anyways. Don’t have that issue with any other brand (Schmincke, liquitex, Javana, etc) only with comart!!


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Comart does dry out even in glass mainly due to glass will hold heat more then the plastic bottles they come in. but I had an un-opened bottle of comart still with the factory seal dry out .
I am working on a piece right now that is pretty much all white and I am using Golden high flow white . Painted about an hour last night and might have had to clean tip dry every 10 to 15 minutes. Spraying through my micron .18 set up at about 15 PSI. But I used 1 drop of paint to about 10 drops of the 4012 reducer and let it sit for about 10 minutes before using ( suggesting on letting it sit came from watching a Gerald Mendez live feed)

I do per reduce my paint then run it through a filter as I put it in the cup. mainly to catch any dried paint that may be hiding under the cap or in the neck of the bottle.
 
so here is a start on a new piece all did with golden high flow white . I did pay close attention to my mixture on this one.1 drop GHF white,10 drops 4012 and 5 drops 4020 spraying pressure was 15 PSI (reading at airbrush connection) about an hour in on it.
IMG_2406.JPG
as far as tip dry I had to clean off the needle 4 times in the hour I spent painting.
Temps today was 81 with 89% humidity according to the digital read out on the gauge I have sitting in my garage.
 
so here is a start on a new piece all did with golden high flow white . I did pay close attention to my mixture on this one.1 drop GHF white,10 drops 4012 and 5 drops 4020 spraying pressure was 15 PSI (reading at airbrush connection) about an hour in on it.
View attachment 59574
as far as tip dry I had to clean off the needle 4 times in the hour I spent painting.
Temps today was 81 with 89% humidity according to the digital read out on the gauge I have sitting in my garage.
Wow, that's looking really good! I'm wondering if I'm not reducing it enough...for instance, I am working on a dragon standing on a rock ledge, and while using burnt umber from createx illustration line, I had an even worse issue with tip dry, and sputtering. I am using a .18 micron, .2 and a .3 mainly. Small nozzle sizes, which don't make it easier. I don't mind cleaning the needle, but it happens within Seco ds, and so painting has become really frustrating with anything that isn't a comart paint for me. Aztec sprays well, flow wise, but I don't prefer it as I stated in other threads. Looks to me like I'll have to take some scrap paper and just play with different reductions and pressures.

The reason I don't reduce too much is illustration is said to be sprayed from the bottle, but maybe I'm just over thinking it.

That being said, I have been straining the burnt umber, and as with the white no change. This is the reason I'd love to learn from a practiced artist first hand. The forum and the members here are great, but there is just no substitute for first hand knowledge demonstrated right before your eyes. The painting looks great so far Mr. Micron! I'll play with over reduction tonight and will see if that will help. Thanks for all the tips, you have made painting so much more enjoyable for me recently.

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Wow, that's looking really good! I'm wondering if I'm not reducing it enough...for instance, I am working on a dragon standing on a rock ledge, and while using burnt umber from createx illustration line, I had an even worse issue with tip dry, and sputtering. I am using a .18 micron, .2 and a .3 mainly. Small nozzle sizes, which don't make it easier. I don't mind cleaning the needle, but it happens within Seco ds, and so painting has become really frustrating with anything that isn't a comart paint for me. Aztec sprays well, flow wise, but I don't prefer it as I stated in other threads. Looks to me like I'll have to take some scrap paper and just play with different reductions and pressures.

The reason I don't reduce too much is illustration is said to be sprayed from the bottle, but maybe I'm just over thinking it.

That being said, I have been straining the burnt umber, and as with the white no change. This is the reason I'd love to learn from a practiced artist first hand. The forum and the members here are great, but there is just no substitute for first hand knowledge demonstrated right before your eyes. The painting looks great so far Mr. Micron! I'll play with over reduction tonight and will see if that will help. Thanks for all the tips, you have made painting so much more enjoyable for me recently.

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“Can be sprayed from the bottle” is to be taken as “Some will happily use it sprayed from the bottle, others will need to reduce a little bit, others may reduce it a lot”. Reducing is so different from one user to another, one colour to another and one application to another. It can seem a bit disheartening, but it does begin to make sense and become easier.
Often when people are struggling with a paint, it needs either higher pressure or more reducer.
I’ve found that Createx Illustration White flows nicely for me through a .23 Nozzle at around 18psi reduces approx 1 drop of paint to 4 drops of reducer. (Sometimes 3 reducer, other times 5), but usually around there.


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As SiRoxx said, can be spayed without reduction, but you will have to turn up your pressure to be able to do detail work, when you reduce the paint you can work at lower pressure, being more easy to do detail work, you can see Jay Ferguson do amazing detail with a 0.3 needle and liquitex without reduction at 50 PSI!! in an A4 sheet, but that requires a lot of practice to get that kind of control!! all depends of your finger control and preference of work
I setup the pressure I want, put some reducer in the cup and the I add drops of paint until I get the desired paint flow at the movement of the trigger I want! HTH


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@Mr. Micron

I tried using a 20 to 5 or 5 to one ratio with the burnt umber, mixed outside the cup, strained and set my compressor to 15, and BOOM, I test sprayed an entire cup and no tip dry! Thank you so much, and to the others who just posted, I think I will take those tips as well. I've been setting my pressure from 25 to 30, and then I mix about 1 to 1 up to around 3 to 1, but I guess I just wasn't hitting the sweet spot, so thank you for giving me a great starting point to go from here. I'm really excited to start slinging paint again! The frustration was really getting to me, so I appreciate this more than you know.



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Now my only issue is control, I keep over working the test page, and it gets this spotted kind of look, hard to describe. Is their a term for what I'm talking about, or am I being too vague?

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Now my only issue is control, I keep over working the test page, and it gets this spotted kind of look, hard to describe. Is their a term for what I'm talking about, or am I being too vague?

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It kind of looks like orange peel when you mess up a finish woodworking.

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