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Grafo T2 airbrush

Discussion in 'Airbrushes' started by DaveG, Nov 14, 2020.


  1. DaveG

    DaveG Airbush Analyst Very Likeable!

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    These don't get talked about very often, so I thought I would drop a little info here for anyone that may be curious. Grafo is a German brand, which is now also part of the Harder and Steenbeck family of brushes. The originals date back to pre-WW2, and have been updated to take advantage of some of the precision found in the other Harder and Steenbeck brushes. The finishes, fit, and attention to detail are superb, throughout. With their roots in the past, the trigger is a fixed double action affair, just like those found on many of the other German brands from the past, such as Efbe, Prinze, Heikel, and Gabbert (as examples). This means there is no pressing down on the trigger - just pulling it back. The very fist part of the rearward movement initiates airflow. Continued rearward movement will then initiate needle movement, and paint flow. Once you get passed the fact you don't have to press down for air, the trigger feel can be really nice. I usually have to get a finger cramp from trying to mash the trigger down, before I remember there is no need to - before I relax, and just work the trigger back and forth. They can be among the lightest triggers out there...

    Needles and nozzles are exactly like those from the Harder and Steenbeck Infinity, and are completely interchangeable.

    I had missed out on a deal for a Grafo T2 (side feed), so in order to add one to my collection, I purchased a brand new one from Spraygunner.com. The T2 has a screw on side cup feed tube, which in turn takes twist on color cups. 4 cups come with the brush. It is a cool setup, but does not really fit my particular work style well, so I made an adapter to allow the use of regular Iwata or Aztek color cups. It simply screws into the side feed port, and is sized to accept the stem of an Iwata color cup.
    Grafo t2.jpg
    Grafo t2-2.jpg

    I already had a Grafo T1 (samll gravity feed cup) in my collection, which I took out to play with alongside the new T2. After much experimentation, and testing, I decided on leaving the T2 set up with a .2 needle and nozzle finished off with the crown cap detail aircap from an Infinity. I changed out the older v1 needle in the T1 for a v2, and have it setup as a .15 - also finished off with the Infinity crown cap setup. Atomization is super smooth, and the potential for fine detail out of these brushes is fantastic. I don't always feel like I can get the best out of an Infinity, but feel like I could use one of these all day long without issue. I am a fan, for sure.

    Grafo t2-4.jpg
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
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  2. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I like them. I have that old one that wirks the same, strangely i dont mind the trigger action and find it quite easy to use. Mine feels like a massive setup and really spits the paint out but works nicely. May have to take another look at it.

    Lee
  3. Electric Cat Dude

    Electric Cat Dude Gravity Guru

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    The H & S line is probably the most beautiful of airbrushes. Looks like a piece of jewelry that sprays paint. Maybe one of these days I’ll buy a Grafo for a collection or just to try out. The nozzle and needle design tends to be more susceptible to tip buildup than other brands like Iwata, especially when doing fine detail. I find I have to work with a small cotton ball soaked in cleaner and periodically dab the needle tip into it to remove paint build up to ensure uniform spray qualities and control when doing fine lines.
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  4. DaveG

    DaveG Airbush Analyst Very Likeable!

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    Not sure if you are using the V2 needles. If not, you should give them a go - I much prefer the V2 needle over the originals. I have no real issues with tip dry using E'tac, Com-art, or Golden High Flow- certainly no more than any other brush I use. Createx, well, I get tip dry while spraying in a glass of water ;).
  5. Electric Cat Dude

    Electric Cat Dude Gravity Guru

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    Yeah I’m not sure what the difference is between V1 and V2 needles. I’m currently using a H&S part #127920 0.15mm needle in the brush. Actually I replaced the original needle in the brush with that since I banged up the original needle a little bit. And come to think of it the new needle has less tip dry issues with it. I do use Com-Art paints with it and so far they seem to perform the best of all the pre-fab airbrush acrylic paints I’ve used. They do still require some Windsor & Newton flow improver at about a 4:1 paint / improver ratio for best results.
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  6. DaveG

    DaveG Airbush Analyst Very Likeable!

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    The simplest way to differentiate the V1 and V2 needles is the back of the needle. The V2 needles are contoured to help identify the needle. One ring is the .15, 2 rings is the .2, etc... (from the top - V2 .2, V2 .15, and the bottom one is a V1 .15)

    V2-needles1.jpg


    The V1 and V2 needles are completely different. They are ground from a different alloy. The tips have been changed from a straight taper to a double angle (arrow). V2 on the top, V1 on the bottom - the tips are tougher than they used to be, and less prone to bending. Tip dry has been reduced through alteration of the included angles.

    V2-needles2.jpg
  7. Electric Cat Dude

    Electric Cat Dude Gravity Guru

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    In that case, yes I am using a V2 0.15mm needle in the airbrush. Thanks for the info!

    Attached Files:

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  8. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    The .15 needles work quite well in the aerographs, I tried one a few years back and if they have fixed the chocolate needle issue then they will be even better.
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